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Found 3 results

  1. Hi, Quick question, I'm making an SG alike and I want 12" radius, but I can buy precut fret wire and these frets are 10". Can I use them? I've read that it's proper to use frets with a little smaller radius than fretboard and I don't have a fret bender, so it would suit me. Sorry for my english, I hope it's understandable
  2. Set-Up and Use of the Guitars & Woods (G&W) Fretboard Miter Box 1. Introduction The guide will cover: An overview of how the miter box is used Obtaining a square initial datum (generally needed for first use only) Mounting the unit on a bench or board Setting the blade width (generally needed for first use only, unless a different saw is subsequently used) Setting the height of cut (done for each new blank fretboard) Locking the above settings, ready for fret slotting (done for each new blank fretboard) Preparing the fretboard for use in the miter box Positioning and attaching the fretboard to the Fretscale Template Locating correctly the fretboard / template assembly into the miter box Clamping, or otherwise securing, the fretboard / template assembly in the miter box ready for sawing Indexing the fretboard / template assembly ready for the next slot to be cut Removing the slotted fretboard from the template 2. Parts   3. Overview - Principles of Operation It can sometimes be a little overwhelming diving into the detail before you are familiar with the equipment. So, as a very broad overview – and referring to the Parts photographs in Section 1, this is how it works: The miter box keeps the fretsaw blade square, perpendicular and firmly in position. The saw, when cutting, rides smoothly between eight ball bearings fitted in the Guide Bearing Brackets (3) The fretboard is secured to the Fretscale Template (9) with double-sided tape This fretboard / template assembly is placed into the miter box and the Locating Pin (2) is engaged into a slot on the Fretscale Template (10 &11) note: the G&W Miter Box is available with two different baseplate widths enabling fret slotting on wider fretboards, such as those for 8-string guitars or 6-string basses. Fret scale templates are designed primarily for use with the narrower baseplate and benefit from a shim sized to the gap created by a wider base plate. The fretboard is now in position ready for the fret slot to be cut The fretboard / template assembly is clamped, or otherwise secured, in position and sawing can start When the saw spine reaches the top bearings, the cut is complete and the spine (12) runs smoothly on the top four bearings - the saw cannot go any deeper than it has been set The fretboard clamps (or other methods of securing) are released and the fretboard / template assembly is lifted off the locating pin and slid along until the next Template Locating Slot (10) is reached and the assembly locks down over the locating pin in the next position. The fretboard is now in the correct position for the next slot to be cut A short amount of time trying out the equipment will make the above very quickly and easily understood. It is strongly recommended that you try out the miter box with some scrap wood to familiarise yourself with its operation and features before using it on a piece of fretboard wood intended for use in a guitar or bass build.   4. Setting Up the Miter Box for Use 4.1 Ensuring the miter box is squared up This will usually only need to be done once, before the first use of the miter box Loosen the Side Piece Adjustment Screws (7) with the supplied Allen key just enough to allow the side pieces to slide in their slots when pushed Place the end of the box nearest to the Locating Pin (2) upright on a flat surface: Push the two lower Side Pieces (6) downwards until they are flat and level with the end of the Base Plate (1) While holding the Side Pieces flat against the surface, tighten the six Side Piece Adjustment Screws (7) The Locating Pin side of the miter box is now squared up and you are ready for the next step of the set up 4.2 Setting the fretsaw blade width This will usually only need to be done once, before the first use of the miter box, unless a different saw is subsequently used. As supplied, the Guide Bearing Brackets (3) will be loose. If they do not move at all in their slots, ensure that the Guide Bearing Bracket Locking Screws (5) are slackened - using the supplied smaller Allen key - just sufficiently for the brackets to move Referring to step 4.1 above, you will now be pushing the two remaining loose Side Pieces (6) firmly against the fretsaw blade. Insert the fretsaw between the two sets of bearings. Push each of the loose Side Pieces (6) firmly against the saw blade and tighten the relevant Side Piece Adjustment Screws (7) This operation should be carried out with the fret saw in place; the tool has been omitted for visual clarity Ensure that the saw can move freely between the bearings. The blade will now be both square and perpendicular to the miter box base and sides   5. Using the Miter Box 5.1 Mounting the miter box to workbench or board Although it is possible to use the miter box as it is, it is strongly recommended that the box is securely screwed to the workbench or a flat plank or board using the screw holes (8) provided in the base plate Tip - The miter box can be mounted either way round. Mount it so that the main cutting force of the saw blade is pulling the fretboard and template into the side containing the Locating Pin (2). For a pull blade, that will be having the Locating Pin nearest to you and for a push blade having the Locating Pin away from you: 5.2 Mounting the fretboard blank onto the Scale Template Please Note that the following guidelines assume a rectangular fretboard blank. For a tapered blank, refer also to the Section 7 covering some variations Ensure that one side of the fretboard has a flat and square edge. This will be the side that lines up with the Fret Scale Template (9) Tip – If the Fret Scale Template (9) is attached with the scale length showing at the back, it will be easier to ensure that the correct scale length of the two options is being used: Before adding any double sided tape, lay the Fret Scale Template (9) in the mitre box and engage Locating Pin (2) into the nut-end slot in the template. Lay the fretboard blank onto the Fretscale Template(6) and position the fretboard so that the saw position will be at the required distance from the end of the fretboard. Note the position: Using three or four narrow strips of double sided tape, stick the fretboard blank onto the Fret Scale Template (9) in position and taking care the straight edge of the fretboard is lined up exactly with the Fret Scale Template edge: 5.3 Setting Cut Depth There are a number of methods for doing this. This is one method: Raise the Guide Bearing Brackets (3) using the Adjustment Screws (4) Place the fretboard/template assembly into the miter box and put the saw into the bearing guides, inserting it from the side but taking care not to pass the cutting teeth through the small gap between the bearings. Rest the spine of the saw on the top four bearings: Use the Height Adjustment Screws (4) to lower the blade until it is just touching the fretboard. Ensure that both bearings each side of the fretsaw spine are at the same height. Lift the fretsaw clear of the fretboard and remove it. Remove also the fretboard /template assembly. Using a steel rule or vernier, lower each of the four bearing brackets by the depth of cut required: Reinsert saw - ensuring that the bearings are in contact with the saw blade - and tighten the eight Guide Bearing Bracket Locking Screws (5) with the supplied Allen key to clamp the brackets in place. Do not overtighten! Tip – with slight sidewards pressure against the blade, first tighten the brackets on the left, then push each of the right-hand brackets up to the saw blade and tighten those. This should ensure all four bearings one each side are making contact with the blade Ensure that the saw blade runs freely, that there are no gaps between the blade and the four pairs of bearings. You are now ready to start slotting! 5.4 Clamping and Slotting Remove the saw blade and lift the fretboard / template assembly into place. ENSURE THAT THE EDGE OF THE FRETBOARD / TEMPLATE IS TIGHT AGAINST THE SIDE PIECES (6) AND THAT THE LOCATING PIN IS ENGAGED IN THE TEMPLATE SLOT It is strongly recommended that the fretboard is either clamped - or held tight against the side pieces with some scrap wooden wedge strip - so that the fretboard does not move during cutting: Carefully insert the sawblade and cut the slot until the fret saw's spine is running freely on the top bearings Remove the sawblade, unclamp and lift the fretboard / template assembly a little to disengage the Location Pin Slide the fretboard / template assembly along until the next slot on the template drops over the locating pin Check again that the edge of the fretboard and template are firmly butted up to the side pieces of the miter box Re-clamp or wedge, re-insert sawblade and cut the next slot. When finished, use a thin long knife, thin cabinet scraper or kitchen spatula to gently separate the fretboard from the template. Do not try to pull it off – a slotted fretboard is liable to break! 6. Is this all too much? Fear Not! The above guidance is necessarily detailed. With a decent familiarity of what you are doing and a knowledge of the important steps – which this guide seeks to help you with - the reality is that it should take : Less than ½ hour to do the initial squaring up and setting up – this will not normally need doing again Less than ¼ hour to attach the fretboard to the template and set the cutting height ½ hour to cut 24 accurate fret slots 7. And finally, some variations The fretboard does not have to be rectangular – it could be tapered. The template will still need to closely butt up to the locating pin and miter sides. Here, however, it is even more important to find a way of securely clamping the fretboard to the template to prevent movement while the fretboard is being sawn. The optional wide Base Plate (1) that can be used for wider fretboards. With good clamping, the wide variant can be used for any fretboard. The photographs in this guide are using the wider Base Plate.
  3. To truly step up your guitar-building game, every last bit of fundamental geometry needs to be perfect. Every time. You need 100% control. The fingerboard is what most people find the hardest to nail; a badly-radiused fingerboard translates errors through to the fretwork. This then requires additional metal being removed during levelling and a poor end product. Without the right tools it can be a slow and difficult job. Precision radiusing beams are the easiest and quickest way of sanding your fingerboard into perfect form. Simply stick a length of coarse (80-100 grit) adhesive sandpaper (or using double-sided tape for normal sandpaper) to the bottom, scribble over the board with a pencil and work on removing all of the pencil marks evenly and radiusing the board symmetrically. Once dialled in, sequentially replace the paper towards finer (up to 600 and beyond) grits till the board is perfect. A fingerboard can easily be completed in less than half an hour without hard work. As of writing, the last fingerboard I radiused yielded fretwork that only had one fret in need of specific levelling work. The acceleration in workflow saves the busy workshop luthier time and money whilst giving the home enthusiast shop-quality results. The width of the beams (70mm) is ideal for single-handed use. This easily manages 6-string and 7-string guitars plus 4-string basses. Wider fingerboards require only a little more attention, producing results as perfect as their narrower counterparts. In comparison to other radiusing beams available online, the G&W tool has a nice level of fit and finish. The ends are deburred to remove sharp edges left from machining operations, plus the surfaces are an appealing but simple satin with the G&W logo and radius in large clear type. The "grippiness" of the hand shaping is excellent (a couple of strips of hockey tape in the recess work great) with the weight of the beam ideal for keeping it true in use. G&W stock the most common radii (7-1/4", 9-1/2", 10", 12", 16") in both long (450mm/18") and short (200mm/just under 8") lengths with a discount for a full sets of all 5. Even including the cost of worldwide shipping, the price is still lower than the equivalent tool from Stewart-MacDonald. For European-based buyers, the price is simply a steal. Also stocked are shorter wood radius beams which are ideal for fret levelling, knocking down areas of inlay work to the level of the fingerboard or even as fret clamping cauls. That's a lot of beam for your buck - 21 fret, 25,5" scale board for reference G&W's comprehensive range of guitar and bass building tools, templates and essentials has developed them into an excellent one-stop shop for European-based luthiers. Their competitive pricing easily saves a significant amount of money or simply gets you more quality equipment for your budget. Precision radiusing beams are simple but essential tools often skipped over due to their formerly high purchase cost; G&W have broken this rule, allowing luthiers at all levels affordable access to shop-grade tooling. G&W - Guitar and Woods Luthier Supplies
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