rdiquattro

Hi thanks for the real nice comments .This guitar will be no 10 . I started building guitars back in 1997 .

I was influenced by Brian May who built his own so from that first guitar built for my self it became an addiction of some sort .

Most guitar builders would of built close to 100 guitars in that time . Hopefully i will get some sort of interest in this style of guitar , its the first of my own design.

Thankyou for your kind comments the finish i am using is a nitro type laquer that dosent crack or craze after a few years.

Its called excellac 100 made buy a company called sherwoods paints. All i did was wipe the neck down with prepsol which a grease and wax remover.

Ps you allso have made some great looking guitars as well keep up the excellent work .

Hi the neck has Had about 8 coats of clear on it . The cocobolo is such a hard timber that it dosent soak that much laquer up at all .

The round holes you see are magnets to hold in the back control cover that is also made of a matching peice of maple.

This is a guitar that is almost finished .

Cocobolo neck 220 mm neck tennon

curly maple front and back

American walnut centre chambered

pigtail wraparound bridge sperzel tuners

adesons lucifer pickups.

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This is a guitar i made for my son it was finished in march 2007 .

name of guitar AB1

Brazilian mahogany neck and body

Flame queensland maple top and back

Grover machine heads

tonepros wraparound bridge with tp locking studs.

tv jones filtertron pickups classic plus in bridge standard in neck

push pull tone for out of phase sound

dimazio three way toggle switch

nitro paint

extra long neck tennon that extends all the way to the bridge pickup .

Queenland maple headstock veneer and trussrod cover.

I wish there was something like that in Melbourne there was a show on once a year called the Frankston guitar festival but it longer happens.www.diquattroguitars.com

Hi everyone this may sound like a stupid question but how do i go about entering my guitar in gotm comptetion. thanks

www.diquattroguitars.com

Hi i love this guitar your building i was wondering how did you manage to rout out the recurve on the body with out loosing control or keeping it so nice and consistant . I would like to try the methode my self . Any advice would be a great help. thankyou.

HI Dave

Check out my website www.diquattroguitars.com and have a look at the hollow body i finished in March . If you have any Questions i will be happy to help you out.

Do you have any inside shots of the PRS-style hollowbody? That one is really nice looking. Just curious how the body is designed and what you hollowed out on it. Is it a semi-hollow or fully-hollow design? Nice job on it either way.

-Cheers

Hi Dave have a look at my site under currant projects and you will see pics of the inside of the guitar.

Also have a look at Edromanguitars.com and look at the section were they cut the top off a hollow body prs .You will see good photos there.

When i built my Hollow body guitar i carved the top and back inside and out and i was a little worried about feed back at high volumes .

So what i did was i made the neck with a extra long deep set tennon that goes all the way underneath the bridge pickup .

I also put a solid sound post in that links the top plate to the bottom plate the core of the body is made of a two peices of brazillian mahogany .

www.diquattroguitars.com Instead of routing out the body to make it hollow i cut each half with the bandsaw before glueing the two together .

That saved me a lot of dirty work with router, now the only feedback i get at high volume is form the strings it is fantastic.

When i built my Hollow body guitar i carved the top and back inside and out and i was a little worried about feed back at high volumes .

So what i did was i made the neck with a extra long deep set tennon that goes all the way underneath the bridge pickup .

I also put a solid sound post in that links the top plate to the bottom plate the core of the body is made of a two peices of brazillian mahogany .

www.diquattroguitar.com Instead of routing out the body to make it hollow i cut each half with the bandsaw before glueing the two together .

That saved me a lot of dirty work with router, now the only feedback i get at high volume is form the strings it is fantastic.

HI Dave

Check out my website www.diquattroguitars.com and have a look at the hollow body i finished in March . If you have any Questions i will be happy to help you out.

My vote goes to hoogle bug i have never seen such a carve like that brilliant peice of work .

I’ve dealt with this problem several times. When a board is resawn to make a book-match and it is not completely dry, it often will warp or cup. It caused by releasing stress on one side of the wood and not on the other. Boards should be book matched when completely dry (about 6%) or when green. When thinning a board it should be done by removing wood from each side of the wood at an even rate. Unfortunately if you have a 1”+ thick boards, as you plane down each side you will loose your book-match. So to retain the book-match I thin the wood on one side only (the B side) but this can cause the wood to cup or warp. To get a flat top to bond to the back I use plywood that is flat and a little larger than the maple. Then in each of the corners of the (B side) maple I put a dab of bondo. Then set the maple (b side) down on the plywood and while the bondo is soft adjust the height of each corner so it is the same. Then after a few minutes I run it through my drum sander or planner. Now my wood is flat on the money side and i can plane down the other side to my final thickness. If the wood is not dry it will start to cup and warp again.

Hope this helps.

Thankyou for your help everyone it is much appreciated , Only one question snowgtr what type of glue is bondo , i have never heard of it before what is it close to. The timber im talking about i bought from ebay ,the seller said that it is for guitar building ,and we did have a very hot summer this year . When i bought the maple i had it stored in the house and now its in the work shop . So that i think has had alot to do with it .

Bondo is auto body filler.

How severly cupped is the wood? (say you put a straight edge across it, how far off would it be in inches or millimeters?)

Across each peice it has a cup of about 3mm aprox.

I’ve dealt with this problem several times. When a board is resawn to make a book-match and it is not completely dry, it often will warp or cup. It caused by releasing stress on one side of the wood and not on the other. Boards should be book matched when completely dry (about 6%) or when green. When thinning a board it should be done by removing wood from each side of the wood at an even rate. Unfortunately if you have a 1”+ thick boards, as you plane down each side you will loose your book-match. So to retain the book-match I thin the wood on one side only (the B side) but this can cause the wood to cup or warp. To get a flat top to bond to the back I use plywood that is flat and a little larger than the maple. Then in each of the corners of the (B side) maple I put a dab of bondo. Then set the maple (b side) down on the plywood and while the bondo is soft adjust the height of each corner so it is the same. Then after a few minutes I run it through my drum sander or planner. Now my wood is flat on the money side and i can plane down the other side to my final thickness. If the wood is not dry it will start to cup and warp again.

Hope this helps.

Thankyou for your help everyone it is much appreciated , Only one question snowgtr what type of glue is bondo , i have never heard of it before what is it close to. The timber im talking about i bought from ebay ,the seller said that it is for guitar building ,and we did have a very hot summer this year . When i bought the maple i had it stored in the house and now its in the work shop . So that i think has had alot to do with it .

About two years ago i bought two flame maple bookmatched tops at 28mm thick .

Just the other day a had a close look at them and they have become severly cupt like this ( across the width of the board .

Both sets of maple are perfectly quatersawn , does anyone have any sugestions on what i should do with this maple they both cost me alot of money. Any help would be greatfull :D

Ok the Charvel has sold Ibanez ts9 still up for grabs can go $60 shipped in the US

Hi i will take it,how much to send it to Melbourne Australia pc 3020 i can pay you through paypal . my email is diquattroguitars@hotmail.com

Its great timber ,the stuff i use is very light in weight and easy to work with .

I have built two other guitars with it and its really nice stuff . I have been able to keep the weight down on these guitars as well .

Thats a good thing i think , what suburb do you live in i live in Sunshine and im a Carpenter as well. :D

It took me about 2 years on and off because i had other guitars to build and repair.

I will tell you something i felt like throwing a party when i finally finished it because it took me so long to build.

It shaw isnt easy building a guitar like that , its a lot of painstaking work but all worth it in the end.

The pickups are fantastic if you like the Gretsch sound they are worth every cent . I used the classic plus for the bridge and standard for the neck.

Hi its flame queensland maple top and back and brazilian mahogony neck and body with a gomberia fingerboard.

Thankyou for putting up the gallery i must be doing something wrong it wont work when i try , but yet again im am pretty useless when it come to computers . :D

I cant seem to get the link to work if you look at www.diquattroguitars.com and look under completed projects hollowbody image gallery then you can see some pics there . Once i find out how to post pictures properly i will put some on the forum . :D

Hi everyone i have been have been hovering around this forum and have just joined up as member.

I think its a fantasic place to be and would like to show my latest creation .

www.diquattroguitars.comA copy of a prs holllowbody that i hope one day my little son will play.