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Found 12 results

  1. Definitely still a WIP and I don't have a real one to take measurements against so this is strictly pieced together from the installer pdf. If anyone has more info on the saddle dimensions please let me know. I don't have access to post to Uploads, otherwise I'd have posted it there. Evertune_FT6_v4.dxf
  2. Hi, this is my first post on this site so I apologize if this topic is misplaced. I'm building a custom RG and I am going to use the Gotoh ge1996t bridge, but i can't find the routing dimensions for the actual cavity. Does anyone know these dimensions or have a link to a plan? Or does anyone know for sure if it will fit in a OFR cavity?
  3. For as long as I've been building guitars and basses, the classic Hipshot hardtail bridge has been the mainstay for builders needing a friendly, easy-to-implement 6, 7 or 8 (and now 9!) string hardtail bridge. This classic hardtail became synonymous with single-scale extended range instruments, gracing guitars by both amateur and boutique custom-builders alike. You could even suggest that it played a pioneer role in driving the development of these instruments and it's still just as popular over ten years later, regularly appearing on member builds here on ProjectGuitar.com. Hipshot have relea
  4. Hipshot are a savvy bunch, and to bring a new bridge system onto the market you have to know exactly the features it needs for the end user without making it a stiff and boring-looking item, or worse....an overburdened contraption that only a marketer can save. The Tone-A-Matic effectively addresses the most common issues found in traditional TOM-style systems with a neat attractive unit; both a one-shot retrofit for Nashville-style TOM bridges and a simple-to-implement high grade boutique bridge for new instruments. Generally here on ProjectGuitar.com, the average reader is a builder, so
  5. Version 1

    206 downloads

    DXF drawing of Hipshot 8-string hardtail bridge for models 41160 (0.125" floor thickness) and 41165 (0.175" floor thickness). Dimensions in mm.
  6. Version 1

    274 downloads

    DXF drawing of Hipshot 7-string hardtail bridge for models 41150 (0.125" floor thickness) and 41155 (0.175" floor thickness). Dimensions in mm.
  7. Version 1

    310 downloads

    DXF drawing of Hipshot 6-string hardtail bridge for models 41100 (0.125" floor thickness) and 41105 (0.175" floor thickness). Dimensions in mm.
  8. Version v1.0

    129 downloads

    DXF of a Hipshot TransTone 5-string bass bridge. Derived from Hipshot's public PDF dimension specifications via hipshotproducts.com
  9. Let's start from the beginning: why a headless? I've always like the small and confortable guitars like Kramer Baretta, Washburn Steve Stevens and Nuno Bettencourt, and finally Music Man. To have a small body the bridge should be positioned as close as possible at the end of the body. Consequently it must have a small headstock not to unbalance the design. In a headless the bridge is placed at the end of the body to be able to easily access to the intonation adjustment, and the headstock is so small that you can't see it. I've never been interested in the egonomic design guitars. A guitar
  10. Up until 1973 Gibson's bass bridges were fairly primitive and somewhat fault-prone but still relatively advanced in comparison to those in use by Fender. The introduction of their "three-point" bridge eliminated most of the existing problems of older bar or "two-point" bridges but introduced many of its own quirks. Still in use on modern Gibson and Epiphone basses, the three-point bass bridge is a proven design albeit mired in its traditional roots with much room for improvement. Up until the introduction of the SuperTone, upgrades for Gibson basses were near non-existent. The wide mounting po
  11. A brief introduction, I am a skilled furniture builder and a musician of many years, but first time guitar builder. I received a guitar kit via the internet to try my first build. Its an SG kit. When I was test fitting all the pieces, the bridge and tail piece anchors fit loosely in their pre-drilled holes. I can install them and remove them freely. Now I'm pretty sure they should not be that loose. So, question being, what can I do to fix this problem? I am assuming as a craftsman I can, 1. Fill the holes with dowel material and re-drill the holes. 2. Epoxy the anchors in
  12. Have been in the business of making superb instrument hardware for almost thirty years, the Hipshot name is synonymous with refinement, high quality and experience. Most importantly Hipshot maintain friendly two-way customer contact which - being fed back into the products - ultimately makes the products the result of players, luthiers and of course the expertise of guys at Hipshot. Products are manufactured and personally inspected at each and every process rather than dropping off the conveyor into the box. Aside from certain specialised processes such as gold plating, every process from the
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