Jester700

No Jake?

I think you're right, but it's moot. A short length of shielded wire picks up very little noise. A pickup coil is a freakin' noise ANTENNA. ;-)

Also:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/suppo...d_a_8.shtml#416Duncan Q&A #416

Plus, I experimented with a JB and that's what I found. To be honest, though, the JB was in bridge position and the slug side was toward the neck. That gives a slight advantage to that side. Plus, this effect is lessened (maybe removed?) if you cut the screws off at the bottom of the pickup; less energy is directed in t direction then.

Personally, I'd like a pup with just slugs; they're more "magnetically conductive" than screws and I never adjust the screws anyway.

Here we go again.....

WHO TOLD YOU THAT???

Seymour Duncan:

350. Why are the Gibson slugs non adjustable?

It was the basic design given to the pickup when first designed by Seth Lover in the mid 50s. Originally the pickup was designed without adjustable pole pieces and a row of six pole pieces were added as a “selling point” to enhance sales since the P-90 had adjustable pole pieces.

Traditionally under a cover, the concealed studs are used to conduct the magnetic field to the strings. Gibson traditionally used one row of adjustment screws to give minimal balance to the strings. The stud side has a stronger magnetic field than the adjustable side. With adjustable pole pieces a small amount of magnetic field is directed out the bottom of the pickup.

From

Duncan's Q&A

Hi.

I have a set of seymour duncan humbuckers .Why does one half of each humbucker have screws as pole pieces and the other side are just plain plain poles on each PU.

I presume the screws are adjustable pole pieces but why on one coil only?

Any explanations?

Thanks

Greg

Because that's sufficient to even out the strings; there's no NEED for both rows to be screws. Still, some pickups do. Personally, I'd like a pup with just slugs; they're more "magnetically conductive" than screws and I never adjust the screws anyway.

$256!! Not bad!

Yeah, I'm pleased.

You CAN get options on necks only, but they aren't "half off". I asked Sean at Carvin. So, I paid $455 for the kit and am getting $256 back. So I got my options for $70. The neck and tuners with these options would have been $350.

I love those stainless frets.

I may do this again...

Therefore, ( ) ...I will have to add to my list Strunz and Farah, and Young and Rollins, 2 flamenco acoustic duos that are as brimming with feeling and soul and emotion as Albert Collins or Randy Rhoads.

Yeah, now we're talkin. Can I add Tuck Andress to my list?...

Do you have any pics of your neck now? Which options did you get one it?

No pics yet...

I got:

stainless steel frets (played 'em on a Parker and fell in lust)

Sperzels (figured I'd give the sperzel/graphite nut combo a try, and so far I'm not impressed)

Abalone blocks - I'm a SUCKER for abalone blocks!

Those options added $200, so the neck would have been $330. Since they had a "$50 off kits" at the time (not any more), my whole kit was only $450. I knew I'd make at least $150 back, and maybe even as high as $250, if it's exactly what someone wants.

And the new Carvins use a compound radius of 12"-15", which I also liked on the Parker I played. Heck, if I could get a nitefly neck to put on my radius I'd have one.

I think parkey fly guitars are partly made of graphite. It seems to be a type of graphite netting that they use rather than just a slab of graphite.

No, the finish is some kinda plasticky composite, but the guitars are wood.

Sorry for the late posting, but I just realized that auction posts were acceptable here.

It's a Carvin bolt kit but without the neck. I got it specifically to take advantage of a "half off options" deal on the neck options, which is what I REALLY wanted. Since I always planned to eBay the rest of the kit, the other parts were only opened to snap a picture.

My Carvin Bolt kit auction

I always wonder why it's blues guys that play "with soul". Since I don't buy the concept of "soul", I prefer to call it "expression". I just finished watching the Martin Scorcese Blues DVD set, and yes, these cats are all expressive. But I don't believe a scrunched face with a bent note is necessarily any more expressive than a swept arpeggio in the right place, or a hammered triplet, or a whammy trick. It's all about placement.

So I vote for Hendrix and Van Halen. Maybe Randy Rhoads.

None of the inputs are designed for the high impedance pups of a guitar. I'd get a headphone amp of some sort and plug it into a line input (tape, CD, AUX).

Ah. Whoops. Let us know how it goes...

He meant the nut. Never saw this problem. Longer screws, maybe?

I would ask about the wood if weight is a concern. The popular swamp ash is pretty light, but northern ash is heavy - kinda like maple. I'd like a body of swamp ash, but the heavy stuff doesn't interest me.

Depends on the pickup. Some (like Dimarzio's Steve's Special) are very different. But even normal ones often have a screw side and a slug side. The slug side will have greater output if the screws are adjusted flat against the bobbin. So I orient the pup so THAT side is where I want it - usually toward the neck for greater warmth & output.

Remember that a strat pup is wound to about 6k with 42AWG wire. That's more output than half an 8k PAF bucker will give you. To split well you need a hotter bucker - super distortion types usually work OK, but they will still sound weak in comparison to the whole pickup in series. There are buckers designed to split well; I have a couple and they are better at this than normal buckers.

There is no typical, but:

Early Fenders were 7.25"

Later Fenders were 9.5" or 10"

Most Gibsons are 12"

Most Hamers are 14", IIRC

Don't really know about all the Ibanez and such, but I think they are at least 12" -15".

What kind of guitar do you play/like the feel of the neck?

Sorry to not have the metric equivalents...

Ibanez varies from 10" (for JS models) to 17" (RGs and such).

Oh, and this IS the lightweight swamp ash, right? That's the usual variety, but there HAVE been guitars of the northern variety, and it's HEAVY - like maple.

Any plans on offering a JS style?

Yes 15" guitars are common and 12" to 16" compound too, but 16" throughout? It could very well be, I just wanted to know if you are sure because it is no common radius....

Well, I can't find any data to back me up, and I can't remember where I got it. All I find now (and there isn't much) says 12-16" compound on Jacksons. But Carvins were definitely 15" and many Ibanezes are actually 430mm - that's 17"!

But the point is that on a Jackson you'd use a 16" radius; that's the "ending" rdius closest to the bridge.

...ACTUALLY, since the radius is 12" at the nut and 16" 3/4 of the way toward the bridge, you'd ideally use a 17 1/3" radius at the bridge, but that's splitting hairs...

Hi

New member today

Can anyone help me with neck radii? Just bought a Roland guitar synth GR 20 with GK 3 divided pickup. This has to be set to the rad of the neck. In their literature they state curves of either "250R" or "300R"

I plan to fit this to my Tokai Strat but have no idea where to start with the radius. I have had a trawl on various sites but all measurements I can find appear to be in inches. Anyone know what the 250 or 300 relate to?

Cheers

Phil

Probably mm, Roland being a Japanese company. 250 would be just under 10" (presumably for Fender 7.5" and 9" radii), and 300 would be just under 12" for Gibson's 12".

I wonder why they didn't feel the need to support all those Japanese 15" and 16" shred machines?

Thanks but are you really sure? I never heard about any 6-string guitar with a 16" radius. That flat radii are common only for 7-string guitars....

Lots of guitars are at least close to this. Carvins are now compound 12"-15", but used to be 15", many Ibanezes are 15". Many Jacksons do have a compound board from 12"-16", but for Floyd purposes 16" works fine.

Only old timers have round fretboards..

IIRC, most were 16". But that's no guarantee; some may have been different.

MusicYo is the new Korean models, though the USA ones are supposed to be pretty good, and the Strikers seem like good bang for buck.

eBay is the best place for old ones. Figure on $400ish for an American Pacer, and $200-ish for a Japanese made Focus.

I've sworn off DiMarzio because of their aggressive legal activities.  I can get what I need from Duncan and others without supporting a pushy bully...

Well that's a Flamebait comment if I've ever seen one.

Aggressive legal tactics? Since when is protecting your Patents and Trademarks a crime?

Didn't mean it to be. It was the patenting/trademarking of double cream buckers that got me; IMO that was way over the line. That was not DiMarzios design or idea; if I understand correctly, they just saw a profitable opportunity and used legal means to stifle competition. Maybe they gained lots of sales that way, but they lost mine.