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ToddW

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Everything posted by ToddW

  1. I have the dewalt and it's great, but if I were to do it again, I'd get the Steel City one at the same price that has a spiral cutting blade. There may be other's with a spiral blade too. Just a thought. Todd
  2. Awesome. Those can't be string ferules just past the bridge sitting next to him, because it'd mean he super really tiny! Can you say what they are and how big he is? edit: Never mind, went to your site, he's actually pretty big. Nice. Best, Todd
  3. That would account for the static while moving the pot's control, not sure it would leave it with chronic static, but I agree, that's a good place to start.
  4. http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge...otbabygrand.htm http://www.guitarpartsdepot.com/Guitar_Bri...idge_Black.html That's only cheap compared to Stewmac
  5. Exiler, Sounds like you just raised the grain a little. The dye or sealer cause the little whiskers that sand paper leaves behind to swell and stand up. Don't wet sand until after you've finished clear coating it! Just take a 320 grit sanding pad or really fine paper, and very gently sand with the grain. Then dust it off and see if that solved the problem. It won't be shiny until it's cleared and buffed, but it should be smooth. After you do that, you could add another coat of sanding sealer to see if it looks shinier, but I don't know if I would, because the sealer might effect your dye if you wet it too much. Best, Todd
  6. I agree with that. My point is the actual width of the slots made by a .021 kerf hand saw and a .023 kerf hand saw will overlap, and one extra pull with the .021 using some slight side pressure and you're going to be wider than the .023. That's if everything else is the same. I have the .023, but I'd rather have the .021 if it's as nice a saw. And a cheap set of feeler gauges. But I wouldn't buy a new saw just to go from .023 to .021. A few seconds with a piece of sand paper, a stone, or a diamond file will accomplish that and clean off any dirt/rust/resins at the same time.
  7. What difference does medium versus jumbo make if the tang is the same on each? Anyway, .021 versus .023" is beyond human accuracy. The saw's vibration and your hand shaking will make that much of a difference. Heck, the change in humidity if you saw one day and measure the next will probably make that much difference. What do you think is going to happen, you cut the slot with the .021, think it's too tight, put in saw and pull back once while lifting it out of the slot, and now darn, now your too wide at .024? We're not machines.
  8. Awsome, now don't forget to get something like one of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/NORGREN-FILTERS-COMPRE...%3A1%7C294%3A50 You could buy one from an online store for around $35 plus shipping without the indicator on top, or $55 with the indicator. So two with the indicator is a good deal for 20 or 30 bucks. They're tiny, so don't expect a big filter. I know because I've got the 3/8" NPT one with a matcing coalescing filter right after it. For some reason, surplus Norgrens like that come up on ebay fairly often. Anyway, congrats on the Finex. I've heard great things about it.
  9. Awesome. Thanks for the explanation. I hadn't actually considered that I could go back and remove dye as opposed to sanding it back, but that makes a lot of sense. I assume that if you wipe with a clean damp cloth, you pull more dye from the non-figured areas where the penetration is shallower. I have to try that on a practice board!
  10. http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/product/A...e_Shipping.html http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/product/A...un_Gun_Kit.html I got the second one in the kit for $200 total, now it's 215 delivered, but it does give you 3 tips. The guys at that site are pretty helpful. If you want, I can find the name of the guy I spoke to. Just more options to consider. best, Todd
  11. Hi Drak, That's not really what I meant. I meant are you soaking/saturating the wood with dye and then wiping off the excess, or is the "old sock" fairly dry when you are applying dye to the wood? Also, since I've thought of it, how do you neutralize the bleach? Just rinse with water and de-whisker it with fine sandpaper, or vinegar, or . . . ? Thanks, Todd
  12. Hi Drak, Couple of questions if you don't mind. The second picture looks lighter than the first, is that because it's dry, because you sanded it a little, or is it just the flash? And two, from the partially dyed picture, it looks like you wipe on the dye pretty dry. Is that the case? Thanks, Todd
  13. Actually, I think a minigun would be preferable since you can overlap passes with the smaller fan, but there are guys with more experience who will comment. If you're going to paint cars too, you might not want a mini gun, but then again, you'd need a much bigger compressor for that. Todd
  14. Hi Metalhead, Can I ask a few questions? What are you planning to spray? Paint, lacquer, automotive 2k, water based? Is that a gas powered compressor? 4HP on 15gallons seems like a big motor unless you're listing the "peak HP". My 60 gallon compressor is 3 or 3.2HP running. Either way, for guitars, I think you'll probably want a mini-gun, and most of those use under 6cfm. You'll also want a moisture filter, but those are easy to get at a great price off E-bay. Don't buy one of the "buy it now" filters if you do this, hold out for a Norgren or such. I've got $300 in filters now, but paid $35-40 total with shipping Last thought, there are a few people here who may chime in, but you may want to search over at kustomkulturelounge.com too. But be forewarned, half of them will tell you to buy a Sata or an Iwata for a gazillion dollars, because they make their livings with their spray guns. Regards, Todd
  15. The only music store business card I've ever kept is from www.aamps.us The card is plastic with four punched out guitar pics, and each has the websites and contact phone number. Did a Google search and found where they come from: http://www.nexuspromotions.com/we/we.dll/D...&Specials=1 The pick punch is a neat idea, but I wouldn't pay more than a few bucks for one. I'm happy with store bought picks, but it'd be a neat way to get rid of old credit cards.
  16. Rick, Derry, Bass . . . Read your post and got this image of Geddy Lee playing bass as frontman for Journey, and he sort of looked like Steve Perry. I probably owe Geddy Lee an apology, and I clearly need to get more sleep. Welcome to project guitar, Rick
  17. Check out Andy DePaul's site.: http://www.luthiersupply.com/tipsfaqspage.html I'm sure there's more info online too.
  18. Hey Alan, Is that regular housepaint? I'm not sure how well that stuff sands and polishes, but I can't see any reason not to try buffing it. I don't think housepaint is hard enough that you need to wet sand with 600 grit, but if you do start there, go lightly. Maybe someone will comment on trying a final flow coat with a reduced mix. Also, if it's water based paint house paint, then a good N95 particulate mask is better than nothing, but a half mask respirator is really cheap insurance spraying anything. You only get one set of lungs. Best regards, Todd
  19. The higher resistance probably does mean it's slightly less effective than copper tape. But, it's easy, there's no risk of gaps, it looks good, and it's a lot better than nothing!
  20. I feel like a conformist, but I voted for the LP too. I don't love the black control covers, but that's just a beautifully executed LP clone. Nicely done! Jadan and Low End Fuzz were super close to taking my vote. I just didn't see the skull as fitting with such a pretty 7 stringer. Minus that, it would easily have been my first choice. On the Peanut Butter Bass I had the same thought as a few others about matching the headstock front. That would have looked better to me. Not a lot of entries this month, but I like them all. Nice work guys!
  21. Don't know about slug tape, but the shielding paint I used, CuPro, wasn't super cheap: http://www.lessemf.com/paint.html But it is very easy to use, and looks nice. The 4oz size seems like plenty to do 3 or 4 guitars with 3 coats each, and the time savings worth it to me. Took less than 5 minutes per coat to do the control cavity, PUP routes, and the wire chanels (I used a q-tip to do those). After 2 coates, I read 2 to 3 ohms from the neck route to the furthest point in the control cavity. I'll put on a third before I finish it. Todd
  22. Hey Spoke, it's a pain, but I think an oportunity too. Donovan could use that extra space and compensate the nut. So it will look intentional.
  23. I got this: http://www.paintsprayersplus.com/product/A...p;utm_campaign= From Jason at PaintSprayersPlus. And it's a beautiful piece of equipment, but silly me, I tried to remove the steel threaded insert on it so I could put a 3M PPS adaptor right in the gun. See, I ordered the wrong adaptor. I got #6, and needed #21 LOL. The 6 would only fit if I pulled out the insert, which I didn't realize was lock-tited. So I stripped the hex insert on the adaptor. STUPID ME! Sent it back to Tino at AOM, who said he could heat it up and replace it, but instead of fixing it next week, he saw what I did and decided to just send me a brand new one. Maybe he was worried I might have damaged it by yorking on it so hard I stripped a steel hex fitting. I don't think I did, it's light, but it seems really well made. Anyway, not too many companies would have given a new gun to some hobbyist who destroyed their precision tool with his ignorance! But AOM did. And before that, Jason at Paint Sprayers Plus, one of Asturo's dealers, actually added stuff I needed to his website so I could order it. I always buy good equipment. Better than I need by far. And because of that, I price shop for it. In this case I got a professional spray gun at a steal of a price, and I got service I clearly didn't deserve. Great company, you guys should check them out if you ever need a nice mini gun kit. Todd PS) It doesn't actually take 6 CFM!
  24. Looks good, but I'm curious: How thick are the front and back plates, and are they braced? I'm worried about it self destructing when you string it. -Todd
  25. Arrogant? Probably. And maybe a bit delusional. But still talented. It is a little annoying when he describes as facts, things which clearly aren't evidence based. But most of us delude ourselves about something, and if it makes him happy, building guitars based on his personal theories, that's great. I think his views on guitars are like a religion to him. And we should tolerate other peoples religious beliefs even if they aren't based on facts. I do it all the time when people here talk about the effect the fretboard wood species is going to have on an electric guitar's tone
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