arcus94

These are in very tightly--not even glued..I thought I drilled deep enough, but they need to go in about 1-1.5mm more--lots of differnce in playing action there, and I don't want to have to ship the neck up...BTW, the guitar has a tru-oil finish-easy to fix. Any advice?

What's the best way to fill or repair stripped mounting screw holes on single coild pickups? Epoxy and then drill new holes? Melt the material arounf the hole w/ a soldering iron? What's the safest way(with regard to the pickup?) thanks!!

This is a question from B. Calvert and other SAGA dealers...I have a friend that works fro SAGA and asked him about the sealer coat on their "PRS-style" kit. i have a customer that wants the translucent top-look. i understand that the sealer used prohibits analine stains from penetrating the veneer top. However, it would be good to know what the sealer is made of so that I knew better how to take it to bare wood. I am reluctant to sand, as I don't want to go through the veneer. Does anyone have experience staining any SAGA kits, even the S-or T style? Will the sealer thin or lift off w/mineral spirits or naptha? How did you go about it? This veneer top does not leave much margin for erroe. Please respond quickly--I'm in a jam!

Any way to remove it besides a chisel? I have some extra that has dryed on...will naptha work?

Anyone ever used a 2Tek guitar or bass bridge?

Do NOT buy the Gotoh tuners from Grizzly...I have just spent a week trying to return their stock#H3059-Gotoh locking tuners w/adjustable posts and locks...I ordered on their website. I like 3 x 3 tuners w/keystone knobs. Anyway, they are the Gotoh model SG503, which are not locking, nor have HAP!!!!!!!Apparently, the new hard copy catalog corrects this, but their website still has the wrong info...I called, asked the guy to look up the stock# on the website, and he says they don't have access. I had to fax a screen print of the webpage and description along with a letter stating that due to misrepresentation, I will not -pay 10-20% restock on this item. Now, they have taken care of me, given me an RA number, and say that they will refund the return shipping as well as the item. $ 30 is not a great deal and it took too much work to take care of this. buy somewhere else, or get Sperzels--I've had luck w/ them.

The string through inserts at the top--yes, ESP, Schecter, Ibanez, etc., etc. use small inserts on the top...I've checked all the parts suppliers and cannot find them--does the brass tubing hold up or should I just use normal ferrules on both sides?

I have heard of one solution, but I haven't tried it...at an auto parts or hardware store, purchase a set of feeler guages (usually about $5USD)--which you should have to measure nut height and slot depth, anyway--and serrate them, using them as fret saw/files. That, mixed w/polishing compound and/or extremely fine wet/dry sandpaper should recut and unburr any nut--if you don't want to shell out for nut files. By the way, I priced everyone, and the basic set of Japanese nut files from Warmoth was the least expensive. Good luck

I'm going to mount a wilkinson on a swamp ash strat body w/no neck angle. I'm using a Warmoth neck I've had forever with a very thick rosewood board...I want a little pullback..should I rout behind the wilkinson, or does the standard mount seem to pitchbend to and fro OK?

I am building a guitar w/ the Carvin 25" scale and a tonepros nashville w/thru body stringing. I have read differing accounts of the bridge andgle on the tune-o-matic. Should it be angled back on the bass side 1/8" off the scale line? Should the high "e" post be on the 25" scale line. Also, the Tone pors has a 12" radius and the CArvin has a 15" radius. I'll probably use 10s and I don't want to run out of intonation room....Advice?