JOAMdude

Does anyone know how to measure things accurately?

I know that on rulers and tape measurers the marking line is like one centimeter.

do i measure at the end of the line or the middle or the end?

does anyone know what im talking about and can help me?

so for the routing i understand that you just put the nut where the line has already been made for the nut that was there (or on a preslotted fret-board, where the slot already is).

but on my floyd nut, it slants a tiny bit back like this:

\

\

\

\

l

l

l

l

l

l

are all floyd nuts like this?

so , should the vertical part be flush with where it is already marked or, (which makes more sense) should the point of contact with the locking nut be exactly above the line that is drawn out?

thanks for the help!

hrmm, if you don't want a metal guitar, you should open your search to things not like well that guitar.

it is made for metal. and if you play stuff like CC, gorguts, MA, or death, it would probably be perfect.

but since you already have 2 like that, save up for something LIKE the LP, also you could always contour

the heel once you (if you) buy the LP,

the weight goes hand in hand with the tone, and well i've got nothing to say about the inlays

hahaha

you guys pretyt much answered it for me.

i just wanted to know (theoretically), because i'm designing one, and didn't wan't the bridge too far up,

i'll just carve out some more from the cutaway

so if i did want to increase fret access I would slide up the nut/fretboard the same distance as the bridge?

some gutiars have better fret access then others.

this is becuase sometimes they have different cut aways but also,

isn't cause of fretboard placement? if i slid the fretboard towards the headstock, i'd have better fret access

so the question is, if I move up the fretboard, must i also move the bridge?

how did you buy your wood so cheap

awesome, now i need a jointer

these are all awesome!!!

love both the (super)strats

gah! what about dunlop jazz II's?!

+1

+1

waht happened here?

i haave also heard this

PM brian or perry about it maybe?

the music honestly isn't my thing so i can't comment on the video

congrats on your beautiful axe!

i love mahogany too!

light stuff doesn't cut it

^ honestly, cut some o that out for your own mental sanity

holy crap that is very heavy.

must be a tone monster though!

how does she play?

100 watt engl powerball through a 15 band eq,a sonic maximizer,and a full stack of marshall 1960 vintage cabs.

engl.... i'd sell my soul for an engl.

currently i have an SS-140C and a MGDFX-30

the SS needs a LOT of fixing

i wonder if any of you guys could tell me what's wrong with it

do any of you build amps?

right, good question that.

wonder if a mod could move it

hi will

how much would a maple-walnut-maple cost for 40" in length.

riftsawn is good.

quartersawn is probably too much to ask for though.

RI, Eastern Massachussets

^ that's good

yesterday i ordered

OFR

Fingerboard (ebony)

Saddle shims

Routing Templates

Dragon Rasp

Fingerboard Dye.

how on earth could one obtain this gorgeous finish?

http://www.poweralley.com/Jackson/KE3_Kelly_md.jpg

does anyone know where to find a piec of maple that is 40" long? the longest i can find is for 36",

i guess mockingbird's have unusally long body shapes

pure concentrated aweesomeness

can't wait to see how it turns out

i can't tell you how much this helps

thank you very much for your generous post