Dylanwad

before. very bland

after. very sexy, just got the binding to do and final laquer coat. oh and im having a jewler mate of mine to make a solid silver truss rod cover with a custom logo engraved on it.

That looks wild! Can't wait to see the whole guitar finished.

I had a chance to get rid of the extra wood in the neck pocket yesterday. It was only about 1 1/2 mm from the top side of the pocket and I had to do it with stanley knife (it was that or sandpaper, all I had), it worked fine. I need to work on cutting in a straight line! I used a metal ruler but somehow still managed to be a bit off! O well.

The neck now fits in the socket and I've drawn where I need to drill the screw holes to screw them together.

I have three questions:

1) The licensed Floyd on my Squire Showcaster (bought so I don't have to worry too much about someone stealing / breaking it at a gig) has a screw in arm which screws into another bit which then screws into the trem. Can I change it to be the type that you can adjust to stay where you want it and not just lock in place or hang loose (I'm not explaining this very well!). What are the parts I need called?

2) Anyone know what these guitars are made of?

3) I cleaned the fretbord with lemon oil for the first time last week. I like the look of it when it's wet, would Tru Oil give me that look permanently if I applied a fair few coats to the fretboard?

Thanks.

Cool, thanks Rick.

I've just come inside after being sanding again for 5 hours, the neighbours must hate me by now! I'm almost done, there's a little bit of sealer left on the horn to get rid of and I need to sand out the newspaper print that seeped into the wood when I was using the stripper. I tried using my dremmel to do the horns but the sanding drums I had for it was brutal, gouged the wood a bit, so I resortred to sandpaper around a pencil. Hopefully over the next week I can sort out the neck pocket to fit the neck and work out where exactly to put the bridge. Fun and games!

I'm sorry to ask such a basic question but what is the difference between a rasp and a file?

Where did you get the neck and body from? I got one off ebay for £28 including postage (admittedly it isnt amazingly good). £48 sounds like quite a lot to be paying for second hand strat style neck. Mind you I am a bit of a cheapskate when it comes to guitar guitar parts, I bought the wood for the body and neck on my current (telecaster shaped) build for £6 (thats not including the fingerboard which cost me £12 from stewmac.com).

Anyway, good luck with the build.

I got them from Axesrus, they're new not second hand. I considered ebay but I've bought a couple of neck off it in the past and been a bit unluky!

£6!!!! That's amazing, I really want to get into building from scratch when I sort my money/space issues out. I just bought Melvyn Hiscox book, seriously good stuff, it's going to be a very usefull tool. Where do you buy your wood then? I'm looking into suppliers for the future.

Good luck to you too! Are you documenting your build here?

I think I'll give it a go, you've inspired me guys. Thank you.

I've heard of people filling in old screw holes in necks with dowels before, it should work. Dunno about the epoxy. There will be far more experienced posters along in a while, they'll let you know for sure.

Slotting the fragment was an inspired move! I'll have to remember that one.

Would a les paul type switch fit in the tone control hole of a telecaster control plate? If not, are the plates easy to drill?

It looks like both Al. I'm just glad there's not more of them!

Well I've given the body 4 coats of stripper, one of them left over night. This Home Strip stuff does work but it's painfully slow, although it doesn't seem to work on the sanding sealer. I dug out a sander I got as part of a set of tools I bought years ago after hand sanding for a while before coming to the conclusion that I'd be there forever! After about 5 hours of sanding I'm getting there but the sanding sealer seems to be made of the hardest material known to man! Any tips?

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w223/Dy.../No-paint-1.jpg

I was a bit worried about what I'd find under the paint but it's not bad. I did find this though.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w223/Dy.../No-paint-2.jpg

How do you stop your glasses / safety goggles steamng up when working with a dust mask? It's doing my head in, it's like sanding in a thick fog!

I'm FINALLY getting the chance to strip the body today. I'm using something called Home Strip which is an eco friendly stripper, no nasty fumes. The first application left for 30 mins did next to nothing . I'm also using plastic scrapers (I'm sure I read somewhere I should use plastic ones). I'm off to B&Q to buy some sandpaper for later on (or maybe sooner if this stuff won't work!), I'll post some pics later.

Recessed tunomatic! This is is getting even better. How deep is the route?

I'm a bit worried about the combustability of Tru Oil. I have a few questions.

1) What exactly sets it off?

2) How should I store it?

3) How do I dispose of the rags?

4) Doesn't sanding heat it up and make it likely to ignite?

5) Anything else I should take into consideration?

I may be bit paranoid but I'd rather that than die in a fire!

Sweet job dude!

Is there a website showing pictures of what passes for grade a, grade aa etc? Is it a look thing or is there more too it?

Thanks CainMD. Which RG have you got? I have a 1990 desert yellow with matching headstock I bought in '91. I'll never sell it, it's been battered by too many gigs but I still love it.

Can any one help with the tru oil part of the question. If I re finish the scallopes with tru oil can I match it to the sprayed satin effect of the rest of the neck?

It has to be 4 characters min...

-John

That explains why koa and led didn't work then! I must have mis typed poplar as I have no problems today. My bad!

Thanks John.

Most thngs I've put into search on the site today yield no results, poplar and led for instance.

Is it working for you guys?

That's shaping up nicely mate. The carving is cool!

That looks great! I love that you matched the headstock to the fretboard. I'm looking forward to seeing this finished.

Inetersting, a partial scallop. Didn't Billy Sheehan have something like that on his sig bass? Cool idea, I'll keep that in mind.

Generally speaking, how deep are bog standard black dot inlays? I was playing with the idea of scalloping the last four frets on my project but I'm afraid to go too deep.

The neck is maple with a maple fretboard finished in some sort of satin finish. I am finishing the body with tru oil, would I be able to re finish just the four frets with tru oil and get a similar finish to the satin spary job or is it a case of re finishing the whole neck?