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Found 17 results

  1. Hi everyone, I just subscribed to the forum and i never built a guitar, but is my dream one day to do so and I'm already imagining how it would turn out. I have this general idea of a pickup configuration in mind and I don't think I ever seen a guitar exactly like it, i wonder why, and that's why I would like to ask you what you think. I would love a single coil in the neck position, a P-90 in the middle and a hambucker in the bridge, with a 5 way switch strat style: neck, neck and p-90, p-90, p-90 and humbucker, humbucker, with the humbucker being splittable (so that i could combine p-90 and split humbucker, or just a split humbucker in the bridge for that twang). What do you think? is it stupid? there's already guitars with this configuration out there? I think it would be just so versatile! Thank you very much in advance! Giovanni
  2. The Problem More often than not, I work with a mix of old pickups on a single guitar and no two color codes ever seem to be alike from one pickup to the next. Given a pickup with an unknown color code for the wires, there are many ways to solder it in the guitar wrong and only one way to get it right. This is a technique that I use to figure out the color code for any pickup, and to make sure that I get all the pickups installed in-phase. What you will need: A pickup to testA metal screwdriverA pencil and paper to take notesA voltmeterAlligator clips The Solution The first thing I do is draw a simple picture of the pickup as it would be in the guitar. I draw two coils and note where the bridge is and where the neck is. That may seem silly, but it helps me to visualize what I'm doing. This also is a big help later for when I actually install the pickup in the guitar. With the alligator clip leads, I connect the voltmeter to two wires on the pickup. For this pickup I have a bare ground wire, plus Blue, Red, White, and Black. Just as a guess I tried Red and Blue first. The voltmeter is set to read VDC (Volts DC). To test each coil, tap the long side of a metal screwdriver all along the magnets on the top of one coil. Give it one good tap and watch the voltmeter. The Red and Blue wires didn't show any reading on the meter when I tapped either of the coils. This means that those two wires do not go together. I tried the Red and Black wires next. Now, when I tap the coil closest to the bridge, I get a positive reading. When I pull the screwdriver off, I get a negative reading. This tells me that I have the Red and Black wires in-phase for that coil. I make a note on my drawing. I know that the White and Blue wires are for the other coil, but I do not know what the correct phase is. I alligator clip the probes to the White and Blue wires and tap the coil closest to the neck now. When I tap the coil with the screwdriver, I get a negative reading on the voltmeter. When I pull the screwdriver off the coil, I get a positive reading. This tells me that I have the coil is hooked up out-of-phase. I just flip the colors and put that on my notes. Now that I have this pickup drawn out on paper, I know how to connect it for series or parallel, or hook it up to a switch. But that is another whole topic....
  3. Hello everyone! I'm new to working on guitars and I've done a bit of research on this and haven't found any solid information. I picked up a Chibson because I liked the look of the guitar but thought I could easily swap out the pups after watching a tutorial or two. The problem I'm running into is that the guitar doesn't have any back plates and the tutorials I've watched required access to the volume/tone pots. I could be missing something simple here but could someone please explain how I'd go about swapping the pups on this guitar? Thanks in advance!
  4. The beautiful MSPaint diagram I created gives basically all the detail I can provide. The pots are from a 2011 Gibson Les Paul. I'm not sure what I'm trying to achieve is even possible without more components. Basically all I want is for each of the two pickups to have their own volume control knob. Seems simple enough! In the diagram it shows the two configurations I've soldered it in already following some online diagrams I found googling my plan. I'm glad I found this forum as it looks like has a wealth of knowledge! Thanks for any info anyone can provide! -Dylan
  5. Hi guys, I've been given an HSH pickups set not too long ago and while I already finished designing the guitar I'll used them on, I still haven't decided on how I'm going to wire-up the pups. For this build I want to understand what I'm doing instead of blindly following a wiring diagram. Electronics has been my nemesis for a very long time and now I decided to take the time to try and understand how it works. I already learnt quite a bit while finishing my pickup winder last month (I'll make a topic on that as soon as I get my new motor, I fried-it like a rookie when trying to measure the current ). Just today I finally solved the mystery of coil-splitting. I couldn't understand how the coil that stays on was different on the neck and bridge while the wiring is the same for each. Many diagrams do not show properly that the neck humbucker is flipped (or the bridge idk) so the coils are opposed to each other. Now to get back on topic, I have two questions regarding coil split: First, how do I figure out with which coil (adjustable or slug) the middle pickup will hum-cancel. I've read that it has to do with how the pickups is wired/wound and so it can vary from one band to another, Second, this one is a thought I had that I think may be crazy or may not work at all because I couldn't find anything on the internet. Normally, from what I understand, when combining the middle pickup with a coil-split humbucker, they are wired in parallel right? Is it possible to wire them in series to make a virtual humbucker? How would it sounds like? Is this crazy? For information the pickups are from an early 2000 Ibanez S model.
  6. Hey everyone I'm building a basswood 3 pickup destroyer, and am now looking for pickups. It will be using an Ibanez J-Craft Prestige (58mm heel) AANJ neck and a german 1984 Floyd Rose Video from the Painter upon completion I have always been a DiMarzio fan, and am familiar with their Super Distortions, Evolutions, X2N's, and Gravity Storms for decades. I figure in DiMarzio speak - a Super Distortion for the bridge, an Evolution for the Middle - and a Gravity Storm for the neck position. I'v been talking to Bare Knuckle Pickups and they're recommending: An Aftermath bridge Nailbomb Neck in the middle Cold Sweat Neck (where you need the cold sweats, eh?) They're custom. They're boutique. They're spendy. This guitar will be for sale (like my others) for a progressive metal player. I'm concerned they're $200 more than the DiMarzio set - but I really want this to be the ultimate rock- n=roller. Can I get some feedback from people that have used these? Thanks!
  7. Hi everyone, I have some question regarding basses in general and I was wondering if some of you could help me out. For starters, I'm not a bass player and so far I've only "played" about 15 minutes top with a bass I borrowed from a friend. A funny anecdote is that I was going to purchase an Ibanez (GIO) 5-strings bass just before I took my decision to start building instruments, so my budget went in tooling and material instead. And I told myself that I'd make one myself at some point. Fast-forward a year later, and I still don't have a bass and my desire to learn to play bass is starting to bug me a lot ! So the last month I've been working on my bass design and I'm closing-in on the final version. Now I'm starting to look for the hardware and electronics and I've realized that I'm really out of my element. I have almost no knowledge of brands for bass component (mainly electronics) and how they compare. After some research now I know about some big brands like Bartolini and Aguilar, but they look to me like big/premium brands and I would like to know about more budget friendly brands (aka bang for your bucks). So I would like to know more about what are the different brands of bass pickup makers and what is your experience with them. I would also like to know more about pre-amps in general, but also what are the brands and how they affect/relate to the pickups (e.g. cheap pre-amps \w expensive pickups, or vice-versa) Thank you in advance, any info is really appreciated. And by the way it may help to clarify that I'm planning on making a 6-string fretless bass .
  8. Hi everybody. I bought a set of 50 brass eyelets from Ebay and want to make some flatwork for a singlecoil pickup design. Just wondering if anybody had any good tricks on how to set the eyelets? There is a tool from stewmac to do this very thing, but if I could find a good way to do it without ordering it that would be a bonus. Thanks!
  9. This has been done before but I thought I'd share anyways. I just finished up a build that called for direct mounted pickups. I wanted these to be adjustable but more importantly I also wanted to preserve the threads in the pickup baseplate tab threads that normally get screwed up or drilled out by using regular wood screws to mount the pickups just in case I ended up pulling them out for any reason. I ended up using 2-56 Brass screw-to-expand inserts along with matching half inch 2-56 thread pan head screws from McMaster-Carr. These simply press into an eight inch pilot hole and are reinforced with a drop of CA glue. These screws are slightly smaller than the existing 3-48 threads in the pickup tabs. They do catch the existing threads just a bit but they will screw through the holes but will want to grab the pickup threads when fully inserted. To avoid any thread damage to the pickup I filed off about an eight inch of threads just underneath the screw head so it wouldn't damage the existing pickup threads once fully inserted and turned while adjusting. I did this by chucking up the screw in a drill and using a file under the head. I tried using these with two layers of foam under the pickup but the pickup could be pressed down pretty easily and felt kind of spongy. I fixed this by adding two pickup mounting springs cut in half. They are now quite firm and can be adjusted infinite times without worrying about the screw stripping out of the wood. Pretty simple but it works quite well.
  10. Hello everyone, I have some questions I hope you guys can answer, since I'm new to guitar modifications or customization. I bought this Ibanez Gio GRG250DX two years ago and I want to upgrade the pickups http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/eg_page15.php?year=2015&area_id=3&cat_id=1&series_id=9&data_id=191&color=CL01 Since it came with passive pickups I'd like it to have new passive pickups, I was thinking about buying EMGs, H4, H4a and S3 http://www.emgpickups.com/guitar/humbucking/passive-humbucking/h4.html http://www.emgpickups.com/guitar/humbucking/passive-humbucking/h4a.html http://www.emgpickups.com/guitar/single-coil/passive/s3.html I was wondering if I can install the 3 passive pickups with this wiring kit, or if is it possible to install 3 EMG passive pickups, I've been searching on google for diagrams but I can't find one that has an HSH guitar, and mostly the ones I find are for active pickups or just 2 passive pickups http://www.emgpickups.com/accessories/wiring-kits/wiring-kits/3-pickup-wiring-kit.html
  11. Hi guys, noob guitar tech wanabee here. I've lurked around this forum for a while, always learning something new, and I finally got around to making a profile. Anyway, I just bought a Lace Alumitone Humbucker pickup for my Ibanez Artcore and have been thinking of doing the refit (in the neck position) myself instead of paying a tech to do it. But I also want the switch wired so that in the neck position you can hear the neck pickup, in the middle you can hear the outer coil of the neck pickup, and in the bridge you can hear the inner coil of the neck + the whole of the bridge. I'm still very new to the logic of switch wiring so I can't come up with a schematic, but I'm hoping one of you guys can, if it's at all possible. A bit about the guitar's electronics: -The switch is a 3 way single pole switch. On/On/On or On/Off/On, I don't really know. -There are two volume and two tone pots. -2 pickups, both are humbuckers. I want to be able to accomplish this without too many changes, but I realize I may have to replace the switch with a double or triple pole and maybe disconnect some of the pots or wire them differently, and I'd be willing to do those things. I want to avoid drilling holes and such to add new hardware, plus I don't really want to have multiple switches for extra combinations, since those are the only 3 I would use if I had them. So if you guys think this is doable and can make a schematic, I'd appreciate the input. Thanks.
  12. I just finished installing the Stew Mac Parsons street PAF's in my old Epiphone Sheraton ii. I also put in a harness from BCS guitar with the Bournes mini pots. (I was too lazy to make my own.) The quality of the harness is top notch: great soldering and I like the schematic and mods they used rather than many I've seen on the internet. The pickups are AMAZING! Turned the guitar into an ES-335. They sound like PAF's and fully bring out the semi-hollow sound. They are very clear - almost too clear and deliver a lot of "punch". I found I needed to tone done the brightness on both pickups to get the sound I wanted. I found in playing with distortion the pickups do not require very much to give them the "growl". I used the Alnico 5 in the neck and the Al 2 in the bridge. The only downside is that the al 2 doesn't have quite as much output. Possibly a soldering issue? I'm not willing to disassemble the setup at this time to figure that out ( you know what its like to install an ES-335 harness!) Based on this experience I may try their Tele pickups for my build. I bought the PAF's with the gold covers. Excellent deal for $118! One other issue: Go to the Stew Mac home page first before going to the Parsons Street page. For some reason if you go directly to the pickups page from your search engine, the pups are $148 for the set!
  13. is there a way to wire a mighty mite 4 conductor pickup as a single coil?
  14. So i am a proud, scratch that very proud owner of a first generation Peavey Vandenberg serial no. 00000840.ok that wasn' the original reason for posting but after a bit of probling i was looking into the pickups and i dig the single coil but its very, very weak. peavey documentation describes both pickups as medium high output alnico 2. and this is a 6.8k pickup in the neck i have had squier pickups hotter than that. however i digress after a closer listening and inspection i thought that it was a short because sometimes it sounds better than usual and sometimes its thin city so i checked all the wiring and the pickup itself and nothing seems wrong same reading as a few weeks ago when i bought it. So i am going to wind an old replacement pickup a bit hotter with some heavier wire and then drop it in. of course keeping the original pickup. but for a quick drop in single coil what kind of replacement would be good? the body is poplar and i have no solid experince with this wood and the last time i had a non traditional strat with a neck single was years ago so i am a bit at a loss. also i have a few pics of my 37ga wire p-90 and Single Coil that i wound by hand and potted tonight. i have yet to install them as the wax is drying and they still need leads soldered on. but the weirdest thing is i wound both of these rather quick piling on way more wire [well there is more wire bulging off the form than before. i realize that it is a bigger wire but the p 90 from duncan only had on its form half of the space used and measured 11.1k. i wound it till it was spilling off the sides and got about 1.5k so we will see if these little buggers will even do anything lol] super low resistance, i know the larger wire you get less resistance but i wonder if there is a formula for gauge vs winds vs resistance or simply guage length resistance. well any help would be appreciated and i will post some better pics of pickups and guitar soon my phone is dying ciao for now
  15. G'day everyone, I'm new, as you can tell by my topic title. An old work colleague comes on here all the time and has built a few guitars in the past, and he's sent me across here to learn and participate. I am about to embark on my first ever build. It should be interesting indeed. Before I fill you in, my set up currently includes: Vox AC30, Gibson SG (61 reissue), Signature series Fender Telecaster (1995), and a bunch of pedals... and this old girl, who is going to be my first victim. She's an old school Epiphone LP-300 - the cheapo Les Pauls that pre-dated the LP-100. She was my first guitar and has sat dormant for over 15 years. So what's the plan? Complete ground up build, including: Active pickups (looking at a set of 60/81 EMG) Bigsby temolo New Wiring Re-finish New machine heads New bridge etc Stay tuned. I would love some advice, and will hopefully become a regular on here and keep you all updated, often. Cheers
  16. Special thanks go out to Sondra (my betrothed/candlemaking guru), Gabe Nickelson, pri0531 and Sebastian from the forum over at jemsite.com, for pointing me in the right direction. WARNING – WAX IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS NEAR AN OPEN FLAME - MOLTEN WAX IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK - BE INFORMED, SAFE AND WORK RESPONSIBLY Tools required to pot pickups: A double boiler (I used a large metal measuring cup place inside the boiler)Electric stove top or hot plate (open flame is a no-no)Candle making or candy thermometerRubber bandsPliers or tongsBeeswaxCanning waxPaper towels Remove your pickup(s) from your guitar. Wrap a few rubber bands around your pickup to hold the bobbin tape together while its being dipped. The glue or whatever holding the tape can melt and make a HUGE mess (or so I’m told).Fill the double boiler about halfway with water. Place the inside part of your double boiler into the water.If needed, break up the wax into small cubes. Use your judgment on the amount of wax to use I needed a pound and a half to provide enough liquid to completely submerge my pickup. And when it was all over I had quite a bit of wax left over. StewMac recommends a wax mixture of 20% beeswax and 80% canning wax. Mine was more 50/50.SLOWLY turn the heat on the stove and attach the thermometer to the inside of the smaller pot.Stir the mixture around until it’s a consistent liquid. DO NOT LET THE MIXTURE GET MUCH PAST 150°F/65°C – The wax melts at 148°F degrees so that’s as hot as you need it to be.Use the tongs to hold your pickup – BE careful WAX IS HOT – (duh). And dip it into the mixture. Wiggle it around until there are no more visible air bubbles. Repeat this every 5 minutes or so to make completely sure you're getting full saturation (sounds like an ad for Peavey).After about 20 minutes you should be good to go. Remove the pickup from the wax and place it on a paper towel to cool. Wipe off the excess wax.After a few minutes when the wax looks like its almost completely cooled remove the rubber bands.Let cool for another couple of hours. Put the pickup back in your guitar and Whola!!
  17. You will be dealing with boiling water and extremely hot wax so use caution Water spilled into hot wax can react violently - ensure the two cannot mix Molten wax is highly flammable - remove all sources of ignition Molten wax causes severe burns - wear hand and eye protection, cover all exposed skin Start out bringing a half to two thirds of a pot of water to just barely boiling. Whilst waiting on the water to start boiling, grab a empty soda can and take the lid off (if you use a standard can opener it takes a few turns but will eventually come off). Cube 1/2lb (~227g) of paraffin wax and fill as much of it as possible into the can. Once your water has come to a boil, turn off the heat. Grab your can and hold it in an upright position in the middle so it doesn't tip over and watch the wax melt (keep adding the left over pieces as space permits). Try to add beeswax once your original 1/2 lb. of wax has melted. I used a candle made from pure beeswax which allows the wax to stay pliable much longer. Paraffin wax starts to melt around 100°F (37°C) and beeswax higher at 150°F (65°C). A digital meat thermometer works great to monitor the wax temperature. Aim for a little over 150°F (65°C) to allow the beeswax to melt properly and blend with the paraffin wax, however stick below 176°F (80°C) simply out of safety. Anything higher, carefully lift the can up out of the water. It will take a long time for the wax to drop down fifty degrees and harden back up so no need to rush anything. Wrap your pickup with a rubber band to keep the bobbin tape and its adhesive from coming undone. I am doing this to a pair of new pickups so the bobbin tape adhesive holds up really well. Start dipping in the wax and tap it on the bottom a couple of times to release any bubbles. The pickup can sit there for a couple of minutes to let the wax penetrate the windings and displace any air pockets. Raise your pickup out of the wax and dip it again to build up a nice heavy outside coat of wax. While the pickup is cooling, check the wax temperature. If it has dropped significantly below 150°F, carefully remove the can and place it well out of the way. Heat the water for a minute. Turn off the heat, replace the can carefully and monitor the wax temperature until it stabilises. Grab any other pickups you may need to be potting and repeat the process. After a pickup has cooled off a bit (about 3-5 minutes) it is safe to take off the rubber band and go for a couple of more quick dips! You can do this in the same session, or let the wax fully harden off and do it some other time. A second dip is always good. Here's a tip for later that only costs a buck or less, grab a cheap plastic ice cube tray and place it on top of some cool water in a bake pan. Using tongs or pliers pour your extra wax in the tray and let it cool so you can reuse later on when you need to pot more pickups. Be super careful not to accidentally spill hot wax into the water! Now that your pickups have cooled off (about 4-8 minutes) You can start cleaning off the top, I just use my fingernail because I really don't want to scratch the surface. Cleaning the tops with tough paper towels will take care of the rest of the wax buildup and buff the surface - you're good to go! All nice and freshly potted with a thin coat of protection. Don't forget to wrap your wax after it cools since you do not want any contaminants getting in there during storage!
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