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Phil Mailloux

Blues Tribute Group
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Posts posted by Phil Mailloux

  1. Not satisfied with building my own bass, I decided to also build the pick-ups and onboard preamp.

    The pick-ups will be MusicMan Stingray humbucker copies (5-string).

    I found a couple of websites with scematics of preamps:

    http://www.albertkreuzer.com/preamp_onboard.htm

    http://www.usq.edu.au/users/maxwell/person...ic/gear/rbx260/

    I'm more inclined to build the latter's "series 2" preamp (vol, treble, bass, active/passive switch)

    Does anyone have experience with building those or any other bass preamps?

    Any tips anyone?

    Know of any other sites where I can find other schems?

    Thanks

  2. If you used a red translucend stain on orange/brownish colored mahogany the color of the wood and the stain will naturally mix and produce an orangish color.

    To get a red translucend color with your stain, I would use a darker color like brown. The brown mixes with the orange/light brown coloring of your wood to give it a redish tint.

  3. I'd assume you're talking about Stingrays and S.U.B's?

    They're Ernie Ball/Music man built active humbuckers with a 3/8" diameter for the slugs, the magnets are ceramic.

    Seymour Duncan also makes replacement pick-ups for those basses in ceramic or alnicomagnets, 4-strings and 5-strings.

  4. Thanks Maestro, how did you find the dyes from LMII? I also ordered my fingerboard through them and was looking to try their dyes. They are a hell of a lot cheaper than the stewmac dyes!! Did you get the water of alcohool reducable ones? Did you stain the wood firt or mix it in the lacquer?

    You wouldn't know what's an english translation of "Salmiakgeist" ?

    BTW Ace, here in Holland I can access Clou Nitro-cellullose lacquer and dyes, turns out Clou is a German company. I was shown yesterday at a paint shop near my house powdered dyes and pigment of that Clou stuff in several different colors.

    I guess you could have a look at their website. www.clou.de

  5. I've got the same problem, I live in the Netherlands and I want to bleach mahogany but can't find the stuff.

    I e-mailed Rustin in england for info about their wood bleach product but they won't ship it to Holland and don't have distributors here either.

    I found on the net info on those A/B solutions they are:

    solution 1: Sodium Hydroxide

    solution 2: Hydrogen Peroxide

    The guy at the paint shop in my area told me to look for those products at an Apotheek!

    So anyway, i'll try to find those things and try it on scrap wood first.

    If you find anything in Germany , please post it so I can check it out too.

  6. :D (but stuck in the Netherlands)

    Hi,

    I'm planning to do a fender 3-tone sunburst on my guitar. I don't own any equipment but I am inclined to go for the Paasche H because of all the above mentioned reasons.

    My filling coat will be brushed on and my clear coats will be done out of Nitro-cellulose spray cans. I plan on mixing the dies directly in the lacquer that I will spray for the color coats.

    For the sunburst, How many big cans of aerosol air will I need to do the front and back of the guitar?

    For bursts am I better with the number 5, 3, or 1 tip?

    Do I have to do multiple passes/coats of the bursts or only one? (since the lacquer is extremely dilluted)

    Thanks

  7. Hi guys,

    I'm building myself a bass with mahogany. This mahogany has a medium-dark brown color. I want want to make a fender 3-tone sunburst on this bass but I think the yellow/amber color won't come out very nice because of the color of the wood.

    and so...

    Does anybody have ever bleached mahogany?

    How does it work?

    Did it come out pretty pale?

    Is it recommended?

    Any info about the whole procedure/experience is welcome.

    Thanks

  8. Hi,

    There's Jack music store, right next door to Steve's music store on St-Antoine street but i'm not sure that would qualify as "good". You really have to negotiate like a moron with those "bahstuhds".

    As for pawn shops i'd suggest grabbing the yellow pages and spend the day going from one pawn shop to another to look for deals. There's enough of them to keep you busy all week-end :D

    Good Luck.

  9. Hi guys,

    Newby to this forum, longtime fan of this website (6 months of drooling now).

    After all this drooling I finally decided to build my first complete guitar (5-string bass), I did build a strat body 7 years ago for a vintage Fender 1974 CBS neck I had bought but that was with lots of help. (In reality my friend had done most of the work). It's been made with hard ash I got at the local wood yard, the stupid thing weights a ton!

    So finally during X-mas time while I was back home in Canada I bought all the wood and did all the bandsaw cuts I needed. I brought back everything here, in the Netherlands where I live.

    I'm now at the part where I have to glue my Pao ferro fingerboard to my Mahogany neck. And truth be told I have NO idea what sorts of glue I should use.

    I heard that most luthiers use "Titebond". Is that true? and if so, is there a difference between titebond 1 and 2?

    Is there any difference with that and most regular wood glue you find at home depot (or Praxis if you live in the Nethelands)?

    What about epoxy?

    While I was in Montreal a luthier recommended me cold-cure epoxy from "Lee Valley", is there a difference with epoxies from this guy and other generic epoxies I could find here in Holland?

    I can find Titebond here at Vox Humana Guitar center (thanks to whoever posted their link on the guitar project site) but at 16 Euro per bottle it's a lot more than glue you'll find at home depot. And as far as epoxies go, i'd rather buy something here than have something sent through the post from the states or Canada.

    Man! my book is finally finished.

    So anyway, anybody can clarify this for me, or just give their opinions on what I should use?

    Thanks guys.

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