gedlee

Thank you for the help. Does it matter if it's oil-less or not? Meaning, is oil-less "better" as opposed to an oil compressor for painting?

Just bought a compressor and a gun and I'm looking for some opinions on setting up my line. I will probably be painting no more than 3-5 guitars or so a year. With that said, to keep moisture and dirt ect..out of my finish, do I have to have an elaborate set up in my line with piping, drains, filter ect.. between my compressor and my gun? Or would I be OK with just a filter/regulator in the line and a filter at the gun? Thanks for any and all help!

Just a couple of quick questions. Will i need a black base coat before spraying on the chrome? also, should i sand the chrome smooth, appply 1 last layer and then clear coat? or should i not sand the chrome layer at all?

Pls reply me asap.. i really need the answers to these questions.

thanks in advanced.

Yes you do need to apply a black base coat first and then apply the chrome. Do not sand the chrome. See ALSA's web site for directions on how to apply. They have a video demo of how to apply it.

I would just use thier primer. That is what HOK's tech rep showed me to do.

I'm going to be using their "killer Cans" and that's another problem i'm having, they don't make a primer to go with that line of paint. But what i'm looking for at the moment is a recommendationon on SEALER that would be compatible with urethane paints.

It's probably not the answer you want to hear, but follow the manufaturers instructions. The tech sheets usually tell you want primer and sealer to use. They have spent a lot of money developing their products for the optimum results. Even though, yes they want to sell more of their products, they are also designed to work together. Also with automotive urethanes, you get a quick and thick enough build that I would worry about sanding sealer.

Sanding sealer is a higher solids clear coat with a softening agent added (along the lines of soap). It is used to achieve a quick build and the softening agents make it easy to sand to level out.

You would think reading the manufaturers instructions would help, but no where do they give you guidance on/or mention sanding sealers.

I'm going to be painting a guitar with a urethane type paint and of course need to seal the body. Can anyone recommend a sanding sealer that is compatible with urethane paints? Thanks

Has anyone ever used the 2 part aerosol clear urethanes such as spraymax or areomax? What did you think of them? What type of paint do they work well with? I hear they provide an untra hard surface.

I have 3 guns 2 are devilbiss. one pint gun [ I would call it a touch up gun] it works great for spraying color. the second gun is bigger I use it for clear.I only use the big gun for spraying clear lacquer.

I just bought a top feed gun from harbor freight and it works great 39.00 sale price 16.00

the compressor is a emglo model Emglo AM99-HC4V 2 Horsepower 5.6 CFM Compressor

Yield 125 PSI with air line regulator with twin tanks

small but enough to spray finish all day long and use a nail gun when I need it put new shingle on my house.

looking on Amazon dewalt has the same kind for 250.00 with free shipping.

I spray using 35 psi. make sure your gun is clean and free from dirt and old finish.

thanks! I will check those out.

can anyone recommend a good spray gun and compressor combination? Thanks

Has anyone ever heard of these "paint Your Own Guitar" books? Thay have an ad in Guitar World, i'v seen them on the internet. Has anyone ever used them? Is there anything useful in em?

What type of paint are you using? Is it a basecoat/clearcoat system? If it is there should be no sanding in between them.

Just a krylon white basecoat.

I'm refinishing a bass guitar. I have the color coat wet sanded down with 2000 grit paper. Being new to this, I thought it would looked alot more shined up by now and with less scraches so I could go ahead with the clear coat, it's not. Whats my next step or do I have to get rid of all of those thousands of tiny little scraches before the clear coat? Thanks,any help would be great.

You're shooting lacquer. Its not really necessary to do any wetsanding between color coat and clearcoat, unless you've really got some nasty runs everywhere, and even after that more color should be laid down. No mechanical bond is required between coats of lacquer. The solvent (acetone) in the new lacquer coat will fuse with previously laid coats. So shoot your white as best you can with rattlecans, cut away drips, runs etc. with a razor when dry then shoot the clearcoat. Wetsand the clearcoat.

Yeah,I didn't really plan on sanding it(The base coat) but I got some lint or something on there and tryed to sand it out. Any ideas for that situation? Thank you

The same thing happend to me. I was using dupli-color for my base coat, started to sand with 600 wet and there was the same yellow stuff. I may have stayed in 1 spot to long, I don't know?

I'm trying to repaint a bass using plain white dupli-color paint,sanded,primed ect.. painted the base coat and tryed to sand it with 600 wet before the clear coat and the paint started to turn a yellow color? Has this happend to anyone else with white or any other color? Am I doing something wrong? Its been a real pain in the a.. Thanks

Hi any help would be great. I'm refinishing a guitar and i'm going to paint it a solid color,no stain. Do i need to sand the body all the way down to the wood before I prime? Getting this finish off is much harder than I thought it would be. Thanks!