LGM Guitars

Well, is it? http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=20544 (note: I mean this as a joke response to a question that I feel is completely innappropriate to this forum, not to be taken seriously)

The lowest action I ever acheived without buzzing was 0mm, but I could only play E, A, D, G, B, E off the 24th fret, but damn it was low and fast action, I could play those notes as fast as I could strum back and forth, didn't matter how far I bent the note either, they never fretted out!

Leasing in an industrial area, even if my property here was big enough, residential isn't zoned for a paint shop so I wouldn't be able to do a paint shop on my property anyway.

Hey everyone, Things are moving slower than I'd hoped for, this city is NOT easy to get along with when it comes to getting permits and such. Paint booth is STILL 2 or 3 weeks away which really sucks as there are 2 cars here waiting to be done, along with many guitars. Can't do much wood work as I haven't been able to get the permit to build my wood room in the shop yet either. Need to make a dust room so I don't end up with dust everywhere the paint stuff will be. I took some pics but I can't remember the address to my file upload section (it's in favorites on my other computer) so I can't put them up just yet, hopefully I'll remember to write it down tomorrow!

Don't know where you got that it was CNC made, I've never owned a CNC in my life. I worked in machine shops with CNC, but I sure don't have one. It's hand made

Reduced to $350 for the body with all hardware.

The problem is, you have already sprayed your base color with the red duplicolor. If that is a laquer, you want to use a laquer clear, or a 2 part clear. If you are going to use enamels then do a test sample first, but it still does not solve your problem of the graphic. If you paint with ANY solvent based paint over that red, it is going to soften and lift the red. ANY solvent based paint, this includes but is not limited to.......... Laquer Enamel Urethane Varathane base urethane etc etc etc The ONLY way you'll get away with using any of the above paints, is if you spray a water based clear coat over the red first to seal it. Then paint your graphic, but even then you'll have to use a compatible clear for whatever paint you used for your graphic to seal that. There are lots of acrylic clears that are available from walmart type stores, just use one of them. Acrylic paints to do the graphic with will be available at almost any hobby shop.

Item for sale: The very first ever Leviiathan guitar. Prototype #1 In Bloodburst finish with Leviathan tribal inlay. Description & Condition: Excellent Asking Price: $2000USD My Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal, certified check, money order. Other Information: This is the VERY first Leviiathan guitar ever built. The one I swore I'd never sell, but sadly the leasing company wants a much bigger down payment for the new paint booth than was expected so some more stuff has to go. This guitar has an alder body, maple neck with flame maple board. Floyd rose 7, Evolution 7 bridge and Blaze 7 neck. There are a few slight changes from this guitar to the production model, most noticable are the shape of the pickup routes. The guitar plays incredibly well, has fantastic action and sounds fantastic. Nice string balance all around and you can get an open harmonic off of nearly every single fret on the neck. Comes with certificate stating that this is Leviiathan #1, hardshell case, and dimarzio clip lock strap. Must go quickly! If the leasing company decides to give me the lease with the downpayment I requested I will be pulling this ad. If you want a kickass leviiathan, and some real LGM history, this is it. Replacement cost for this guitar as a production instrument would be $2250. I am asking $2000 shipped in the lower 48 or Canada. No trades please. lgm@lgmguitars.com Jeremy http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...oodburst_02.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_1.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_2.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_3.jpg

is it just chrome plated? Best way to cut it if you don't want to damage the chrome finish is with water jet. Saws will probably chip it, and abrasive wheels will heat it and discolor it most likely, but then, I don't know what type of metal it is, how thick, what type of chrome it is etc. There are a lot of variables in this

The one shot has the same problems over the laquer base that he's used though. I use one shot for pinstripping over base automotive paint, but if I haven't put a barrier coat of clear down first it will affect the base paint too and base automotive is a little more resiliant than laquers. Plus, he's already said what clear he has and is planning to use, and the laquer clear he's using will attack the one shot if he sprays it on as a final clear.

You didn't get what I said. The clear will be fine since a) you're spraying it, and it was designed for the red you sprayed (I'm assuming) The problem with using a solvent based paint over ANY solvent based laquer, is the solvent in the paint (testors in this case) will soften the laquer, with the friction of the brush it will pull up whatever color you have underneath. you'll end up with quite a ridge as well as the bottom color pulling through. Then, when you spray the clear OVER the graphic you want to hand paint, the testors paint will again react with the clear, your testors will wrinkle and lift. That is why I said use an acrylic paint. The solvents won't react with the water based paints.

Way big by the forum rules. Testors paints will probably lift the red underneath and create problems just painting, but worse yet, it will wrinkle and lift when you spray a clear laquer on it. You'll have to use an acrylic paint probably. Something that is NOT solvent based. Laquers are not good to work with since they will continue to affect the paint under them, and all solvents will attack laquers. If you're using model paints, then there are brands like Pactra, Polly S, Tamiya etc. Createx airbrush paints don't brush great, but you can use them.

Ok, real quick here since I'm not at home......... 2 part Poly's have the clear, and an activator, those are the 2 parts, reducer is a 3rd part. Single part poly's are the furniture crud that you can reduce and spray and pour back in the can if you want. You try pouring 2 part paints back in the can, you'll have a block of paint, nothing sprayable. Next, I don't care if you have a well ventilated room, spraying 2 part poly's without a fresh air system (forced air) is a bad idea. Spraying 2 part poly's outdoors is illegal in I believe every state. (spraying laquer is illegal in many states) The 2 part poly's absorb through skin and eyes as well, nothing short of a full mask, gloves and suit is enough protection for 2 part poly's. My new shop will have a full size booth developed for those paints, it's STILL not enough. But it's your life, there is a reason I am so adamant about the 2 part paints and safety, but now, the choice is yours, I don't care if you're 17 or 70, this stuff will take years off your life, it's up to you. But also remember your neighbors, friends, family, pets, everything will be affected if you DO NOT take proper precautions!

I don't know what you want to spend, but a good mid line gun that isn't that expensive are the astro guns. http://www.coastairbrush.com/pages/42.html 3rd and 4th down the page. For guitars, I wouldn't really use bigger than a 1.00mm nozzle if you're not spraying a bunch at once. My bigger concern is, if you are planning to spray 2 part poly's, do you have a forced air breathing apparatus? If you don't, you have 2 choices, buy one, or take many years off your life. Don't screw around with this stuff, take it seriously, it is an isocyanate and it will kill you. Artificial air and a paint booth are IMO must have's with this stuff, no joke.

I don't agree with it being NECESSARY to have seperate guns, I do, but then I spray a ton of paint too. But, if he uses that gun to spray high solid primers, it will be way to big of a tip to spray base and clear. It's probably at least a 2mm tip if he is spraying high solid primers (of course he may not be spraying high solids) And if you are cleaning your guns properly, you should never have the problems of stuff flying out. There is always a possibility, but I feel confident that I could spray clear with any of my guns and have no problems.

Read post 2 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1892 Don't buy a gun based on what it costs, there are some guns out there that are sold on name and not quality, Binks is tough to figure out, some stuff is great, some sucks, but it's all pricey, Sharpe is the same way. About the only company that EVERYTHING they make is stellar is Sata but they're expensive. Figure out what YOU need and shop around, if you're buying a gun based on price you're buying for the wrong reasons, you need to buy based on what your needs are and then buy the best quality you can find, not the best price, but not necessarily the most expensive either.

Dude, chill, I just looked back at his posts and see 3 designs, one of which he is standing there with a template of or something. If you're sick of seeing designs instead of actual builds stop looking. As for the guitar, I'm not crazy about it, I don't think the headstock really suits the body shape, and I would move the lower horn back or make the upper curve bigger, I don't really care for guitars where the lower horn sticks out further than the upper section. Just my opinion though

What the heck, I submit for your viewing pleasure: Shane Regals Leviiathan "Mrs Butterworth" (get it, cuz of all the maple ) Specs. Ash body with 7/8" thick Flame maple top. Flame maple fretboard and headstock overlay Hard rock maple neck Dunlop 6105 fretwire Dimarzio Evolution neck and bridge Graphtech Piezo system, total stereo seperation (can run it to 2 seperate amps, or both together) Gold side dot inlays. 11 coats of Clear 2 Part Polyurethane Laser etched truss rod cover and battery cover (ash cavity covers) Electronics cavity http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2901.JPG Back shot with all cavity's http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2900.JPG Headstock http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2899.JPG Front of body http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2898.JPG Cavity covers and truss rod cover http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2896.JPG Gold dot inlays http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2891.JPG Neck joint http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2888.JPG Full guitar http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2883.JPG Check out the thickness of that top!!!!!! http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans...le/IMGP2890.JPG

How about if I split it up? Body $200 Lopro Edge 7 trem complete with locknut and tuners $200

Joseph, No worries man, let me know what happens with the pedal Jeremy

← And I will have to respectfully disagree with your disagreement I've had many bike frames powder coated. In order to get a functionally hard powder coat, it goes on fairly thick. I am relating the thickness to your comment about powder coat outlasting chrome, it won't, plain and simple. I've seen chrome trems that are 30 years old and still not worn, but I've seen powder coat bridges that didn't last 2 years without the edges wearing through. If you go thick enough to alleviate the wear factor parts won't fit right. Everytime a bike frame is powder coated you need to go back and retap all the threaded holes if the powder coater was to lazy to put plugs in or you'll never get bolts in them. As I said previously, you can powder coat thin enough that it will work, but it won't outlast a high quality epoxy paint. I've been involved in the paint industry and the metal working industry long enough to have seen countless examples of all these different mediums. Powder coat is awesome, it's tough as nails, but when it's applied super thin it's no tougher than a good quality epoxy paint, and that will never outlast a quality chrome job.

Couple things.......... First of all, Anodizing is NOT an option, can't anodize steel, ONLY aluminum Secondly Powder coat will never outlast chrome assuming a GOOD quality chrome is applied Third Powder coat add's way more thickness than chrome, you have to take into account the thickness of powder coat, most floyds won't fit back together properly after powder coating unless the powder coat layer is done very thin in which case it won't outlast a high quality epoxy paint. Fourth, High quality epoxy paint is expensive, and it's deadly toxic, it's the only type of paint that will last on a bridge very long though. 2 part poly's will last ok in the clear, but again, you have to put it on quite thin for the parts to fit again. There is a reason that bridges are plated, it's the best wearing finish available plain and simple. Painting is fine, but don't expect much longevity out of it.

Just sent you a PM back. All I can think of is the adapter in the box hit the pot you said you found broken. I tried the pedal before shipping and it worked fine, in PM I offered to refund the money or refund 50% if it could be fixed. Wish you'd kept the whole thing in PM though, don't want anyone thinking I sent you a broken pedal. I promise you that it worked before shipping. Either way, I'm not going to leave you hanging on this. Jeremy

Reduced to $400

I think I could make one of those for about 50 bucks..... dosent look that complicated, whats so special about it? got to be something I cant see.... ← It's obvious you've never priced out linear bearings just to get started. Building one will cost you at least the $750 he was hoping for out of this one.