cajunboy2k

I found a bunch of good stuff here.

https://sites.google.com/site/guitarplanscollection/pdf-files/other-brands

I used these.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/11/25/1607035/Strat.pdf

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/11/25/1607035/Tele.pdf

Measurements are in milimeters.

I'm going to be painting a guitar with a urethane type paint and of course need to seal the body. Can anyone recommend a sanding sealer that is compatible with urethane paints? Thanks

I asked ALSA Corp. the same question, and the emaild me a link to their primers. Only $9.99 a can.

http://www.dynatonecorp.com/

I was looking around the internet and found this link.

It advertises the "PAINT YOUR OWN GUITAR '" series of books.

Plus, they sell Dupont Chromabase paint in spray cans. Also, they have a 2 part poly clear in a spray can.

The prices are a bit high, but what isn't now days?

http://www.touchupspraypaint.com/paint_your_own_guitar.php

I searched PROJECT GUITAR for these products, but didn't find any threads about them.

I hope this helps in finding a quasi-affordable way to get good finishing results.

I haven't seen this one posted yet.

http://www.jemsite.com/vrg/

Music to my ears.

Thanks guys.

I bought this neck a few years ago. I was hopping to use it for an "S" style Ibanez body. Now I have a plan for a BC Rich Gunslinger body that I will put it on.

By the looks of the frets, it was played pretty hard. All the frets down to #13 look like this. I was wondering if I should get the frets leveled, or just re-fret the whole thing.

Are these the same plans that you have?

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/11/25/1607035/SG.pdf

Thanks for the compliments. I used The Gimp to scale the picture. I put in the actual length and width in inches. Since it is just a line drawing, individual scaling should be simple.

I'm currently working on Strat, Tele, Les Paul, V, RG and SG templates. I have the measurements for these.

I need the overall length and width of a Warlock, and I will make one of it as well.

I also removed the sig graphic. Don't want to break any rules.

I do have a question for the experts:

When I print these templates out, how do I find the center line?

Ok thanks. I'll try this later tonight.

Just curious, did you print it out, or are you using your computer screen?

EDIT...

I used a different hosting site for the file. Flicker resizes the picture. This new link should keep it full size.

http://www.savefile.com/files/1206998

Hey Bro.

Its alittle to small mate. Good try thou mate...

See if you could make it bigger.

How much too small?

I used MM Axis width of 12 5/8" as the body scale.

This is my first attempt at making a template. You are all welcome to download it and try it out.

I found an excellent top body shot of a Warmoth VW, and just had to try and make the template.

I used Gimp to scale and outline it.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.savefile.com/files/1206998

A quick question about the Trem-King: Does it require a locking nut, or will a regular nut and locking tuners work?

Ok, I'm going to post this everytime someone asks for a blueprint

The simplest way:

Find a picture on google, an exact front shot, and as big as possible.

1. Import it into any cad program or coreldraw.

2. trace all the lines and outlines you need (always draw the 12th fret and nut as reference points).

3. measure the distance from nut to 12th fret in the drawing (because of different positioned bridge saddles and compensations I'd rather not measure from nut to bridge, not accurate).

4. full scale length is from nut to bridge, from nut to 12th fret is half, so 0.5 times 25.5" (for other scales check the manufacturers website), now calculate the scale factor.

5. rescale the drawing and you can print (or plot) it in 1:1 scale

For people who have trouble with maths:

Scale factor calculation example 1:

I always use metric scale, because 1" is less precise as 25,4mm.

From nut to 12th fret in drawing is 543 units --> real scale 0.5 x 647.7(25.4x25.5") = 323.85mm

scale factor -->323.85 / 543 = 0,59640883977900552486187845303867

The scale factor is less then 1, because the drawing distance was bigger then the real distance, so the calculation is good

Example 2:

From nut to 12th fret in drawing is 83 units --> real scale = 323.85mm

scale factor --> 323.85 / 83 = 3,9018072289156626506024096385542

So the drawing should be almost 4 times bigger to get it 1:1 scale

When I can't find a real plan or real guitar I can get the measurements from, I always use this method... but for outlines and for positioning pickups and knobs only. As for neck pockets and pickup routes I use the real measurements I find on the internet, so I draw these after I scaled the drawing to 1:1 size.

Also this method is only cool for building from scratch, not for accurate replacement parts!!! For instance, if you have a les paul drawing with an exact front shot, you can't see the neck angle, but it's there. The nut is positioned a bit backwards, so measuring from nut to 12th fret won't be very accurate, but good enough for it to look like a les paul, not prs single cut

For pickups size you can check the seymour duncan site. For bridges and other parts you can use the warmoth website, and there are others too, just use google. You can also use parts from drawings in the download section. If you need a humbucker route or a tremolo spring back route or control cavity etc, just copy it from the drawings and paste it into your own drawing.

GOOD LUCK!!!

I wonder if you could use virtual guars with your method. http://www.nymphusa.com/kisekae/kisekaeE1.asp

Thanks for your help J-C,but now its too big, almost there, but too big. Guess I'll have to play with it a while.

Small problem,mabey.

When I converten these, the programs worked great, but when I go to print them, they are about 1/2 size. Did I do something wrong? I am using TURBOCAD. I have used it befor with no problems, but now...

Thanks guys

This link has the CAd files for the RADIUS (Satriani) body.

http://www.speakeasy.org/~sven/site/radius.html

Download TurboCAD from www.guitarbuild.com to view them.

I love this body shape.

Have fun

SguitarM527:

The printout of the RG body did the same thing on my printer. 1/10" from the edge. I used the pencil and ruler method, the cut slowly with scisors.

It turned out real nice.

I am currently working on several headstock logos. Mainly Ibanez, BC Rich, Fender, Chervel etc...

When I am finished, I will post them in a yahoo briefcase where everyone can access them at any time. I will provide username and password to the account. If anyone has a logo they need or would ike me to design them one, feel free to email me personally and we will discuss it. cajunboy2k@yahoo.com

Happy building.

I've heard talk of a swirl paint tutorial being written for some time now. Is anyone really working on it?

I'm not complaining, I think I have a pretty good idea on how its done and what paints are used, but I just want to confirm my info before taking the plunge.

Thanks guys. rock

Im not selling the logo, its free.

I have created an Ibanez logo if anyone wants it. It is black, but it can be any color if you have a graphics program. If you would like one, email me. player

The PVC idea works great for me. Besides where I get mine, it is measured from the inside diameter, not the outside. And it is also very cheap. $2.00 American for a 3 foot section.

The easiest way for me to make a radiused sanding block was to purchase a short piece of 12" PVC pipe (or what ever size you need). Then I cut it lengthwise and shortened it. glue it to a piece of wood, and tak sandpaper to the underside. WA- rock LA radiused sanding block.