Masina

fair enough, looks like I'll forego the fibreglass then.

it's an neck I've made myself, so added thickness would be taken into acount, plus I'd only give it an undercoat of colour, then apply the fibreglass on top in place of lacquer. another reason for this is it would make the neck virtually impervious to dents and scratches, however if you think it isn't worth it, maybe I'll go with a normal finish...

OK, I'll bite: why would you want to do this?

just as a way of finishing the neck, which would add a bit of stiffness to it too. the fibreglass'll be pretty transparent, to the colour of the paint will show up. You think it is a bad idea?

I was thinking of applying a thin layer of fibre glass on to the back of my bass guitar neck, with an undercoat on the wood, so the colour would be seen through the fibre glass. My question is will fibre glass stick properly to a painted surface? I've glassed a neck before, but previously onto bare wood.

thanks.

I see, yes I realized that there was some other differences (like the 'comb' structure) but thought the tele pickups seemed to be similar. didn't realize the aren't magnetic though

I was reading this article about lace sensors:

http://www.agi-lace.com/electric_pickups/l...ensor_specs.php

and realised the only thing about them is the metal parts reducing hum and reduces the field size. Well surely a tele lipstick tube pickup would do the same thing, as the cover is made of metal?

or am I missing something?

I once made a wah and made the casing out of scrap mahogany, with cavities foe electronics and such. the rocker peddle was made out of sheet steel.

worked a treat

Lots of people do. But that's not what the OP had in mind. I DO think it's the best option, though.

Oh yeah, push pull pot type thing, never heard of that.

warmoth sell stacked pots

I've got it sorted now anyway. I simply glued a thin plastic tube (which I made out of heatshrink) into the inside.

i dont think there is anything of the type. if you try to explain it we could maybe help.

what about using a plastic tube instead of metal? might be able to find a pvc/other insulator tube thats aproximately the size of the inner diameter of the metal tube and hammer it in/glue it in/put tape around it until its a tight fit then put it in.

edit: you could also try to melt wax into it, but i dont know if that would be very reliable.

Yes, I think I'll have to do that then. Thanks for the input.

...insulate against what? If it's for a wire, just stick a wire (already coated with, y'know, insulation) in it.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. The inside of the actual tube has to be insulated. Like I said it is difficult to explain.

It's difficult to explain, but basically I need to insulate the inside of a 1/4" tube.

I'm looking for some kind of plastic which is like heat-shrink tubing, except it expands when it is heated.

Does anyone know of anything like this, and if so where I an get it from?

Thanks.

I think you guys missed the question...

He wants to buy WIRE, and ADD a ball end. Im assuming he has a machine to add the wraps, which go on AFTER the ball end it twisted on.

It amazes me how much effort someone will go to, to save less than $2. Maybe his sign on date is an indicator.

No need for that, I don't particularly want to do it or anything, I was just interested that's all. Is that such a bad thing?

Does anyone know if you can get reels of different gauge strings, from which you cut off a length and tie on a ball end? coz that would be a lot cheaper.

Ever heard of anything like it?

Ah, fair enough. The wood in question was holly, so I doubt that I'd be ably to get anything 12" diameter or more.

I was simply intrigued by what holly would be like as a fingerboard. I figured it would feel a bit like ebony, as it is so hard.

Thanks for the input guys!

I'm interested in the idea because I do have some small logs lying around, and thought it would be nice to make something right from the start. I've sourced a sawmill near to me that could do the work, so if the wood is suitable, I'll do this.

The logs are roughly 6" diameter - is that too small for fingerboards, for example?

Has anyone had experience making their own lumber (out of logs) for tonewood. I just thought that for guitar building, only relatively small pieces are needed, therefore the size of the logs might be managable.

I've heard about making a jig for a chainsaw. Has anyone done anything like this?

Nice.

I'm might build something similar in the future actually.

why don't you glue on some scraps of wood to the sides, so that the entire headstock is the same width, and then you'll have a flat surface to work from. You'll be cutting if off when you shape it anyway, so you could use anything.

You could strip the paint off your self, and then is if an auto body shop would re-spray it for you.

If you're going to do it, make sure nothing reacts first, so test out all the finishes you would use, and finish at as normal, but with the hand painting in between stages. I've done some stenciling before and it has worked fine, so I don't see why this shouldn't.

You could always use a hand held power planer, that'd get the job done in no time.

I'm thinking of buying a 6mm figured maple top for a project from www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk. The only information they have is 'medium fig' and 'good fig'. Can anyone give me examples of what each one looks like, as I find it hard to determine just how good medium is etc. Thanks