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Prostheta

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Prostheta last won the day on March 30

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About Prostheta

  • Rank
    "Looks just like a Telefunken U-47"
  • Birthday 07/18/1976

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  • Location
    Raisio, Suomi

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  1. Unimogs are a thing of fascination for me, but then again so are things like the BMW R50/60.
  2. "Overbuilt to standard" eh? One would think that doing a job correctly was pouring money down the drain and in fact, not doing one's job correctly. It fucking cranks me when I am expected to lower basic standards or cut corners. It pretty much undermines all qualifications, experience and sense, not to mention pride and the ability to stand beside one's work. Like I'm sure I've mentioned before, if something I do meets my personal standard (which isn't a measure of arrogance, just basic box-ticking) then I'll write my name in it somewhere. Because I know.
  3. Pretty much. That's why you'd want your vintage US car resto project to come from Arizona and not Florida!
  4. I can't say that I've heard that one directly myself. It sounds a little hyperbolic, perhaps more like a way of playing down the lack of quality in modern manufacturing and materials? None of these materials exist in a vacuum! Even A4/316 stainless isn't completely resistant to saltwater. It might just be that 29 Palms is drier than most places as well. Who knows what was in the mind of the person making that statement, eh?
  5. Fewer manufacturers and fewer variations in steel types available for fabrication perhaps? That would greatly reduce corrosion from galvanic coupling between metals of dissimilar composition. That and actually being aware of why one paints or applies electrolytic grease? I use copper grease religiously on my wheel nuts and hub mating faces for that exact reason, especially during winter.
  6. Working in mostly marine architecture and the like, I can attest to the amount of sloppy work that I see being put out into cruise liners. Simple things like the choice of plastic isolating pads from aluminium structures secured to steel deck plates and bulkheads. The cheap and sloppy way is to use what is on hand....plexi? Nope. Nope. PET-G or PVC ideally. What makes them so long-lived as ocean waste is the exact reason one would use them for certain tasks in alkaline marine exposure. I have seen people trying to use A2/304 stainless fasteners in place of the correct A4/316 equivalents.
  7. A big cloud of Birch and Hazel pollen has flown over from central Europe which seems to be firing up our sneezeboxes early. I'm normally a late summer sniffler, but seem to be an easter dribbler instead. Yay, the rest is yet to come. What next? 'king zombies?
  8. I made an Oak Tele with a Walnut neck for a friend in Espoo a while back....the body was shockingly heavy, and I thought it wouldn't sound good. As it turns out, the tone on that was unreal. JB in the bridge, custom Rautia Tele neck with 4-way switching. Epicly huge sounding, a treat with the right verbs and ambience.
  9. I'd say that once you get into the realms of proscriptive "advice", learning stops. Understanding why one wouldn't leave tape under there and why you'd want to use tape in the first place generates knowledge, not rote aping. Leaving heavy tape under the fingerboard has all manner of potential issues that I just wouldn't want in a good neck. Firstly, it makes it more difficult to generate adequate clamping pressure along the edges of the fingerboard since the centre is jacked up from the gluing plane. Rim clamps help, but the easiest way is to remove the problem in the first place; rip the tape
  10. Oof! Maybe not painter's tape. Something thinner like veneering tape, maybe. That stuff is meant to disappear under a joint. I've always ripped back a tape mask and never had issues with glue contaminating the rod to the point of dysfunction. Only if you use an entire bottle, perhaps! That test is pretty much all you can do short of destructive testing to find the failure point. I love LMII/Allied Lutherie's rods though. Those are about as close to engineered as is reasonable. Torquing a welded adjuster triggers something in me. If it were a single-acting rod with a threaded nut bearing agains
  11. It's reasonably solid. When using a spindle sander, you don't apply a high level of lateral pressure. The sandpaper should do the work for you. For something as thick as a guitar body, it is better at smoothing edges rather than shaping them. Surface finishing, not stock removal.
  12. I'd say yes. It's worth it for the money, but falls short of what you'd expect for a light trade rated machine.
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