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Theres white residue after i tried to get rid of the old paint. Guitar model is behringer i-axe 393. Is there any way to remove it?
Hello everybody. I have been searching a reading some threads like this one http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48410-best-entry-level-cnc-machine/ and the articles Curtisa posted, also the discussion about 2.5 capabilities. I´m more a technology guy than carpenter/manual, but I have some ideas for building flamenco guitars. Tradicitionally, all the parts here in Spain were built like carptenter from the headstock to the end, even they tend to follow the most rudimentary "ways" and tools that require lots of time. I started the thread, because, I have some doubts related 2.5D, 3D capablities of some machines/software, and because seem most topics are oriented to electric guitars, that are different horses, so in classical/flamenco guitars must join parts even using a CNC for parts. So, will try to be specific as I can, What I attached in pics, a finished neck with head and shaft and heel are three parts joined (glued), most workd for me seems shaft curve with specific radio, and heel with a "nice" figure from a just a square piece of woodd seems a 3D hard work often handmade. So my first doubts, if what machine/or combo cnc/machine cnc should I need? Do 2.5D? or 3D? is software depending or machine depending? I could use the machine for other milling features, example, the top and bottom, come in pieces of 4mm, than usually are sand manually til get 2.6mm, so i guess this work could be very easy done with a cnc, maybe also the rossete milling needed, maybe the hole., Usually harmonic bars are cutted from the own original 4mm wodd, then modeled, I guess a cnc could be most of that quite easily. some parts like this are not that dificult to make by hand like the the neck curves so should be optional depending on the machine I could afford. So hope if you can give me a first orientation about hardware/software capabilities, prices, 2.5D or 3D difference to find out if needed 3D for the neck. Hope I explained my first idea, so you can give me a first orientation. thank you.
Hi everyone I am sure there's been a ton of posts like this before, apologies for the repetition. I've just bought a flying V build your own kit here in China, first attempt at a build so I thought I'd start with something I could afford to muck up. Everything has gone swimmingly, but the wiring is an absolute mystery to me. No instructions came with the kit whatsoever. I know it's a simple job but I really have no clue. I've done some searching but can't find anything that I understand. I've attached a picture, anybody able to give me some extremely simple instruction of which wire to solder to what bit? Thanks in advance Cranny p.s. Love this site, It's gonna be a godsend to me!
Hi all! I am new here, just getting started on my first custom electric guitar and thought I'd ask for a quick bit of advice as I am concerned that I have made some mistakes already. I am building a guitar from parts that I am getting from a variety of places; a Gibson RD shaped body and a 25.5" scale neck so far. I am basing things on the RD of my youth that I sold for some stupid reason that I can no longer remember. The first issue I am wrestling with is neck angle. The neck that I purchased has none whatsoever as that was all I could find at the time with the longer 25.5 scale of the original RDs, which I think may have been a mistake since the body has pre-drilled holes for a stop tail bridge. Assuming the pre-drilled stoptail holes mean I am locked into a tune o magic bridge, does this mean I am going to have to angle the neck, which sits os so nicely right now, so as to get acceptable action? What about string trees for pressure against the nut? Can anyone recommend a low profile bridge that I can use with a standard Gibson style stop tailpiece which would be low enough to allow me to have acceptable action without angling the neck? If so, is there anything I can do to get the non-angled headstock working? String tree perhaps? Would I be better off scrapping this neck, writing off the $125 as lesson learned and getting something angled? Please excuse any obviously stupid questions! Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!