balooka

I never really browsed on their website before, but those tuners look OK indeed. These might be good (enough) for my first project...

I just have to wait untill someone with actual knowledge about them replies

(Plunge)router.

hmmm

I think Javacody has a point. If you look at the lower horn there actualy is grainpattern that lines up with the darker wood. Could be your monitor not showing it, I'm using a calibrated Barco, and there is grain, very faint. If you open the image in photoshop and measure the colorvalues, you can 'see' the pattern by its corresponding cmyk/rgb numbers.

So for what I see, there is corresponding grainpattern

what I did on a testbody (with 2 different horns): make 2 points, in my case two small pyramid shaped blocks just along the sides of the pocket, as close to the body-egde as i could. This made 2 straight 'swivel' points (sp?), on which i laid down the template and I raised the back of the template with a thin piece of wood to make the angle needed. All I did then was secure the template with a bunch of clamps, thats about it.

I hope you get what I mean, my explanatory skills arent all that, and I made scrap f the body I did it on :/

-

About the gap, the neck im making has an angled fretboard/heel at the back, and because of that I'll need to leave some space between the neck and the pickup to get the cavities perpendicular to the centerline. So a gap will show.

Way cool Alex,

Thats what I had in mind, aside from a diff type of cavity and the screws coming in from the back!

Awesome job!

Lol, I have no clue what that was about Idch, but I'll refer to it as naked from now on, ok

About the wimmin, well I'm in Holland. So maybe my 'urge' to get a 'naked' guitar comes from that...

jP

aah yeah - I remember that guitar now! looks awesome! It's pretty much what I was planning on doing, except with the screws on the back.

Brian, I'm still figuring out if I can do it 'the easy way', but sofar I'm trying this on some scrap, using 2 different templates. If it works out (or not) I'll let you know

jP

cool. really?

Which one is it? The 7-string Baritone?

jP

ps. I'm not trying to invent something new, I did google around but came up with nothing, I just want to make it as clean as I can.

How does a normal pickup sound to you, which is also mounted via two screws and springs, in a void of PLASTIC ??

←

lol sounds good, but this void is a tad bigger than normal pupcavities

thx

jP

Hi

I got my bodyblanks (back and top) planed to thickness today, and from the moment I started to draw out this guitar I've been trying to keep it as clean as possible. I figured out a way (I think) to avoid pickuprings and avoid routing out room for the ears. What I will end up with (if I succeed that is) is a clean cavity in the top, big enough to house the pup, but hiding the ears. My biggest worry however is that I'm not sure how it will effect the sound (if at all). Thing is, the pup will only be attached to the body with 2 screws from the back (no backplates) and a couple of springs, so it'll 'hang' in a void. I've read here that direct mounting them enhances the sound (somewhat), but does that also mean I'd decrease the sound if I were to do it 'my' way?

thanks

jP

ps. I had a hard time explaining this to another dutch dude, and translating it into english might even make it worse, hope you catch my drift

hi

looking sweet - but i also must mention im not into acoustics alot. Still, looks sweet.

Is the soundhole offcenter for a purpose?

psst, the forumrules say you may only post one pic per post (and link the others).

jP

lol all I see is that you like pointy guitars. You might want to draw out an existing body (one you like ofcourse) and mod it to your 'own' design. That way the balance is already there. Just a thought (and how I did 'my' design)...

As for the laminates... I wanted to use some of the scrap that came from the body to veneer the heastock with. I made a deadsimple jig that worked like a charm. My veneer on the headstock is 1.8mm (0.07") and I did a test on getting it to 1mm... and that worked perfectly. All I need to get it that thin is a sharp routerbit and patience...

The EasyAsHell Jig - First Results (this is 2mm).

If you set it up correctly, it'll be flawless. Tapering the middle laminate I'll do on my next project (lol the second that is)... should be an easy mod on a jig much like the one shown... i think.

thanks for the info everyone,

One more thing, do you bend the veneer with the grain or across is? I've made some 1.8 mm veneer (router worked like a charm) for the front of the headstock, and i have some strips left over. The grain is running over the length of the strips, so a bend would be across it, but I don't *think* that will work ok, or will it?

I did some testing to get it to 1 mm and that worked great too...

TIA

jP

Phil

You have to register on mimf first, go the the forum and at the bottom of all topics there's a ibrary button... on that page scroll down to the searchfield and do a search for 'Howard Klepper backstrapping'... like seth said. The first link you get is awesome!

hth

jP

awesome setch! thanks alot! So basically it's 'just' putting some laminated veneer on the back of the headstock and a part of neck. So when you carve the neck to headstock transition it would appear 'all by itself). Carving a volute would leave more of the laminates and the effect would increase....... right?

Man I wish I paid more attention in Englishclass!

Again, thanks!

hmm i think i missed something there (again).. Did you mean to say that the veneer is the volute? And *not* veneer over a volute?

If so, you could cut the 'volute' rounding on the laminated veneer before glueing it on?

jP

yeah looks awesome. I couldnt tell how they do it, there are hardly any pics from the side. That 'bending veneer' came to mind, but I kinda figured it would be pretty hard to pull it off.

I'm gonna try it with some scrap just to see how hard it really is.

Thanks for the info

Hi

I was on Alembics site once again and I really can't seem to grasp how they do the back of the headstock. I mean the outer most veneer that seems to run 'into' the neck. I'd get it if the headstock was angled upwards... which it isnt

Can someone please explain this to me??

THIS is what I mean (posted the link cause i dont want to hijack their pics)

TIA

jP

hmmm never heard of it, but i had my transmission oil changed the other week and while i was there the dude just fnished putting the goo in, didnt smell to fancy... I wouldnt use it lol

is it possible to correct the bad taper by redoing it (where possible) and bind the board to fill the 'gaps'?

Hi

I'm taking measurements from antoher guitar (as a reference), and it has sperzels on it. Im finishing the headstock of my project-neck but I'm not sure the distance from the headstock side to the center of the holes are uniform for most other brands (havent decided what I'm going to slap on my project-neck). Am I safe to assume that the distance would be (almost) the same for other brands? The sperzels center are 12mm (.5") away from the side.

TIA

jP

Red tonewoods? Is cherry concidered to be 'red'? Mine is looking pretty pale, and not just on the freshly planed side... Thats also why I asked about the staining process. My brother owns an industrial paintshop and I'm gonna try some stuff on some leftover cherry to see what can be done about the colors.

The laminates are mahogany and cherry...

jP

I'm currently building my first neck, havent even started on anything concerning the body yet... So far things are looking great, but I must say I've read nearly every topic on PG concerning necks, drawn and redrawn multiple full scale models before even drawing a line on the woodblanks.

For me the 'confidence' building activity was drawing and making correct and accurate templates. The templates make it so much easier, but I could still totaly screw this up when its fretting time :/ Oh well, we'll see, I still have fun figuring out how to make all steps 'foolproof'...

ok thanks, too bad it wont work, i'll go with ebony then. Since we're on about cherry anyway and some of you seem to work/have worked with it, can you stain it, let's say, blue or green and keep the grain, like with maple? My soon-to-be-droptop has some nice figure, but if I put some naphta on it, its a tad too brown/warm... if you catch my drift

* I did use the searchfunction as always *

I have some cherry that I used to laminate a mostly mahogany neck with, and I still have alot left over (I'm gonna use it as a top also). Anyway, I did order a fretboard (which is taking a long time to get here I now realise) but I want to use the cherry to make a fretboard that matches the top. Is american cherry good enough for that or is it too soft, or any other reasons why this would probably fail?

TIA

jP