ToddW

I have the dewalt and it's great, but if I were to do it again, I'd get the Steel City one at the same price that has a spiral cutting blade. There may be other's with a spiral blade too. Just a thought. Todd

Awesome. Those can't be string ferules just past the bridge sitting next to him, because it'd mean he super really tiny! Can you say what they are and how big he is? edit: Never mind, went to your site, he's actually pretty big. Nice. Best, Todd

That would account for the static while moving the pot's control, not sure it would leave it with chronic static, but I agree, that's a good place to start.

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge...otbabygrand.htm http://www.guitarpartsdepot.com/Guitar_Bri...idge_Black.html That's only cheap compared to Stewmac

Exiler, Sounds like you just raised the grain a little. The dye or sealer cause the little whiskers that sand paper leaves behind to swell and stand up. Don't wet sand until after you've finished clear coating it! Just take a 320 grit sanding pad or really fine paper, and very gently sand with the grain. Then dust it off and see if that solved the problem. It won't be shiny until it's cleared and buffed, but it should be smooth. After you do that, you could add another coat of sanding sealer to see if it looks shinier, but I don't know if I would, because the sealer might effect your dye if you wet it too much. Best, Todd

I agree with that. My point is the actual width of the slots made by a .021 kerf hand saw and a .023 kerf hand saw will overlap, and one extra pull with the .021 using some slight side pressure and you're going to be wider than the .023. That's if everything else is the same. I have the .023, but I'd rather have the .021 if it's as nice a saw. And a cheap set of feeler gauges. But I wouldn't buy a new saw just to go from .023 to .021. A few seconds with a piece of sand paper, a stone, or a diamond file will accomplish that and clean off any dirt/rust/resins at the same time.

What difference does medium versus jumbo make if the tang is the same on each? Anyway, .021 versus .023" is beyond human accuracy. The saw's vibration and your hand shaking will make that much of a difference. Heck, the change in humidity if you saw one day and measure the next will probably make that much difference. What do you think is going to happen, you cut the slot with the .021, think it's too tight, put in saw and pull back once while lifting it out of the slot, and now darn, now your too wide at .024? We're not machines.

Awsome, now don't forget to get something like one of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/NORGREN-FILTERS-COMPRE...%3A1%7C294%3A50 You could buy one from an online store for around $35 plus shipping without the indicator on top, or $55 with the indicator. So two with the indicator is a good deal for 20 or 30 bucks. They're tiny, so don't expect a big filter. I know because I've got the 3/8" NPT one with a matcing coalescing filter right after it. For some reason, surplus Norgrens like that come up on ebay fairly often. Anyway, congrats on the Finex. I've heard great things about it.

Awesome. Thanks for the explanation. I hadn't actually considered that I could go back and remove dye as opposed to sanding it back, but that makes a lot of sense. I assume that if you wipe with a clean damp cloth, you pull more dye from the non-figured areas where the penetration is shallower. I have to try that on a practice board!

http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/product/A...e_Shipping.html http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/product/A...un_Gun_Kit.html I got the second one in the kit for $200 total, now it's 215 delivered, but it does give you 3 tips. The guys at that site are pretty helpful. If you want, I can find the name of the guy I spoke to. Just more options to consider. best, Todd

Hi Drak, That's not really what I meant. I meant are you soaking/saturating the wood with dye and then wiping off the excess, or is the "old sock" fairly dry when you are applying dye to the wood? Also, since I've thought of it, how do you neutralize the bleach? Just rinse with water and de-whisker it with fine sandpaper, or vinegar, or . . . ? Thanks, Todd

Hi Drak, Couple of questions if you don't mind. The second picture looks lighter than the first, is that because it's dry, because you sanded it a little, or is it just the flash? And two, from the partially dyed picture, it looks like you wipe on the dye pretty dry. Is that the case? Thanks, Todd

Actually, I think a minigun would be preferable since you can overlap passes with the smaller fan, but there are guys with more experience who will comment. If you're going to paint cars too, you might not want a mini gun, but then again, you'd need a much bigger compressor for that. Todd

Hi Metalhead, Can I ask a few questions? What are you planning to spray? Paint, lacquer, automotive 2k, water based? Is that a gas powered compressor? 4HP on 15gallons seems like a big motor unless you're listing the "peak HP". My 60 gallon compressor is 3 or 3.2HP running. Either way, for guitars, I think you'll probably want a mini-gun, and most of those use under 6cfm. You'll also want a moisture filter, but those are easy to get at a great price off E-bay. Don't buy one of the "buy it now" filters if you do this, hold out for a Norgren or such. I've got $300 in filters now, but paid $35-40 total with shipping Last thought, there are a few people here who may chime in, but you may want to search over at kustomkulturelounge.com too. But be forewarned, half of them will tell you to buy a Sata or an Iwata for a gazillion dollars, because they make their livings with their spray guns. Regards, Todd

The only music store business card I've ever kept is from www.aamps.us The card is plastic with four punched out guitar pics, and each has the websites and contact phone number. Did a Google search and found where they come from: http://www.nexuspromotions.com/we/we.dll/D...&Specials=1 The pick punch is a neat idea, but I wouldn't pay more than a few bucks for one. I'm happy with store bought picks, but it'd be a neat way to get rid of old credit cards.