DCord

Floyd Rose Locking Nuts Stamp on Bottom

R2 is generally used for a close or tight radius neck such as a 8" or 10" radius

R4 is generally used for a wider radius neck such as a 12" on up

No, No, NO.

The stamps on the bottom correspond to the WIDTH of the nut.

~d~

At least, that's what I was taught.

i don't think so.it would have to be at least as high as the bottom of a nut slot

...which should be the exact height of the first fret.

~d~

I had one of those, only mine was a '75. Gibson made quite a few standards with Deluxe necks (or Deluxes with standard bodies, if that's how you want to look at it). I *loved* that guitar, I miss it daily.

Congrats!

~d~

Why do you have to do that to me???

~d~

Right now I am staring at Rondomusic website. I found really beautifull looking Ovation copy with beautiful abalone, quilted maple combination: LINK        I think I've invented new term. C.G.A.S.  C stands for cheap

Naaaah, I've been cheap forever

Me too. I'm sure G will vouch for the fact that I've been a CHEEP barstid as long as we've known each other. :-)

~d~

Make sure you put the neck screws in the correct positions. There are a pair of long screws and a pair of short screws. Put a long screw in where a short screw belongs and it *will* go through the fretboard...

~d~

And all this time I thought it was "crowd." Silly me.

Say it with me Dennis

There is no good guitar but Ibanez

There is no good Ibanez that isn't made in Japan

There's no good Japanese Ibanez except the Jem

Steve Vai is God.

There is no good guitar but Ibanez

There is no good Ibanez that isn't made in Japan

There's no good Japanese Ibanez except the Jem

Steve Vai is God.

The four reasons I don't go to Jemsite anymore.

Oh well, no great loss. Now I've got PG!

~d~

I was also thinking about this......actually, i dont know how to post pictures so i'll just tell u what it is, an Ibanez RGT42FM, flame maple top, wizard II (neck-thru), edge pro II, what do u guys think? Thanks.

Aaron

Those are KILLER guitars. Through and through.

And I'd prefer almost ANY RG over any JEM, but that's me. It's just a "bang for the buck" thing...

~d~

I can get one of these with a hard case for $749 CAN (approx. $532 USD) is this a decent price?

Aaron

Yes. Yes it is. I'll take two.

~d~

I was also thinking about this......actually, i dont know how to post pictures so i'll just tell u what it is, an Ibanez RGT42FM, flame maple top, wizard II (neck-thru), edge pro II, what do u guys think? Thanks.

Aaron

Those are KILLER guitars. Through and through.

And I'd prefer almost ANY RG over any JEM, but that's me. It's just a "bang for the buck" thing...

~d~

as taken from Jemsite:

I've said this before, and I'll say it again. Avoid Jemsite like the plague. All the time you'll spend wading thru the elitism makes it easier to just figure it out yourself.

too late...

Anyway, I've found a lot less elitism on that site than many others I've joined. The 555 is about the only thing they have an issue with there.

...and anything without an Edge trem...and anything not made in Japan...and anything that doesn't say "Ibanez" on the headstock...

Did I miss anything? Jemsiters tend to be Japanese Ibanez snobs, and will attempt to tell you that all Korean Ibanezes are junk and every trem ever made is a piece of crap compared to the Edge/LoPro Edge. Has anyone ever considered that there might be reasons that so many of us have fled here from Jemsite?

As far as the dude above who said the guy'd be better off buying an RG550 and having Dimarzios put in it and having a vine done - are you insane? A pair of Evos will cost you at least $100, plus the $300+ cost of having the vine done. You still won't have the JEM "extras" like the monkey grip and lion's claw, and you can't buy a Evo single coil ANYWHERE. So, buy a used RG550 for $300-$400, then throw in another $400+, and you'd end up several hundred dollars OVER the cost of a used JEM555.

The trem is not junk people, the TRS line have been used on guitars from every major guitar manufacturer from Ibanez to Jackson to Fender to Gibson. Get over the elitism, buy the used 555 you want and get a Schaller OFR for $70 and STILL save money. Better yet, buy a used RG and avoid JEMitis altogether... ;-)

~d~

I very nearly bought that guitar a week ago. I *so* want it.

Oh well.

~d~

Could someone send me the "Relic how-to" instructions? I'd really appreciate it!

~d~

I have an original Line6 Flextone XL, and all I can say is it will not let you down. Mine's been gigged hard, has a tear in the speaker grille, a dent in the chassis, and it still works flawlessly. It does everything I want an amp to do - from a full blown Mesa when I'm playing on my RG7, a Marshall when I'm playing my LP, to a nice black face Fender when I feel like bluesing it on my '56 Strat. The amps have only gotten better with the Flextone II and III models.

You really can't go wrong when you want 32 amps for one low price!

~d~

Alex,

An important part of any relic guitar is the little dings and dents. A great way to get them is to lay your guitar body on the ground and drop a bucketful of assorted bolts onto it.

:-)

~d~

yes it is but some 24 fret necks have a deeper neck pocket which changes the relationship th the bridge.i knew someone would say that!

*Some* 24 fret necks do have the heels moved down the neck, like the AANJ Ibanez necks. Quite a few have the overhang ala earlier Ibanez necks.

I think these Charvels came with 22 fret necks, but I'm not sure.

~d~

someone correct me if i am wrong but i think 22 and 21 necks have the same dillema.you can get a 22 fret neck to fit in a 21 by buying one made for that purpose.the fingerboard hangs past the end of the neck.stock ones have a deeper neck pocket like i said.

Nope. 21 fret neck and 22 fret necks share the same scale length, unles you got some freak copy. 99% of all 21 and 22 fret necks are "Fender scale." Leo designed his first necks with 21 frets, then CBS added the 22nd fret later, by making the "overhang."

It's possible that that Johnson neck won't fit, but there's a better chance that the Charvel is made to accept a traditional Fender style neck heel.

Nearly every Charvel ever made with a bolt-on neck has a 25.5" scale, same as the Johnson neck on eBay. This is the standard "Fender" scale, most bolts-ons share it. The number of frets is irrelevant to the scale length.

Officially, you can't buy them.

Unofficially, look on eBay.

~d~

Sorry D check your e-mail

Brian,

I still didn't receive anything, but I don't think it's your fault. Ever since Hotmail went to 2Meg max, my account has been over-flooded with SPAM. I've changed my email settings, send a quote there.

Thanks!

~d~

Brian,

Did you get my request for a quote? I never received anything in my inbox from you...

I was looking for prices on a pair of zebra colored '59s...

~d~

Well, I finally got mine today. All I can really say is "wow." Best $300 I ever spent (I got a case with mine). Here's my observations after about a half an hour play time...

The centerline of the bookmatching is off by about 1/8" on mine, but it's not enough to bother me. The neck isn't off, nor is the bridge (I measured it), but the centerline of the maple misses the centerline of the pickups and tailpiece by - like I said - about 1/8". I'm still happy, especially since I know how little I paid for this thing.

The fretwork is decent, about equal to that on Epiphones. They need a good polishing, but the ends are smooth. It only feels a bit rough when I bend, which tells me that a good polish in in order.

She's got a fairly decent weight for an LP, I think mine's a bit on the light side, weighing in at 9 pounds even. The body is ONE-PIECE mahogany, with a maple cap. Later I'm going to pull the pups out to see how thick the top is.

I think the bridge pickup is pretty weak. I'm getting a great Paul tone out of the neck pickup, but the bridge is sort of letting me down. I'm going to tweak my amp settings and see if I can't squeeze a little more juice out of it.

All in all, it's definitely a good thing. I'll seriously consider another Agile guitar in the future...

~d~

Yeah, I've been looking around. I plan on purchasing both an antique white custom and a black beauty in the next year to fulfill a dream I may go the Orville route. I'm not too keen on buying from Japan though, I hate to pay that much just in shipping. (Yeah, I *am* cheep)

~d~

how strange!i can't tell if the bridge is off center or if the controls are placed wrong,but something is amiss.

The bridge is off centre, presumably to compensate for an inperfect neck joint. If you look for the bookmatch of the figured top, you can see that the stop tail bar is damn nearly half an inch of centre - not a problem for playability, but definately not ideal, and probably not within what I'd consider an acceptable margin of error. Ensuring that your body centreline and neck centreline match up and are dead straight is one of the fundamentals of guitar construction, getting it that far off shows a lack of attention to detail, and I can't help but worry what else might crop up over time.

That said, I'm sure it's like any budget guitar - you can get a total gem or a real dog. With that in mind I'd be very wary of mail ordering, unless you can exchange one you are unsatisfied with.

Rondo's exchange policy is very generous. They will allow exchanges for *any* reason up to 30 days after your purchase, and in some cases will waive the shipping charges. You'll find Kurt at Rondo is very interested in helping out his customers and making sure they're happy!

I just ordered my Agile LP2500 in amber. I cannot wait until it arrives! In fact, I emailed Kurt before ordering and asked him to ship the guitar in the case I bought to save on shipping costs. He said "no problem" and is going to send them both for one shipping fee. What a guy.

~d~

Is this a three-pickup model? Please send me some pictures.

Thanks

~d~

dcord777@hotmail.com