MzI

thanx,

i dont have pics of the neck right this second but i will in bout half an hour or so and ill post em on that site, its currently dryin cuz i changed the top a lil so its more of a burst finish and dont look so spotty, the only other thing i gotta do is run the top with a 1/4 roundover and itll b ready to get clear tomarrow night

o btw its my first guitar

MzI

that would b from my lack of experience using wood dye i think i put too much on that part the top is supposed to be a honey amber color but it came out a lil dark im gonna try and play around with takin alil of the finish off and see what happens theres a couple spots im not happy with so well see what happens but its not toally done yet ne ways

MzI

yea that link didnt work but heres the right link:

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/mziguitars

MzI

Been workin on this one for the last week and a half or so its almost done lemme kno if the link dont work

[url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mziguitars/pictures here

MzI

make sure that the old finish is completely off of the wood and all u can see is wood so that the old paint does not show up when u refinish, when i refinished mine i didnt take all of the old paint off and it showed up in the new finish and it dont look too good, i had mine repainted by a friend of mine who paints cars and he used nitro laquer for clear but im pretty sure you can use poly too

MzI

another idea for those moveable benches is to put an outlet in them and then run a 12 gauge lead chord to plug into the wall wherever so u dont hafta run lead chords all over the place

MzI

im makin mine like 1 3/8 roughly inch of mahogany and 3/8 of maple top i dont see why it has to be so thick sg's are pretty thin i would think it would be thicker then the neck and joint but other then that the thickness shouldnt really matter if ur using a t.o.m.

just my thoughts

MzI

Tape off the sides of ur stripes leavin the part u want to paint uncovered make sure u cover the rest of the body you dont want painted with paper or sumthing, im not totally sure but i think you put once coat of clear down first then do the stripes then more clear im not totally sure tho, best place to check is with a car painter theyll b able to help you out alot

MzI

a good material to make the top out of is old kitchen tables that have the laminate stuff on top of particle board usually there is a bunch of em layin around in the dump if ya go a dump near ya

MzI

usually the pine strips I glue on the side are higher then the wood itself and then i run the whole thing thru the planner, you just hafta run the whole thing thru a couple times to get the pine strips down to the same thickness as your blank your runnin thru

MzI

i can get dimensions and such if ya want em just let me kno

MzI

just an idea but put lockin wheels on it if its not too big, currently in my workshop we got like 4 moveable benches bout 2 1/2 to 3 feet wide by like 4 feet long mayb a lil bigger im not totally sure and then one huge long bench agaisnt the wall that way if ur workin on different projects u just skip to different tables that way you dont hafta keep moving stuff around

just a thought

MzI

a trick i do when i run my wood thru the planner at my house is i glue pine strips on the sides of the blank that helps a little bit and i rarely get any marks but then again i also have a thickness sander which is like a million times better then a planner when taking off small amounts

MzI

I have EMGs in my other 2 guitars and i kno you dont hafta ground them they are internally done already which is great, this guitar im goin with duncans to mix it up a lil a jb zebra in the bridge and a duncan designed in the neck from my old exp til i can get a jazz zebra

MzI

there is no pickguard, no trem, its a dual humbucker set up with a abr bridge and strings thru the body if that helps

MzI

in the next week or so i hope to be wiring my pickups i kno all the basics and have the schematics but wen it comes to the groundin im a lil confused. supposedly you hafta connect the ground wire to the bridge or bridge studs how the hell do u do that once i get that i think i should be all set

thanx in advance

MzI

i got the neck from a friend of my dads who is a luthier i didnt talk to him he just gave it to my dad so i dont know anything about it, the part i was measuring was the front of the heel and the back of the heel the front of the heel was just under 1 inch and the back was a shade over 1 inch. i plan on calling the guy i got it from tomarrow to check with him, also i have yet to cut the neck pocket seeing as i just rough shaped my body with the bandsaw a lil while ago

MzI

thanx for all the info, i still got some of the board left to do another guitar. the next one is gonna b a 59 v style but its not gonna get started til summer probly cuz i go away to school so well see what happens when i resaw the rest of the board

MzI

mayb im not totally sure i usually keep my wood in the second floor where its not quite as humid as down in the cellar

I got a premade bolt-on neck. it looks like it has the 2 degree angle already factored in because i measured it at the front of the neck pocket part and the very end of the neck and it seems to be slightly larger in the end part would this be the neck angle factored in or do i need to still rout my neck pocket and place a shim for the neck angle btw im using a tom no trems for me

MzI

the place i get my lumber is pretty good tho i dont see why it wouldnt be dry now because i have had the piece for a good 10 to 11 months or so and it has been just sittin here on my floor drying

MzI

so basically it piece to piece as to whether or not the board will warp after resawing

I bought the board from my local lumber yard here in NY way back almost a year ago and it has been sitin on my floor in my backcloset in my bedroom

MzI

Im new here but ive been surfin the forums and guitarbuild forums for a while and I cant seem to find an answer to this one. I resawed a piece of 4/4 flamed maple this mornin, ran it through the thickness sander, and then by the time i was ready to glue it on my mahogany blank, one piece was already slightly warped. ellaposed time between resawing it and getting ready to glue was probly 15-20 mins at the most. I put quite a few clamps and weights on the blank to get rid of the slight warp and its pretty much gone but is there a way to not get that warp from the begining or is it pretty much useless and im gonna get a slight warp no matter what??

MzI