MK

3dGuitarsbyRio

Cheers

Peter Rich.

I am new to the site and have just started transitioning from traditional hand-building of guitars to working with a CNC machine. I was wondering if anyone knew where I might be able to commission someone to help me get started with some customisation. I am currently learning how to use Vectric by Aspire and have made a few off-the-shelf plans, but I want to create a plan for a bolt-on telecaster neck using 25-inch scale length with Trapezoid inlays and my own custom headstock (flat-like tele not angled).

Are there any members who can do this and what would it cost. 

Im using Rhino3D and RhinoCAM to build guitars with my CNC. I just started doing guitars and I know RhinoCAM (RC) since about 4 years.

I have a 1000Z CNC-Step cnc which is quite nice, 1000x600x110mms of cutting area. I've had it for 5-6 years and delivers amazing quality.

The big difference with other CAD artists out there is that I use almost exclusively a Rhino3D module/plugin called Grasshopper (GH) to do all the design. Almost no drawing tools used within the Rhino3D interface. 

The basic body shape is an outline imported from a CAD file and the rest is drawn using GH using the draft's size and distance measures.

Everything that can be CNC'ed was modeled and I added the option to change the following parts too:
- Body shape
- Scale of fret board
- Inlays for fret board
- Neck head shape
- additional pickups (std pickets, but im modeling humbuckers and different bridges later)

Also the neck profile can be changed, the fret board dome radius, pickguard,

It's all based on a telecaster - so the lespaul looks (or scale) can be used also. Continued in next post...

 

Thanks,

Javier 

I really want to build some guitars, currently converting a cheapo Strat into a Frankenstrat and finding it very interesting.

I know that the learning curve is VERY steep on these things but I have the bug. I don't have loads of funds hence why I am looking at the cheaper end of things and need some advice. I am currently looking at the Fox Alien Masuter Pro which is reasonably cheap and it does have an extension kit option. It starts at 40 x 40cm  which is quite small and just about wide enough but certainly not long enough hence why the extension part would be needed.

The question/s I have are 

1. I know its a false economy (although I already have a route) but others are so much more expensive

2. Is it possible to build a jig so that I can build half, reset and then build the other half?

One of the main reasons I want to do this is because the tooling I would need to buy plus jigs and templates etc would probably cost similar and I do like to learn new things and am currently enjoying a 3d printer I am currently using

What do you think

Thank You

I've been learning CNC to build guitars, but one thing that's been a frustration is getting two-sided builds to come out with virtually no misalignment.

Historically, I've had a few missteps that have resulted in significant misalignment. Today's process is:

• Placing the blank on the CNC.
• Drilling two holes along the center line (ish)
• Placing the blank on a pair of fixturing pins in a fixture plate from Saunders Machine Works.
• Securing the blank so it doesn't wander.
• Setting zero based on the top and center of the material. I'm finding the center by going corner to corner.

Unfortunately, there's still 1/8" - 1/16" misalignment between the top and bottom of the body. It's not awful and can be taken off with a table router, but I'm wondering:

How do y'all ensure that you can reliably flip a guitar on the CNC so you can do two-sided work?

How deep pass? 0.25mm? What's an average without breaking?

How slow feed speed?

Drill or ramp? I can see both methods would put different strain on such a fine bit, the ramp would flex it, but then the drill would apply pressure when the x or y movement begins

Curious to hear your experiences. Thanks.

so... as curtisa suggested I used my cnc bits as the pins to locate the piece... and while this is a great idea... I felt like I wanted to use the butt end of them because there would be less chance of wobble... and that means pulling them back out with my fingers and risking a cut... or pulling them with a pliers and risking damaging the knifes.  Further, my shorter 1/4 bits are really only 1.75" total... and going through 1/4 fretboard + 3/4" slide board + 1/4" depth of cut for location hole... doesn't leave much.  I also wanted to scratch/mark them so I can be sure of the depth - but not doing that on my bits...

so with that in mind I figured I'd take a chance on the precision of the steel locating pins I could buy off amazon.  

well... bought them and checked them against the holes I cut with my whiteside bit and they are perfect... just wanted to pass on in case anyone else can benefit - link below.  $13.49 for 10 pins and money well spent.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DCHYQK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

That said, the person was using DeskCNC, their documentation is less than friendly and that is about the extent of the software that was there. What would be a good design software for a first timer? It has been 30yrs since I did any designing and that was on a piece of paper, using a ruler and pencil. I see a lot of people discussing this Mach 3 Software, would that be something to replace the DeskCNC? Honestly I have yet to figure out even how to get a demo circle to the board, so when I say I know nothing, I know less than that.

I am just glad that I figured out what was going on with the motors and which I believe was the reason this person had never done anything with it. If there are publications that you think would be good points of reference throw them my way, until then I will continue to mess around with the software and build my guitars by hand. The reason I purchased this unit was to save myself and my son time when doing logos and names on the fretboard. I would like to do much more with it, but just taking one step at a time.

Thank you for any advice or direction.

Been really trying to learn this new tool in Rhino7 called sub-d. I took my LP model that I did in Rhino6 nurbs mesh and converted it to a Quadmesh, then Sub-D model. With a few pushes and pulls here and there, I have refined that even more than what Nurbs can do. I am really pleased with the results of this new tool.

My next step on this journey is to do all of this in Sub_D only. Another learning curve with everything else going on as well in my life. LOL

MK

HI. I am considering using a 1" (25.4mm) roundover bit - without the bearing, see photo.
For feeds & speeds how should I think of it? V-bit, End mill, form bit?
In ferreting out info from various sites the speeds & feeds are frightening to me .
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.

A friend of mine has a nice CNC with which he uses VCarve.   He has used it some but still learning.  Do any of you happen to have VCarve or Aspire file for making a radiused sanding block?  I am making my first guitar and I am going to radius the neck to 12".  I purchased an 8" long sanding block from StewMac but would really like to make some of my own instead of pay so much.  I couldn't afford the Aluminum (or Aluminium for you Brits!  ) so I opted for the cheaper one made from wood.   It  would be exponentially cheaper if I could just make my own but I haven't been successful.  His CNC is very nice.  So, the real question is does anyone have a file for VCarve or Aspire you would be willing to share so my friend can import it into his computer and get the G Code?   Lookin for 12" radius initially but would certainly love to have multiples.

Thanks in advance!
Chris

I have tried to read about cnc machines on various websites and got nowhere. Please could I get some advice from you experienced people on building a cnc machine and making one of adequate size to cut templates from 10mm (max) and possibly the backs of guitar necks. I have not tried making a neck yet and shaping is something I dread. 

I have some experience with electronics and programming. I can learn those things when I need to. I am more concerned with overall size of machine and size/type of motors. I have a katsu palm router and I see similar things used as the cutting tool. I have experience with arduino from my HNC electronics course.

What would be the maximum size of the machine (approx) if i just wanted to make basic body and neck templates?

Thanks

Simon

(I've attached an incorrect 2D model and a video explaining what I'm looking for.)

1. Develop 3D model
2. Generate CNC code
3. run the CNC mill
4. Glue neck and wings together,
5. Reiterate if it's way off (step 1)
6. modify result by hand

I have a guy for step 1 & 2; do the 3D modeling, calculate the center of mass, and generate the CAD files.He's in a foreign country and there is a bit of a trust issue with this random dude from Facebook, so I'm open to working with someone local on that, too.I’ve attached the 2d draft and a 2 minute video explaining the differences between the 2-D draft and what the prototype should look like.

I need a local CNC router and operator to build a prototype in Mountain View, CA. The prototype will be just unplayable and have no strings or anything on it — just wood shape.

For the 3D model, I found a guy online who can do the graphical model, and calculate center of mass, in software, and generate CNC codes.

The 3D dude is in one of those South American countries like Venezuela or something. It seems a bit sketchy to send him $600 up front, but he did actually listen to what I was looking for and sent me something kind of similar based on that. 

So if I pay this dude for his 3D model, I'll need someone locally to run the CNC code.

I tried local maker shop "Maker Nexus" but couldn't find help there. Tried the Shapeoko beginners Facebook group, too. Nobody there, either.  

GS-Custom.pdf

goals:

cut inlay from blanks, cut corresponding inlay channel

make knobs

make pickup covers

budget: I guess I'd like to know what a realistic budget for a small cnc setup is... but is $300 enough to get a small machine?  I could probably spend more, but not looking to invest a lot at this point.

I know I've seen a few threads from @Prostheta here, but have some specific questions and would like recommendations.

1) can you recommend a cnc machine?  don't really want to build as not mech inclined... but am inclined on the computer side.

2) free cad/cam program?

3) thread recommendations?

Need your little help. Can you guys help me selecting best CNC router bit. The competition is between  Freud vs Bosch vs Whiteside .

Althrough i read a article on it :- https://theedgecutter.com/freud-router-bits-review/

I think fred router bit is best. But still can't come on a decision.

Can you tell me your opinion.

Thanks in advance  

PRS and LP style.  Working on neck models for these as well.

mk