mak

I was sorting thru and organizing all my guitar related files and came across this set of instructions I made last year for someone. This is my basic method for fret dressing. I'm sure others do things differently with different tools. Feel free to add anything that might be crucial. As I don't have much experience dealing with bound necks there might be something to add in that area. I hope this recipe might help those who are not sure of how to go about refurbishing their frets.

Fret dressing

Tools

leveller - 6" to 8" long stone (course/fine) or ft. long fine bastard file

black marker

triangular file (2 edges ground smooth)

masking tape

1 ft. long steel ruler

3" long steel straightedge

400 grit sandpaper

600 grit sandpaper

1200 grit sandpaper

000 steel wool

hobbiest's hammer

Optional tools but not really crucial

sanding block with matching fretboard radius

diamond fret crowning file from StewMac

stainless steel fret protectors

fret press

Assessment

This can only work on guitars that have fully functional necks. If there are any problems like severe backbow, twisting or truss rod doesn't work etc. then you have to address that problem before fret work.

Neck

Your best results come from working on a straight, flat surface so you have to first see where the neck is at and then adjust the truss rod accordingly to lower the relief to as near flat as possible. I like to leave the strings on the guitar at this stage because its easier to decide WHICH WAY and HOW FAR to turn your trussrod to achieve no relief. Remember the string tension adds a bit to the relief so you don't have to turn as far as you think. Remove the strings and double check for overall flatness with the steel ruler. I like to work with a lamp for backlight, then you can see light shining thru at the gaps. See if the ruler rocks on any high spots, could be on individual frets also could rock across a group of frets = BACKBOW.

If your neck is backbowed then you have to work out some way to get it flat. Most guitars are built with a single truss rod only allowing for forward curvature, loosening entirely just renders the neck straight (if adjustment nut is at the body end of the guitar), at least thats how they are supposed to work. I like the bi-flex truss rod (double rod) which allows for correction both ways. If its a slight backbow you might be able to work around it and string/trussrod tension can set it right. A little tightening on the truss rod might fix it. If you have a severe backbow, and trussrod adjustment isn't enough, you have to fix that before continuing. Clamp it, heat it, steam it whatever it takes.

Frets

Visual inspection (of course) for:

dimples/indents caused by habitual tight vibrato motion at the same place.

Flattened areas from repeated bending in all those "sweet spots".

Overall lack of height from previous fret dressings.

This is where you have to decide whether or not a few frets need replacing, a total fretjob is needed or just a dressing will do. I'll just continue with the dressing assuming there is still some "meat" left on the frets and they are all firmly seated. Just in case, check around with the 3" straight edge, spanning 3 frets at a time, for high or low ones. You might find one that needs to be tapped back down. Or you might find a few that need to be replaced. I can't really say in numbers how low they have to be for replacement. Thats up to you, just compare with the others.

Dressing

1. Double tape the wood fretboard between the frets.

2. Ink the top of each fret with the marker and support the neck firmly and evenly. I like a folded up beach towel.

3. Run your stone, file or sanding block (w/ 400 sandpaper) along the fretboard while curving side to side to follow the radius. Even pressure, steady speed, even contact throughout. Keep an eye on how the marker ink wears away. Ink still showing = low spot. You have to continue until that ink is gone working EVENLY over the whole neck. Don't just concentrate on that low area. This is where the results of your initial assessment are important. If you feel you are taking too much off the other frets then that low one should have been pulled and replaced first and then filed down to match up with the others.

4. Re-ink the tops of the frets. They should each have a small flat, coarse landing on the top.

5. Now you want to recurve (crown) the top of each fret. I've been told the diamond file will crown in only a few swipes, but it IS an expensive tool. I use the triangular file with good results. Use the surface of the file with the 2 dulled edges straddling the fret. This way you can touch the tape on the fretboard without tearing it and eventually messing up the rosewood or whatever is underneath. Run the file flat along the fret while "curving" it EVENLY up each side, end to end and crosswise. Eventually you will see the ink disappearing. Stop when you see just the faintest line of ink running down the exact center of each fret.

6. Rip a small piece of 400 grit paper, fold it and smooth the top of each fret by sanding end to end. This should take out the heavy scratch marks left behind by the levelling and crowning process.

7. Repeat with finer grits.

8. Polish with steel wool.

9. Tear off the tape, restring and setup.

10. Play that gitbox!

End note: If you have a crappy little noname guitar laying around its good to get a little practice in on that before messing with your $2000 LP.

great stuff tnx :-)