Azrael

You think so? I was wondering about that myself, but what makes it all that different from a Strat's saddles?

Here we go!

Allparts had one I'm looking for.

http://www.allparts.com/store/guitar-bridg...010,Product.asp

Well, I wanted saddle slot filing to be a last measure, since it's a bit more permanent, unless I get a TOM that has replacement saddles readily available.

Looks like stewmac.com doesn't have any with adjustable saddles. I emailed allparts last night, we'll see what they say.

no thats not one.

I thought they had one but i cant find it now, maybe i got mixed up with my local store www.guitarparts.co.nz which has them, theres bound to be other suppliers, I think guitarparts.co.nz source a lot from allparts.

I emailed them yesterday, no response yet. Hoping it happens before tomorrow,

^This one?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...es.html#details

It's hard to tell..

^Yeah, I've filed the saddle's slot before, but was just hoping someone out there had made one with adjust saddle heights.

well first off, im pretty sure gibsons radii are 12"

but about the compound radius. i dont think it matters as much as people think it does. but if you want to get it closer, the best thing i could think of would have the nut slotted to match the 10" radius, that way the strings are better suited to 10" there.

and the end, i dont think there would be a problem.

Gibsons are known to have both 10" and 12" freboard radii. Just depends.

The idea of slotting nut for the top of the fretboard sounds good. Makes sense.

I've been looking at different style bridges, mostly interested in a Leo Quan Bad Ass wraparound bridge, or in some sort of Tune-O-Matic bridge.

A couple of questions:

1 - It would be optimal to have a bridge that matched the fretboard radius as much as possible, right? Interestingly enough, Gibsons usually have a fretboard radius of around 10", but have a TOM with a 12" radius.

2 - If I did want to match the bridge radius to the fretboard radius, how would I do it for a fretboard with a compound radius, like on Warmoth's guitars? Say it was a 10" to 16" radius. How would that work?

3 - Are there any Bad Ass or TOM style bridges that have an adjustable radius, like on Strat bridges?

thanks!

whoa man, that looks great!

i'm slowly leaning towards just using a tru-oil finish, no stain at all. a lot of the finishes I've seen look incredible.

Looking good so far..

Oh, okay. I had no idea that tru-oil was like that. It was recommended to me, when i was discussing oiled finishes.

As far as cherry stain, I dunno, just think a red guitar looks awesome.

But that makes sense, I haven't seen a lot of oil-finished guitars with stains...

And the additives would be more directed to the tru-oil portion of the question, anyway. I have a can of tung oil, but found out there's varnishes and stuff mixed in. I'd like to try the real thing.

Hey, I've been meticulously planning a neck through build with Walnut and Mahogany. The neck would be a 5-piece, using Mahogany-Maple-Walnut-Maple-Mahogany. The wings would would either be mahogany, or be walnut. I say this because I'm trying to decide if I should use a book matched claro walnut top or let that bad ass 5-piece show through. If I had the Walnut top, the wings would be mahogany. No top, the wings would be walnut.

Anyway, my main questions being:

1 - How will these woods take a heritage cherry kind of stain? The walnut will be significantly darker, right?

2 - I'm planning to use an oil finish, either tung oil or tru-oil. Someone told me that walnut doesn't react well to sunlight, with an oil finish, and discolors. Is this true?

3 - What brand of Tru-oil or tung-oil do you guys use? I'm looking for something no additives.

Just wanted to put an idea out there, why not use the 250K concentric pot and simply wire in the the correct resistor in parallel to make it value 25K?

http://projectguitar.com/tut/potm.htm

http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/calcrsp.htm

Looks like placing a 27.778k resistor in parallel with a 250K will yield 25K. Of course, allow for tolerances....But you should still arrive at a value close to 25K.

^Well, ideally, the frets get affected too, I thought. That's why Musikraft does it after the necks are fretted.

^Luckily, I like semi-wide necks, so it shouldn't be a problem.

^No, that sounds like it would work. I just wanted to double check, and make sure that way the best way to do it.

Up until recently, I had been setting aside money for an SG-ish build that had a bolt-on neck, which was to come from Musikraft.

However, I've decided to change it to a neck-through build. But I'd like to do my own fingerboard edges, like musikraft's:

https://musikraft.3dcartstores.com/Semi-Ver...s_c_16-1-1.html

How do I go about doing that? It looks really comfortable, and players who own it, that I've talked to, seem to love it.