Keegan

I voted for low end fuzz because I liked the bass the best aside from dayvo's LP and I knew the LP was going to get most of the votes. The lacewood on the headstock should have been on front though, since all of the other lacewood was on front and all of the other lamination was on the back.

I wanted to vote for Mitch but the headstock and control layout put me off. It could have used some dye, too.

Also, Avenger deserves an honorable mention for the finish on that doublecut.

Thanks. I just bought some 600 to do just that before you posted. I read your mind or something

Is it import or US?

US(single coil screws): http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_part...ght_Screws.html

Import(strat style): http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_part...ing_Screws.html

The US switches have no casing and are made of metal with silicon wafers. Import switches have a plastic housing with the pins on bottom.

They also have the switches there, but they come with nickel screws.

Hmm, just figured out I love metal instrumentals, but the lyrics are what I hate.

I like fat asymmetric necks with a good place for your thumb and a fairly skinny and round fretboard.

Hate Ibanez necks. They might be faster but they hurt sooner. Fender necks are my favorite, though they could be thicker. Gibson necks are a bit flat. Haven't tried Warmoth necks yet.

The back of the neck on the acoustic I have feels the best to me, but not quite thick enough. It's about 7/8", so I think an inch thick boat-neck might be about right. The Fender neck I have feels the best on the front, and it's 9.5" radius.

I have pretty long hands with skinny fingers. 7-1/4" long(from wrist to tip of middle finger) and 9" finger spread(tip of thumb to tip of pinkie)

Oops, sorry, didn't mean lacquer, I meant varnish.

Well megapixels don't really mean anything relevant to the quality of the photos, they're just a selling point. 3-5MP is all you'd ever need. More important are the adjustments available so that you can take a good picture with correct colors and the amount of noise that's introduced into the picture.

Digital cameras are still nowhere near 35mm film in terms of quality, but they are easy to use and you don't waste all that film.

I'd say the Bocote, since it has some colors similar to both the limba and the walnut, plus it's own unique grain that would look good on a fingerboard.

edit: Or if you have enough extra walnut you could use it for the fretboard too. Or if you have extra limba, use it and ebonize it.

What kind of glue did you use? Titebond? I've heard of this happening with water-based glues because they cause the wood to expand.

Tru-oil is just polymerized oil where danish is an oil/varnish blend. All oils are yellowing, though. All non-water-based finishes are too, like poly and varnish, just not as much as straight oil.

The quality of production has gone up with CNC, but the quality of materials and the price people are willing to pay for things has gone down.

Also electronics have become more consistent and more efficient, but this actually meant that they became less musical. Now the best electronics for music are only produced half as well as they used to be in Russia and China. Tubes for example have stopped being produced in the US(as far as I know) and the Russian and Chinese ones aren't as good. NOS US tubes are still the best.

Tone capacitors are the other electronic component that has been killed by time. PIO capacitors aren't produced much at all anymore even though they're very simple(basically aluminum foil and tissue paper soaked in oil) though they sound better for audio applications.

Metal and wood for guitars has also decreased in quality because of worldwide demand. Most hardware now is brass, which doesn't resonate as well as steel or aluminum, which is what hardware was made out of in the 50s. Good wood is becoming more rare too because we've realized(hopefully) that we can't just go cutting down every tree we like, we have to keep forests well-maintained or there will be no more trees to cut down.

Guitars are now being designed to be very muddy too, to stay balanced with new solid-state electronics, and to give enough output to meet the excessive gain levels of today. Most modern pickups are overwound to ridiculous specs, 12-15kohms when 8k will do just fine.

Audio is a strange world where more efficient electronics = worse sounding because of the way we interpret sounds. There are certain harmonics our brain likes more than others, and solid state roughly reproduces all harmonics equally as well(not quite, but more so than tubes). Tubes accentuate certain harmonics that our brains really like, like a good tone wood. Solid state would be like building an acoustic guitar out of aluminum. Sure it produces the best sound from a mathematical standpoint, but it'd sound like **** to any sane human being.

Hopefully we'll progress to the point where we get something 'modern' that sounds better than the old vintage stuff. In another decade we'll probably all be playing molded hemp or organic plastic guitars with hex output into synthesizers/modelers with tube simulation anyways =P

One thing in audio that has really gotten better is audio reproduction though. CDs, Amplifiers, and speakers emulate very well what was originally played, so you don't lose even more harmonics to putting the audio through all those tubes and vinyl and alnico speakers again. I quite like CDs into solid-state stereo amplifiers and neodymium speakers, so maybe our tastes will evolve with the technology as well.

edit: Another testament to the idea that it's the technology and not the time that makes vintage stuff better is that new reproductions of vintage pickups sound just as good.

There is some nostalgia that goes into it too, though. Old stuff always seems cooler. There's also the organic feeling of old electronics compared to the sterile factory-produced connotation that new stuff carries.

Hmm, nevermind. I just put on a second coat and the stain nearly washed away, especially on the side grain.

Maybe it's better to use water-based dyes with oil.

Doesn't stain have to go on dry wood? I just used Danish over stain and had no problem. A bit of stain came off but not enough to change the color of the wood.

I found a non-sugar sweetener that I actually like. I've been drinking "VitaminWater 10" quite a bit lately. Not soda, but I imagine the sweetener (stevia) will be in soda soon.

Stevia's been around for awhile. I think it tastes kind of bitter though. That's probably why they don't use it. It'd taste too much different from the normal soda.

Watco Danish Oil.

And because I haven't placed the 4th one yet.

edit: Yeah, it was just the temperature I put it on at. This time it was like 70 and it tacked up within 45 minutes. Also helped that this coat was on top of the wood instead of in the wood.

This oil is taking forever to dry. First coat is just now getting tacky. Granted I did put it on at like 55 degrees and it's been sitting at only around 65-70 ever since.

Once it's dry would it be safe to use 600 grit to smooth it before putting on another coat? Or should I use scotch brite/1200 grit/0000 steel wool?

Have you checked out Harmony Central or Ultimate Guitar reviews?

I can tell you that it won't sound like a tube amp though, because it isn't. But you can put something like http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=40448 in the effects loop to get something tubier.

What about screws? If there's not enough wood behind the pickup to direct mount it and you don't want to put mounting rings on, you could bring the screws in from the back.

Or you could direct mount with machine screws with nuts on the other side sunk into the wood so that they didn't stick out.

Yes, I realize that. Thanks.

It works great over stain. Tru-Oil is polymerized oil, so it'll dry faster than any of the other oils and you can build a finish with it(though 2-4 coats is plenty, if it isn't shiny enough for you after a few coats you can rub it hard with a cloth to raise the sheen). Don't put too much on though, as it's not a hard finish and will get gummy if you build it too much.

Don't use it if you plan on abusing this guitar or if you want a glossy hard finish. It won't protect much from wear or water and doesn't build like lacquer or poly. Do use it if you need something easy that gives a great-looking satin finish, or if you just like the feel of an oil finish. It's also easily repairable because if you get a scratch you can just throw more oil on it.

Use the search to look for build threads and more detailed instructions on applying it.

Edit: Here's a good guide from LMII http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/TruOil.htm

Got the first coat of oil on it.

Not too shabby for my first..

Series divides them instead of adding like they would in parallel, which is what I want to do. That link confirms that series is useful for guitar though, thanks.

pro tip:

the coolest button to use as a killswitch is the happ arcade button.

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/601200xx.htm

The only problem is that you have to drill a crater in your guitar, haha.

1. Is there any reason that two capacitors in series wouldn't work to give a treble boost(over one capacitor)? I know theoretically if I use 2 .033uF capacitors in series I'll get .0165uF, but does that work for a guitar?

2. What values of capacitance would you recommend for an overwound alnico 5 humbucker and split coil in the bridge on a walnut guitar? I was thinking either .015uF and .022uF or .0165uF and .033uF.