DJMhr

Before you take it all apart, try switching the wires on the input jack.

I picked up a Gretsch baritone real cheap off Ebay a couple months ago, mainly on account of a broken single-action truss rod.

The previous owner overtightened it. As a result the fretboard surface & neck had way too much relief.

I replaced the broken rod with a double-action "Hot Rod" which enabled the neck to straighten out very nicely.

Being able to adjust the rod both directions proved to be a Godsend in this case.

For what it's worth, the tutorial here on "Fretboard Removal" has proven extremely helpful. I didn't know anything about removing and replacing fretboards 6 months ago, and since then, I've successfully removed and replaced the fretboards on two guitars. However, both were bolt-on necks.

My question for those more seasoned here - wouldn't many of the same steps in that tutorial apply for removing the fretboard on a set neck?

I'm guessing, if lacking the space to insert a razor and knife beneath the fretboard at the body end, might one might start at the nut?

In any event, much gratitude to Kevan for writing that tutorial.

Using (perhaps even making) a curved metal jackplate like Gibson suggested to help cover the gap, and recessing the area around the hole as others have suggested.

Perhaps you can carve a set of mini-humbucker rings out of wood, and paint them white.

I would imagine paint would adhere better to wood than plastic.

I recently made a set of mini-hb rings from ebony. The trickiest part was cutting out the center of the rings

with a coping saw.

DJ

Hi -

Have you considered the possibility of shorter bridge studs or inserts?

I just installed a Schaller roller bridge on a guitar body 1" thick,

within a recessed area for the bridge routed 1/8 deep.

I was surprised at how short the studs were for this bridge - about a 1/2".

DJ