argytar

Did some more work today. I sanded the body and started applying shellac sealer. I put together a template to cut for the control cavity cover. I liked how it came about. I cut a piece of plexiglass and shaped it to fit . I also drilled it and used the countersunk bit for the screws.

I ordered the steinberger tuners which are supposed to be lighter so as to avoid neck dive. The positioning of the B5 will help too I believe.

The special is a Korina one-piece build with a Madagascar rosewood board. The sustain is insane and it also pops like a strat on steroids! That came out pretty light too like 3.25 kilos! I expect the firebird to be 2.7 Kilos WITH the B5 Bigsby!

This one is an old piece of Obeche or Ayouz very light and dry. Very soft too I would say it is something between basswood and Korina when you work on it.

Thank you very much!! This is actually my third one-piece build!! My first one was Eaperanza and was featured as a contestant in guitar of the month like 15 years ago here at the forum!! The second one is a Les Paul special from Korina that was “stolen” from me by the best blues player in Greece E. Zaikos of the Blues Wire band! Look them up! It started as a necessity and I just wanted to revisit that kind of build! I am enjoying the process very much I must say!!

Thank you so much!! It s coming out pretty light too, makes me want to try something similar with Korina next time. What I especially like is the fact that if you tap it, it vibrates as a whole so I am guessing the sustain will be cool. We will see!!

Installed the missing frets and drilled to connect the cavities with one another.

So I got some more progress down today. I shaped the back of the neck with the shaver a little bit. I tapered the side winds to go from 34 to 30 mm like in the old firebirds. I use the hand planer and the orbital sander. I used the dremel to put a chamfer on the sides... Then I drilled for the pots and the input jack. Did a little cavity work. I like it even better now! Let us see how it turns out! It will be light!! Like 2.6 kilos!!! It has a nice bassy ring to her when you tap her , I believe the sustain will be extraordinary! I wanted to paint her green metallic but now I am having second thoughts... any suggestions??

And the board is on the neck!!

Frets almost done... i used a maple neck blank to install them with ca glue and the JAWS.

Hope it will! No that is actually a TV jones humbucker adapter ring. I put it there to see how black looks like, compared to the black neck soapbar. I might have to make one and see what is up. I want to try an aluminum one too and see what fits better!

So I do not have any large pickguard material lying around... I had a lot of plexi glass though. I have used it in the past ... So I cut one piece up as a pickguard for now at least...

Thanks fellas! So I decided to draw the bridge pup cavity and press it down with the scalpels. Then with the help of the router it looks sth like the following pics..

Yeap, especially in the early days I didn’t want to invest too much , nowadays I tend to buy better stuff but if the cheap old ones still hold up and do their job I keep them! Parkside has some descent examples as I can see!! The planer more than does its job (I only use it for that one thing) and the cordless screwdriver too!

Hi! Well, some of them are on the cheap side but I got some good ones too like stew mac stuff , Bosch jigsaw, makita orbital sander etc. Anyways thanks for the input! I will try for a slight relic! I will make a black ring for the mini hum and try it out!!

So I would like some opinions! I want to paint her green metallic nitro. The neck pup is a black p90. Would you put a black or a metallic ring at the bridge minihum?

Side dots are ready. Started the fretboard radius. It will be 12”. Finished it with the aluminum beam. Designed a maple veneer for the headstock. Cut it with the dremel moto saw. ... and glued it on the guitar. Marked the back of the neck and I cut the excess wood with the jigsaw. Afterwards I thickness the back of the neck with the safeTplanner to 2mm. Some more shaping was done at the volute area with the spindle sander... Started bringing the back down to achieve 40mm thickness. levelled it well with the hand plane. Marked for the side steps. And there they are with the same channelling way with the help of the router. Did the belly cut too. Routed out the neck pickup. I want the neck pup to be a p90 and the bridge pup to be a minihum Neil Young style. I will add a bigsby... The guitar is very very light!!! 1.7 kilos withouth the board and hardware! That is the weight of a light strat body!!! Started installing frets. Hosco M1 narrow jumbo. The scale is 25.625” so I guess this will suit the high register nicely spacewise...

I marked a contour to the bottom of the maple block and shaped it with the spindle sander. i then applied titebond glue and clamped it lightly on the rod without pressing too much and left it there to dry for a couple of days. When I returned, I used the hand plane to get it nice and level. After that, it was time to cut frets on the rosewood board. I used the guitar neck to route a channel to the sides of the boards for the cream binding. I installed the pearloid fretboard dots... And the binding is also installed...

Some more pics of the truss rod procedure...

Continuing with the build, it was time to cut for the truss rod channel. I want to use a traditional rod with a maple strip cap for added rigidity. I laid out the borders of the channel with a ruler. Then, I pressed a sharp chisel on the lines to separate the wood a little bit. That helped a lot because as I used the concave chisel the central wood strip started raising up real nice and clean! (-ly) A narrower router bit helped me lower the channel at about 8 mm and remain inside the borders of the channel. I drilled the central part to the depth of 17mm and used the chisel to make a contoured channel by hand. That was surprisingly easy because this wood is so soft... hmmm I cut the rod to the length I wanted it and toped it. Tried it out and it seems to fit nicely! After some time I decided to lower the body a bit like on the old firebirds. I measured and routed the body down with channels as I did earlier with the body front.

... right away. So afterwards it was time for me to give an angle to the neck. Firstly I used a fretboard template to rout the outline of the neck. Right after that, I used the power planner to give an angle to the headstock. Then, I put two steel rails and an elongated base to my router and I used it as a jig to bring the neck back. After some planing and sanding on a flat belt sander it was straight as an arrow!

Hi y’all! This argytar from Greece. I am an ENT surgeon and it has been more than 15 years that I have been building guitars on and off. These days are very difficult since tha virus started spreading here in Greece and my practice and the decrease of moving back and forth ha brought me closer to my shop. Of course my phone is ringing almost every 15 minutes , but that is another thing. Anyways, I have recently tried a friend ‘s epi firebird VII and loved the feel. I had some hardware lying around and after some offset builds (like the Pimp-master) I decided to give a birdie a go with a twist. I will make it out of a single block of ayouz wood or obeche which is very very light!. I have found a somewhat old steardy dry piece and started working in my little nonetheless spare time. So firstly, I layed out the outline using a 1:1 printed firebird studio .pdf that a friend of mine printed out with his plotter. Then, I used a jigsaw to cut out the outline. After measuring and drawing on the wood the center line it was time to lower the body 2 mm. That is how much the Obeche part of the neck would have been protruding from the body should it was glued on. I want it at an angle so that is the first step I took. I used an old method, I got me router to make large grooves of 2 mm. The body was 52 mm thick. That means I had plenty of wood to work on. Using a small hand plane I flattened the surface. To be continued...

The Pimp Hi y’all! Wanted to do a thematic build so I imagined a guitar with pimp aesthetics. purple velvet jacket, gold bling, raw p90 sound etc 2 piece Korina body sealed with shellac and painted in ultra thin-skin nitro. Halon gold hardware trem and bridge (you gotta try these! Best quality! World - class alloys and tone!) Nick Silver blue moonlight pickups alnico II 50s style p90s gotoh vintage gold tuners ebony fretboard 16” radius tortoise shell pickguard real mop inlays 4-ply laminated neck flame maple with walnut. home-made decal layered angled headstock (9 degrees) loved the tone! You can rock out with it, play the blues and surf for dayzz! enjoy!! https://youtu.be/7o0ZYNWLxZE

Wow ! Congrats to both Seb and Massimo! Great work and attention to detail! Very honoured to lose to your creations guys, they were truly unique and inspiring!

Hi! Haven't posted in a while. Some time ago I made a Gretsch-o-tele project and named it after my daughter. So... This is Danae! It's close to an orange chicken , but it has a flat top and a bolt-on neck. The body was routed also for conventional string-through - body if you put a norman tele neck on. The custom bridge is floating as per vintage Gretsch. (I have an original 1966 6120 dc Nashville and got much info outta that.) Mahogany body with 5A maple top. QS chunky maple neck , bound. Ebony fretboard with real MOP "neo-classical" inlays TV Jones classics Schaller tuners Bound matching headstock inlaid "Danae" with real MOP CTS pots Switchcraft three-way toggle switch. Switchcraft jack. Orange drop .022 cap. Bolt-on neck at an angle Sawn - off Bigsby B5 Custom ebony rocking bar bridge. Finished exclusivelly with schellac!! Take a listen!