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Question about round over on a body


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I am getting close to being ready to do the round over on my Ash Strat body. I am concerned about router tear out while doing the round over on the front two cut-aways.

I have though about this and think it will be a good idea to clamp a piece of scrap from my body blank close to the actual body to give the router base and even and firm suface to ride while making the curves around the cut-aways. I am just a bit nervous about this as I have gotten this far with my body and would hate to ruin it by tearing out chunks when I do this.

I'm curious, do any of you do this on a router table rather than doing it from the top of the piece freehanded ? What are your thoughts on which method is safer and/or easier and/or less likely to result in tear out ? :D

Another question, do you take the round over all the way to the heel pocket , or stop just a little bit short and finish of by hand with sanding ? I have been looking at my MIM Strat and its kind of hard to tell. I also noticed that the round over on the back of the body looks like it may be smaller than the front. I saw where someone on here stated that Fender uses a 3/8" round over on Strats, and that looks like it is probably right on the front, but the back looks to be more like 1/4".

Anyway, thanks for any suggestions anyone might have !

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Because the curves on a guitar body can run against the grain tearout can be a problem. What I do to eliminate tearout, and burning, is to roundover with a smaller radius first, then roundover with the final radius.

I attempted to roundover a body once (*ONCE*) not using a router table. The tricky part is keeping the router base flat on the body. It can be done, but the router table really makes it easier! I used the tecnique you described by using the leftover cutaways from shaping the body.

The riskiest part is usually the tip of the horns. Normally you want to rout with the grain but it's not always possible. I try to roundover the body by moving it up agsinst the bit and moving it in a straight line when possible, moving it away from the bit when the grain curves, then doing the same at different angles until I've gotten the roundovers over the tricky parts.

I also find it much easier to move the body at a steady rate (to minimize burning) than using the router freehand.

Mike Hale

Ellis Guitars

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hey there fender4me...i've routed roundovers both ways. if you have a router table you're certainly going to be more in control of the process. however, if you can clamp your body down, route up to your clamp and then re-clamp you can get good results. just remember to keep a little pressure on the router aimed toward the body. did that make sense? if you keep a little more pressure on the inboard handle of your router you're less likely to rock it and get an uneven cut.

as to taking the roundover all the way to the heel pocket it depends on whether you're bolting your neck on with a plate or with inserts. if you're using a plate stop your route an inch or so before the heel, mount your neck and then finish by hand. on most of my guitars i use inserts and route all the way around the heel.

hope that helps a little. good luck!

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Thanks Mike ! Good information. I have been chewing on it and have not decided yet which method would be best. I am concerned that using a router table means that the body is free (i.e. not clamped) and the bit may grab it and pull it away from my hands thus creating the tear out. But your idea of doing the round over with a smaller radius (like 1/4") sounds reasonable. That way the bit is not taking such a big bite all at once.

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I've seen photos where people routed the roundover before they ever cut the body. I'm thinking about trying this method. You do all the routing on the blank, roundovers, neck pocket, and all cavities, and then cut it out. I think it would work very well.

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Some woods tear out easier than others. eg. mahogany is looser grained and softer than maple. If your router has variable speed then set it at the highest. Make sure router bits are sharp and travel slow if you plan on doing it in one pass. Setting the bit in the chuck is also very important. The end of the upper curve should be level with the router base. If you start to see a small ledge appear on the upper curve of your rout then your bit is slipping out of the chuck.

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It shouldn't be a problem to do it freehand without any support, i just finished doing my ash body on my first guitar and did it with a 1/4 inch roundover bit. I didn't have any tearout, just some slight burning. This was my first time (besides practicing a little on scrap) and I was really happy about the result. Oh yeah and I'm only 14.

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Just an update. Did the round over on my Ash body this weekend. Turned out great ! I decided to use the router table method, and practiced first on a scrap body shape I had cut out from some old Pine planks.I checked the round over on my MIM Strat and it was the 3/8" roundover radius so that is what I used also.

I did get a little bit of ledge on the edges of the round over, but that all sanded out fairly easily. I'm really happy with it !The only remaining thing to do on the body is to cut or sand or route the body contours.

After that, I just have to drill all the holes for the tremolo, pickguard, rear cavitiy cover, jack plate etc... Then I begin the aruous process of sanding and prepping for the finish. Wish me luck.

Edited by Fender4me
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