lowbrow
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Posts posted by lowbrow
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I decided to forge ahead and see what sealer coats would produce. After two, the problems seems to have been addressed. I think with all the sealer and lacquer coats it's going to get, I should be OK. If not, I'll just have to re-do that area or the whole neck. Now that I know it's the urea reacting, I think I might be OK. Thanks all! If you have any curiosity, I've been doing a blog about my guitar rebuilding adventures...
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Do you think I would be better off removing it and using something else?
Yeah, liquid hide glue has urea in it which causes it to keep reabsorbing moisture, either from the air or in your case from your hands. Though I've never used it on a binding, I think hide glue is probably the right choice, just not the liquid stuff. I've used hot hide glue to make 'plastic wood' as you've done, and it works great. In fact, over the last few years I've started using hot hide for just about everything, it's that good. Just takes some practice mixing and setting up your assembly to be fast enough, but the results are much better than any other glue. -
I'm refurbishing a "1963ish" Gretsch Astro Jet. I got it as a stripped carcass and one of the issues it has was rotting binding. The treble side of the neck binding had fallen off long ago and a previous owner had continued to play the guitar apparently. The wood ledge for the binding was worn away in a area around the 12th fret.
I've re-installed new binding and I mixed up some liguid hide glue and mahogany dust as a filler for the missing wood. That all has gone pretty well and I'm at the grain filling stage. My problem is I've noticed the hide glue putty area gets sticky if my hand is in contact with it for any length of time. I assume I'm re-activating the hide glue with my body heat and moisture.
Will this be a problem after I get various coats of sealer and lacquer over the area, do you think? Would I be better off to stop where I am, remove the hide glue/putty and re-do this fix with something else or some other method? I don't have much in the way of power tools, so replacing it with wood would be quite difficult...I was thinking maybe mix epoxy and mahogany saw dust instead, but I'm not sure now...
Thanks in advance for any insight or help you may be able to provide..
Here are a couple pictures of the area in question:
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I'm probably gonna have my fingerboard slotted by lmi, but incase its not deep enough, it there a saw I could buy for cheap that has a kerf of .023 (even .025 would work)
I like to use Zona saws. Cheap, sharp and a variety of kerfs available. Available direct or at better hobby shops. Select the razor saw link on the left:
Colored Side Dots/bindings?
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
It's probably a bit late, but I wanted to share this anyway...future reference:
http://www.doeringerguitars.com/servlet/th...Rods-RED/Detail