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Keegan

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Posts posted by Keegan

  1. There are two "channels" on it. The rhythm channel uses just the neck pickup and its controls are on the upper horn. The lead channel is fully configurable with whichever pickups you want(first and second switch on the lower horn) and then the third switch on the lower horn is a treble bleed(.003uF cap and 56kohm resistor) on a normal Jaguar. The volume and tone near the jack are also for the lead channel. Each channel also has different impedance values. The lead has two 1Meg controls with a .01uF capacitor and the rhythm has a 1Meg and 50K control and a .01uF cap.

    Here's a neat interactive demo of the controls http://www.webrocker.de/jaguar/cms/2007/05...ractive-jaguar/

  2. Those are all good combinations. Seems like you still have all the bases covered. You aren't missing much not having the neck + middle in series or bridge + middle in parallel.

    Plus that gives you the option of going back to a single pickup without having to fiddle with the slide switches.

  3. It wouldn't be weird. Each position has its own solder lugs, they aren't shared like the normal strat 5-way.

    You can't block 2 and 4. You could have your middle selection carry over to 2 and 4 though, so you just knock the switch all the way one way for pos 1, all the way the other for 3, and anywhere inbetween for pos 2

  4. Planning sort of a modernized Jaguar parts build. Thought you guys might be interested.

    Specs-

    Body: USACG Mahogany Jaguar Top-routed, Midnight Wine finish

    Neck: USACG Maple/Rosewood US-4 headstock, Asymmetric, .850" thickness, 10-16" radius, 24" scale length, 22 frets, 1.650" nut width, 6105 frets, top truss rod adjust, satin finish

    Pickups: SD Vintage Jaguar Neck RWRP, SD Stag Mag Humbucker Bridge

    Controls: Custom Jaguar wiring

    Bridge: Hipshot Hardtail

    Tuners: Schaller locking

    Pickguard: Custom Black Pickguard

    Control Layout:

    Jaguarcopy.jpg

    Thinking of building a tube amp Tweed Deluxe-style and 212 cab(with eminence cannabis rex's) to go with it.

    Now I just need the money to do it :D

  5. You could use just the first 3 positions of the super 5-way if you were so inclined. Or just think of something to do with those extra positions.

    Or there's this http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/S...itchChrome.html

    But that's a toggle, sorry.

    edit: I just had an idea for the 5-way. You could make the hole smaller so that the switch could only travel to 3 positions. If the hole is already cut, you can put a small metal plate on top.

  6. Hmm, it looks like the only difference is the shaft.

    I was looking at these http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectron.../C/mini_pot.jpg

    I suppose I could use the original ones if I needed to, but I'm designing a new circuit and wanted to use 500k/250k.

    I guess I can't go wrong with the original rhythm controls with the original Jaguar neck pickup I'm using. 45kohms of impedance on the neck pickup just seems odd though.

    Here was my idea, except instead of a jaguar pickup in the bridge it'd have a P-90:

    Jaguar.jpg

    Thanks though. I wish they gave specifications on the inside diameter of the rollers.

  7. You should be able to get one from a nearby PRS dealer. I don't know of any other place that sells them, since they're stock hardware, but I assume you need it to replace an original PRS bridge. Alternatively you could fill the stud holes with dowels and put a Tonepros in.

    edit: Here's PRS's adjustable one http://www.elderly.com/accessories/names/p...ld--ACC4006.htm

    The non-adjustables go for $175 from PRS, so it'd also be cheaper to just get a Tonepros. Here's a cool place I found that sells every kind of tonepros bridge imaginable http://www.marquisdistribution.com/store/index.php

  8. looks like these what im looking for...

    4e93_3.JPG

    You can get #10 threaded inserts and machine screws at any hardware store. #8 might do too, but I stuck with 10 because that's the size of the normal neck screws.

    If you want to buy online you could try ebay or Ed Roman sells a kit(though it costs way more than the hardware itself would, $20): http://www.edroman.com/parts/IS_specialparts.htm#DCK

    Woodcraft has the inserts, but I'd stick with their 8-32 because the 3/8" pilot hole for the 10-32 might go through the side of the neck.

    http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?Prod...p;FamilyID=1048

    Machine screws are easy to find, you probably want 1-1/2" length, measure your neck pocket to see.

    It's better to buy hardware in-store though.

  9. I've been looking for a gutiar with a neck that suits my big hands, so I might as well ask... Does anyone know of a (cheaper) guitar make and model with a neck like Warmoth's wide/fat one (1-3/4" or 44.5mm nut width and 1" or 25,4 mm height at 1st fret)?

    I've looked at the specs of Epiphones, Squiers, etc and found none. Preferably a hardtail with 24 3/4" scale length, but If it has a thick and wide neck, I'm not picky.

    /Alex

    Not sure of the specs on PRS SE necks, but they're supposed to be wide and fat.

    Agile has some 1-3/4" wide necks but they're only 21.5mm at the first fret.

    Classic Vibe Squiers have C-profile necks, which are pretty thick.

    If you want a cheap guitar with a fat neck, you could just get an SX and put a Warmoth neck on it. That'd run you around $350, about the price of an Epiphone.

  10. My body has finished in at just under 6 pounds. I think the blank was like 9-10. I think it's mostly going to be a recording guitar anyways, and I like heavier guitars when I don't have to carry them.

    Never been a fan of those little 5-pound guitars though. They feel like toys. 8-9lb is a good weight.

    edit: Weight doesn't really mean crap for tone. Maybe sustain, but tone depends more on the type of wood and even more on the pickups. People might think heavier guitars sound fuller and get more sustain because Les Pauls are made of mahogany which happens to be heavy.

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