Imzadi

If you are looking for something you can brush on indoors, I would suggest Minwax Polycrylic. It's available at most places that carry Minwax products. It will never look as smooth as a sprayed finish, but I am assuming you brushed the acrylic paint on anyway. The polycrylic should be compatible with the acrylic, but try it on a test piece first, just in case.

I hadn't thought of that. Actually, I'm doing a kind of sponge type finish, that's rough looking , kind of looks like quilting on wood. So the clear finish wouldn't have to be exactly smooth. Or at least it wouldn't be as noticeable.

Glad to know about the tru oil too. Thanks!

I've got a Squier body that I'm just playing around with, and decided to paint it with acrylic artist paints. Could I use Tru oil to put a coating on it or do I need to spray it? I need to use something that I can do indoors since it's too cold outside to be spraying.

+1 Jon.

I use my soldering iron and press it into pea-sized lumps of soaked toilet tissue.

So the wood will fill out? How does this work? If it wasn't on the front of the bass, I wouldn't worry so much about it.

It works quite well!!!

The wood is compressed with the dent. The steam gets in there and expands the wood fibers to nearly its original shape. If the fibers are broken - cut or snapped in the wood itself, steaming wont work. Usually, you get some broken fibers and some bent fibers... the bent ones straighten out and the cut or broken ones.. dont. You end up with a better situation than when you started.

I just steamed out a dent in a NEW Les Paul (arrived with a nasty dent). It came up to about 85-90 percent of what the dent was. The small place left over... got hit with a bit of extra lacquer when I refinished it (bfg, begging for refinihs)

I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

+1 Jon.

I use my soldering iron and press it into pea-sized lumps of soaked toilet tissue.

So the wood will fill out? How does this work? If it wasn't on the front of the bass, I wouldn't worry so much about it.

Not that I've ever tried it, but I think the steaming method may work. It's worth a shot at least.

Steaming? Do you have a link to that?

Pat

What do you do when this happens? I've stripped the old finish off of my Precision bass body (which was dark green) and am going to refinish it back to it's original natural finish. However I've found that over the years several dings and scratches have developed with normal use and the paint is down in these little craters. I don't want to sand all the way down because some of these are 1/8 in deep or so. Would you put some kind of grain filler or something in it? Since I'm refinishing it back natural I don't want it to look like it's got spots on it. Any suggestions?

You should be able to find tru-oil at a gun shop.

Just as an FYI, DEFT (and similar products) is not poly. They are nitro. The feeling is really irrelevant for the body though, I would think. You could just do tru-oil on the neck for the feel.

CMA

I'll check it out. Btw, do you know if poly or nitro cures faster? I generally don't like poly but I was thinking that if I didn't put as thick of a coat on it (like Fender does) maybe it wouldn't be so bad.

Thanks for the link. Well, it sounds like I can go either way. If I use Tru oil though, I can put the guitar together quicker, right? With Deft I have to wait a month to let it cure? I like the idea of a harder finish. But I HATE poly finishes. They feel so plastic and unnatural. I like feeling the wood. I have a Warwick Standard bass that I just love the feel of. Would the the Tru oil give me more of that kind of feeling finish? Oh and where do you get Tru oil? I've seen Formby's tung oil and Danish oil at Lowes, but not Tru oil.

Nice pictures!

I think the staining is beyond me. I don't have any scrap to test it with because I'm just getting the body, not making it. Do you think if I spray it with Deft it will bring out the finish as well as Tru oil? I want something fairly simple and that doesn't take 6 months to cure.

I've read a lot on here about Tru oil but I've never used it. When I ordered the body I figured I could just clear coat it but now I'm not sure what I want to do. I want the flame top to stand out but I want it to look cool too.

Any thoughts???

It's going to be light wood, and I haven't seen a lot of light wood with an oil finish. Just wondering if it would work very well....

Hi all,

Just bought a body very similar to this:

http://warmoth.com/showcase/sc_guitar_bodi...eWood_filter=13

And I was wondering what you guys would do to finish it? I'm thinking either oil or Deft. I want to keep the natural finish, but to really bring out the grain I'm not sure exactly what to do with it. I'm going to use it with a MIM strat neck and electronics.

Thanks,

Pat

I think alot of tele fans simply rub KIWI tan boot poish into the clear coat to age it.

You could tint the lacquer but you'd have to ptactise to get the right shade.

I've heard that about the boot polish. How strange. You would think it would rub off!

You can buy tinted lacquer from reranch just build it up till your happy with the color then add some chips and scratches and wa la.

Except that I wouldn't want it to end up orange! But that's an idea. I would like to get it back to looking like it did.

Hi all,

This is my first post here but I've been reading the forum for quite some time. My question is this...I've got a 1975 Fender Precision bass that I've refinished several times. It's currently a dark green color and I would like to strip it down and take it back to it's original color, which was just a natural finish. The body is Ash. My concern is that since the neck has aged to that amber color now that if I refinish it back to natural, that the neck might look funny on it. Is there some way to get the body to look like the neck? Would I need to tint the clear coat or would poly just turn amber after a while?