MzI

I've got two more bodies sitting on the shelf already glued up. Just need necks made.

And the irony of this picture is that this is the chair my first one fell off of and broke

Finally finished my 59 Korina V. Only took 9 years. It has been refinished 3 times over that course and the neck was broken once and repaired. Better pictures will be up next week as I will have the guitar on display this weekend at a local woodworking show.

Top looks great, how long did it take to carve on the CNC?

Biggest problem with the end grain tearout is one piece you'll get tear out and another piece you won't. When I was using CNC in college, we always did test runs in Foam and the program we used, MasterCam, had a preview mode so we could see the tool path as it progressed and could spot and bad lines in the G Code.

The epoxy is as smooth as the fretboard. No issues with durability. I sand my fretboards up to 12k micro mesh and then oil them with Teak oil. They play very well.

Inlay is black epoxy. Not sure why I did it that way other than I had the dremel in my hand. I'll use a bit next time.

Seems like a good number of my splated and crotch tops have those wonderful demonic faces in them, I think it makes them better for playing metal.

The neck blank is just about set. Still have to glue the face plate on the headstock and then route for the truss rod. Also did some photoshoping to see how the top will look once book matched.

VIP meet and greet tickets and I got to go to sound check as well. Incredible show. Michael actually asked if the guitar was for him. I was second row for the show and ended up catching the last pick he used that night so that will stay with the guitar as well.

Finally finished the Ninja V. Now it gets to hang on the wall and never get played again.

I'm back onto the Ash and walnut super strat. The neck blank is just about done at this point. Need to glue the headstock on tomorrow night. I am going to try and bend the drop top over the arm contour on the front of the the guitar.

That makes sense. The studs sit in inserts and they have paint on them as well, where as the other guitar has a gold plated bridge. Thanks, I'll give it a try.

I went through it again, checked everything, rewired it based on one of my other guitars with the same setup which works fine. Same thing buzzes like crazy, If I touch the input jack the buzzing goes away though

Thanks I will check all of those tonight after work.

Yes the bridge is grounded. I double checked with a jumper wire from the pot case to the bridge and no difference.

Not the easiest to see but might help some.

I am having a bit of trouble wiring my guitars with 2 wire and 4 wire pickups. My arrangement is 2 hum, 1 vol, 1 tone, 3 way, 500k cts pots and .047 cap. I have 2 wire duncan pickups in the neck and 4 wire BL 500 XL in the bridge. Of the two I have wired, I can get sound out of them when plugged in and playing open but as soon as I rest my hand on the bridge or fret a note I get tons of buzz. Any ideas, help, input, etc would be appreciated.

Just because a neck is made of maple doesn't mean it is going to be neck heavy. I have solid maple guitars that are lighter than Mahogany guitars. Just depends on the piece of wood.

Was at the Northeast Woodworking show today and picked up two new pieces of wood. Bocote fretboard blank and a niece piece of Crotch walnut for one of my strat bodies. The walnut is only 1/2" thick or so but for $19 it will make a nice book matched drop top.

Back to the Ninja V. All fretted, neck roughed in, and glued in place. Some epoxy filler for the headstock too. I will say, Bloodwood is an extremely hard wood to shape. Even my razor sharp Framing chisel is having a tough time with it.

Doesnt necessarily need to be, some symbol/logo etc to associate with you, missing piece of the puzzle for your work.

Where's the headstock logo?

Im all for that SS, strings thru instead of a tail piece though. The black stain in the recess for the knobs is a nice touch as well.

Finally finished one. Took a lot longer than I planned on. On to the next one.

1/8" air gap isn't much. Normal air gap is around 1". Best bet would be to leave an access panel somewhere in the wall so you can check on it every once in a while to make sure nothing is rotting or getting moldy. Regardless of if you have a wet basement or not, I like to use Mold resistant drywall in all the basements I renovate/finish.

Use Tyvek tape to seal up any cuts in the plastic. Also did you leave an air gap in between your foundation walls and framing? Moisture builds on the inside of the concrete and will rot away any dry wood that is touching the concrete in no time.

Are you going to hang drywall in there? Exposed fiberglass insulation is not good to breath in. Plus not having a proper vapor barrier allows an excessive amount of moisture into the shop rusting tools and changing moisture content of wood.

Haven't really touched the Ninja V. More focused on work and getting the fire burst strat done.

Strat is mostly buffed out missed one spot on the front that I have to go back and hit again. Started applying oill to the neck as well. Going to start pre assembly this weekend once I get the spot buffed out. I used EM6000 for this one. First time using the product, overall it came out decent considering not one coat of finished laid down flat from the gun. Wet sanding was very easy as was buffing. I did not get any blueing as I only sprayed two coats a day as per recommendations. This one did sit for 9 months + and was good and hard when I started sanding. I will be using this finish on another guitar in the future, just need to get my spray set up straightened out.