Phil Mailloux

I'm surprised anyone has brought up this old thread of mine from the mothballs I've since changed the jig for a new setup using a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw. I had the Stewmac blade re-bored to fit the 30mm shank of my Metabo saw. The new setup is a lot nicer. The circular made a hell of a lot of noise it scared the living crap out of me. I would definitely recommend a table saw if you're looking into that, or a SCMS if you can afford a decent one that has vey little side play.

Here's mine slotting a fanned board. The template was made from MDF. The table has a long straight blade encrusted in it. The template pushes into it for each fret position and then you cut each fret slot this way. To slot normal frets just use a table with fence and an indexing pin in it for your normal templates.

I bought one of those. Nothing fancy and nothing really to write home about. After 2 ebay crowing files, I ended up buying the stew mac ones and they're the best.

Why two Ebay files? Did that one break down or start losing its diamond grits or something? Nothing to write home about but did it do the job right? Which Stewmac file did you end up buying?

No replies at all within a 24 hour window? wow...

This Ebay seller, 509mikev, has literally hundreds of sold diamond crowning files. Can't anyone comment on the quality of them? Someone must have one on PG, no?

I need to buy a diamond fret crowning file but am dead broke. I've seen this one on Ebay :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:X:RTQ:US:1123

Does anyone have this one and do they like it? I'm hesitating between that one and this Stewmac one:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...Fret_Files.html

I can't afford anything higher than that price. I'd love to hear about people's experiences with either of these two fret files. I'd prefer the cheaper Ebay one but am suspicious about the quality and longetivity of the file.

No one on this forum owns these books?

I've collected all the issues of Trade Secrets over the years in the Stewmac catalogs. These have exactly 44 issues.

The Stewmac Trade Secrets books only include the first 38 issues of trade secrets but include a bonus 8 page "issue 20" inside the book.

I would be willing to trade scans of the missing issues 39 to 44 to anyone willing to scan me the 8 bonus pages of issue 20 in the books. Please contact me through PM.

Bump.

I'm selling the Stewmac Dan Erlewine video "Make a Solid Body Electric guitar" on Ebay. It includes the original plans plus a DVD backup of the video.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=190230625812

They do not Radius 17", and the widest they Radius anyway is 3.25" (82.6mm) witch is 2mm too narrow.

Nobody radiuses at 17". Why don't you do it yourself? All you need is a plane and a sanding stick. There's no way you'll find exactly what you want and at a fair price and humane shipping to top it off.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....ado+Fingerboard

$13.60 + $7 for the scale slotting. They'll charge you less than $20 for the shipping if you order only that. That comes out to what? 25 euros? You won't find that for that price in Europe.

Yeah I actually work with Rob, I trained him on multicam 1, currently he's doing body building on Multicam 2... hes a good bloke, i think management are pretty stoked to have him...Hmm it was probably Patrick Evans you spoke with, bloody smart guy, full of all sorts of info.

It was an old guy with an earing, must have been 60 or something. I remember seeing him in the "History of Maton" movie they played at the Guitar Show. I think he was with the company for like 40 years or something. Gave me his card and a ticket for a free tour or the manufacture if I ever pass by Melbourne.

Yeah, Rob's a very nice guy, I miss him already, we had a great time chatting about bass guitar building.

I've got a mate who moved there from Brissie a few months ago to work with you guys (Rob) I had a chat with one of your managers a few years ago at the Brisbane guitar show. Would have loved to go work with you guys but the wifie didn't want to move to cold cold Melbourne

For that price you can't go wrong

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/50-Small-Transfer-P...ksid=p1638.m122

I'm a moron, I just noticed the end bit is huge

There you go, that looks better, 1ml ones. That looks like the Stewmac ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/500-Plastic-Transfer-P...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmm... superficially, at least, that GMC model looks suspiciously similar to the Ridgid.

I'm sure it's the same one. It probably comes from the same factory in China or Taiwan. All the brands I mentioned in my post up there are all the same thicknesser rebadged under different names. I want to know if some are made to better specs than other models basically.

A fairly cheap one like this: http://www.gmcompany.com.au/index.cfm?modu...cts&pid=608

These things get re-branded in different countries, so everyone would have their own version in their homeland.

I was looking at more expensive carba-tec machines but they do the same thing and this one had very good reviews.

Did you get the GMC one at bunnings? How much was it, about $300?

I've been looking at the Carbatec, Hafco and JET ones for a while and can't decide whether to go for the 12 1/2" ones around $300 or the 13" ones for $600-700. The 13" ones look better than the small ones but really, I have no idea how much of a difference they are. There's so many tools I have to buy and so little money

Not as far as you'd think. The bass now resides in Rochester NY. At least you don't have to take an inter-continental flight

35" scale

Jenny Craig. Hey, it works. The way it does work is they basically teach you how to eat proper portions of food. The reason 99.99999% of people that are oveweight is because we eat too much according to what our body should live on.

Anyway, you have to buy some of their food and they give you menus. You're pretty much told what to eat and you need to do 30 min of exercise 3 times a week and THAT together is engineered to make you lose between 1 to 2 pounds a week or 1% of your body weight (i.e. more than 2 pounds a week if you're realy overweight). If you do more exercise you lose more. It's dead easy, just stick to what they tell you to eat and you lose weight. Stick to it long enough and you'll lose a lot. Took me 8 months to lose 55 pounds (25,4 kg) after a while you get used to eat proper portions of food too.

BTW I thought JC was BS until my wife tried it (I originally rolled my eyes when she said she would) and she lost 25 pounds, so I didn't resist when she said I should try it too

Now that's a compliment, thanks!

I'm also with you. I used to be one of the "that is not playable" until you and a few others started posting those YouTube videos!

Speaking of which, if you already watched the video I posted of the 9 on the "in progress" thread, the guy playing it is just a local bass player who had never played more than a 6 string bass before. He had no problem adjusting to the 9 strings with just a few minutes of playing around with it.

Great! thanks for the tip Setch, I'll check it out.

Right! I forgot the video. This is a video taken during a Talkbass.com get-together in Brisbane last January. It's been edited to just show the 9 string bits.

The string in question came like this from Conklin. It's made by SIT strings. It does look weird since the winding doesn't start at the same level as the other ones but still sounds like it should. The screws were all placed around the pocket to make sure the neck won't move at all. It's missing that one screw in one corner because it's in the tummy cut and was getting dangerously thin there. The neck pickup pocket is also in that tummy cut area.

Here's also the sizes of the strings to give you an idea

C# 0.195", F# 0.165", B 0.135", E 0.110", A 0.080", D 0.055", G 0.035", C 0.025", F 0.018" The C# string is freaking huge it's like a cable. That one string was $35 The whole set cost $135, big chunck off my profits

Pics of the finished bass and daddy, 55 pounds lighter Notice the lack of neck dive. Comments are welcome, I feel like I'm posting to myself, 6 posts and no replys

When I first wired up the bass for the first time, I tried to get away from grounding all the individual bridges by just grounding the first string. That ended up being very inadequate, since the spacing is so wide you don't always touch the first string with your hands when playing so I had to ground them all separately.