sunnydaze

Thanks for the help guys. Just have to motivate myself to finish sanding. Have gotten into tube amp building lately and can't seem to get focused on the final sanding on this guitar.

Thanks again

michael

Hi,

I'm getting ready to finish my second build, my first build used a bolt on style neck and this one is a setneck. On the bolt on style, I built simple "handles" that attached to the neck pocket for the body and the base of the neck.

Curious as to what others use to hold a set neck guitar while finishing. My plan is hang the guitar from the screw hole on the body the will be used for the bridge side strap button.

FWIW>I've tried several searches and wasn't able to find much.

Thanks in advance.

Michael

Yes, I did a search. No, I couldn't find the answer.

Traditionally, the grain on the body runs North/South. I understand why it runs that way on the neck: strength. Is that the same reason for it on the body? I was considering the possibility of either horizontal or diagonal grain for a body. If it's structurally a bad idea, can y'all tell me why?

Another thought is a back going horizontal with the top going vertical. This might have a stabalizing effect similar to plywood.

Hi Avenger,

Checkout this topic - I had pretty much the same question about a year ago and got a couple of pages of useful replies. FWIW - I couldn't find this using the search function either - I tried using my handle, the title etc. nada....

Found it in my personal profile.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry337875

Anyway, hope it helps.

Good Luck

Michael

have you tried this one? seymour duncan diagram

Thank you, although the pickups are gibsons it's still a good diagram, i'll try that tonight.

did you use the stereo jack that the emgs used?

Yep, but I replaced it with the original when I switched back.

The Stereo jack shouldn't make any difference as long as they wired the tip and sleeve up right.

Have you got a Mulit Meter handy you can test everything with? Failing that you could start again and wire in one pickup at a time and see if you can get it working that way. Then start to add the other pickup and 3 way selector switch?

I don't have any kind of meters or testers, but I will try that approach!. One of my main problems is the only wire I have is some red-sleeved copper wire from radio shack. It works, but having all one color is kind of confusing.

Thanks everyone so much!

Hope this isn't too basic. A lot of Gibson pickups come equipped with the metal braided covering on the wires, compared to a plastic covering on a lot of other pickups. If this is the case with your pickups, the outside metal covering on the wire needs to be connected to ground - usually sodered to the back of the pot, with the exposed tip of the wire continuuing on the appropriate lug of the pot. If this ground connection isn't made, you won't get any sound at all.

hope this helps

I'm no expert, but I was able to remove the fretboard from a 30 plus year old Gibson SG fairly easy:

Was trying the iron and it finally started to work, but very slow. Then I decided to just heat up the very thin paint scraper I was using to cut the heated glue line - so I just put the scraper over my gas stove top until it got pretty hot. The hot scraper went throught the glue line like butter. I woud cover about four inches and then need to be reheated. Don't overheat, or you'll scorch the wood.

hope this helps.

What are the dimensions of the body and your rough wood?

I'm sure someone here can help figure out the best way to lay it out.

Thanks for helping.

It's a big beautiful slab - she's 17 x 24 x 1.75 (inches). I am also a little restricted on how/where to cut because I am trying to pick the most "lively" and beautiful section for the initial body cut. Not sure if the way I am trying to pick the lively spot makes sense, but if you knock on the wood in different places, it feels and sound different - some spots seem kind of lively and some spots seem kind of dead.

I would really appreciate if can comment on the merrits of trying to pick a lively spot in the wood, and if so, the best way to pick the section.

Thanks again

I don't recommend it - it means your string tension is acting across the grain, not along it, and it means you'll have a lot more end grain to deal with when sanding and finishing. IMO sanding end grain is the most tedious and frustrating part of solid body construction.

Wow - that was quick! Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I've already put so much time and effort in this thing, I am going to go ahead and cut it so the grain is parallel to the strings or same direction as the neck. I'm sure I can figure out a way to use the left over sections. I am an American living in Taipei and it's been kind of tough to find some of the stuff I need. Fortunately, my company's stateside office supports us Ex-pats pretty good and has been shipping my StewMac orders for me. I'm going to try StewMacs waterbased finishing products, cause the nitro stuff can't be shipped overseas very easily.

Thanks again guy's I really appreciate the help.

Another new guy here. I've been reading this forum for awhile and really appreciate the extremely helpful information people have taken the time to post.

Anyway, I am in the process of building my first guitar - actually it's gonna be my first two guitars. I bought some fairly large piece of maple for the neck and ended up making two - nearly done now. Aside from kind of ugly headstock, they should be OK.

I have a large piece of mahogany that is big enough for two bodies if I cut it so that the grain is running perpindicular to the neck rather than the same direction as the neck like most guitars I've seen.

Would greatly appreciate any comments on this before I cut this piece of mahogany.

Thanks

PS>Building a guitar has been a great learning experience so far - but now it seems I hardly have time to play....