Jester700

I don't think he means a white V1 on the top of the pup. Those are NOT DiMarzios, though IMO they're pretty good stock imports. He means a stamp underneath.

Neck= more bass & output. Bridge=more treble, bite, harmonics.

On a tiny guitar, the short strings need all the bass & output help they can get. But it's up to you...

I've sworn off DiMarzio because of their aggressive legal activities. I can get what I need from Duncan and others without supporting a pushy bully...

I had 2 Kramer Pacer Imperials - one 1983 made in Jersey, and one made by ESP Japan in 1987. I preferred the American one - every bit the quality of the better Charvels, Fenders, etc. of the time. The ESP one wasn't bad, it just didn't "fit" as well.

Yeah, the new ones are different critters. But the Strikers look like good value for dollar, if you're after a cheapo.

Again, These go all the time on eBay. Here are a few recent ones:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3754044571&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3755964106&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3754261751&rd=1

It's a little high. They were $600-ish new, and you can get the true floyd ones for $400 on eBay fairly often.

Paintball gun. Splatter to taste... ;-)

Hi!

Here Is a little newbie question:

How do I change strings on a guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge?

Thanks.

-Daniel

http://www.jemsite.com/tech/t_rstrng.htm

hey i have a ibanez 540r ltd, but i want to get picks ups tha on the js2000 to put on my guitar. but i dont want spend 300 buks to buy the pickups so i was wandering if the pickups that came with my gutiar worth anything maybe i can get a discount or somthing.. they are IBZUSAF1 IBZUSAC3 &IBZUSAF1 thanks

plz tell me

I'll give ya $25 for 'em... ;-)

These were made by DiMarzio (OK, there's some contention on that, but I stand by my statement) and are good pickups - the best non-branded pickups ever put in an Ibanez, IMO. The F1 is "sorta kinda" like a DiMarzio Breed, and the C3 is kinda like an HS3. Make SURE you really need to replace them and aren't just "getting rid of the stock pups" without listening to them. You may prefer something else, but these are NOT second rate pups.

I really will buy 'em off you if you decide to ditch them, and I'll even pay $50... (you could probably still do better on eBay).

I forgot to mention that part. If you're reversing polarity so that it combines with other pickups, you will need to do both.

I dunno if Fender still winds their wire right around the magnets; this is why I don't advocate just pulling the mags & flipping them around. But on pickups like DiMarzios, where the magnets & coil don't touch, you can just do that.

Hi, Can someone tell me if there is a way (switch or other) to change the polarity of a single coil, north south, south north????

thanks

Remagnetize it with a much stronger magnet, like a good sized neodymium.

They're a semi-horseshoe, and the ends are different poles.

Yes they are. So would I just use one end of the magnet to polarize the poles?

(Yes... I'm a newbie, so I ask questions that may seem to have obvious answers.)

D~s

Yes. You could charge one pole first and then the other on the other side of the NDym, but you shouldn't have to - it should fully charge the whole magnet. I let mine there for a minute, but I'm inexperienced - it may only take 10 seconds...

There are no stupid questions, only stupid people. Those are usually the ones who don't ask questions... ;-)

I'm also experimenting with very small ones that fit beneath the alnico slugs in a single coil. They do seem to increase output, and don't affect the strings badly - but that's maybe because I'm using them specifically in a pickup I crank way down into the body (to get it out of my picking path).

Those are Neodymium, and yes you can use them to charge poles. BUT the shape of one from a hard drive may not be the easiest to use. They're a semi-horseshoe, and the ends are different poles. A straight 2 1/2" or 3" bar magnet would be easier to deal with, IMO. You can then put alnico slugs in the pickup and charge them right in the pup. Alnico is funny - this size NDym will instantly change the polarity of the slug. I was trying to find the polarity of a slug and BOTH sides were attracted to the same NDym pole. Then I figured out that the alnico was being re-charged as it approached the NDym...

I have 2 - both are stuck to a filing cabinet with a different pole facing outward. This way I can quickly charge either polarity. Careful - 2 mags of this size REALLY want to "come together" and can pinch, break, shatter. And also wreck credit cards. I keep a piece of Tyvek on them so I can always safely pull stuff off that might get stuck.

It's nice to know that even though someone hasn't even touched the product and has only seen pics of it online and descriptions from others, that they believe in it enough to post about it on forums, putting their rep on the line. That means a lot to me.

Thanks man!

Well, this is just a great idea. Simple, to the point, and SHOULD'VE been invented back in the 80's! It's one of those things like the push-button locking ball bearing on a ratchet wrench - everyone says "MAN! I shoulda thunk of that!" Hopefully you get rich like that guy...

I'll agree with Jester on this one, except I believe all the "IBZ" pickups were/are made by Ibanez in either Japan or Korea. They're not 'real' DiMarzio's, but they do have their own sound (not bad, but not great).

...snip...

P.S.- Jester- thanks for the post on the Carvin board. I just found it (8 mos. later. LOL)

From DiMarzio's site:

The DiMarzio®/IBZ pickups in the Ibanez RG2120 and RG2570EX are specifically designed and manufactured by DiMarzio® for Ibanez, and they are not available separately. Like all DiMarzio® pickups, they are made in our New York factory.

They used to have a small chart that also included the F and C series, as well as some others they made for Fender & Yamaha, but I can't find that one now...

Hey Kevan, if I prop you in enough guitar forums, kin I git a tremol-no? ;-)

yeah it came with ibz f1 humbuckers and cs single.

According to DiMarzio (who made the F1), the F1 is most similar to the Breed. This doesn't mean they're exact, of course, but if you're looking for a change of sound, the Breed might not be the best place to start since they're so similar. Personally, I LIKE the F1 a lot in my basswood/floyded radii (I have 3, and 2 of them have the F1).

The single is an C2, a rebranded HS2.

Google Neodymium magnets, and get one of proper size. There was this company in The Netherlands that did this, and I guess it worked out good. I would like to see someone do that.

NDyms of normal magnet size won't work well. Their field is too strong. I just got some small ones that are the width of normal alnico rod polepieces, but only 1/16" thick. I put them underneath the alnicos. Seems to up the output, which works well for my middle S.C. pup, which I lowered a LOT to get it out of the way. But I doubt I'd use this on a normally adjusted pup, and never with full magnet sizes. Talk about stratitis!

what kind of pickups are good with floyd? thinking about getting dimarzio breeds for my ibanez radius

Didn't it come with an IBZUSA F1? If so, that's already pretty close to a Breed...

And if you do double stop bends, you need to also bend the "stationary" string a little. It's a feel thing - you'll get it. Or you can get Kevan's Tremol-no... wait, no you can't - it's not out yet. ;-) ...dig....dig...

And Carvin doesn't use quartersawn stock. Neither does Warmoth normally, but you can request it. Carvin DOES use carbon fiber rods (they USED to use steel!) and they seem to do the trick. Some people say this makes the neck less "lively" or resonant. But I like 'em.

Couldn't this also be done the same as any 3-tone burst, just using black as both the 1st and last colors? Or does that darken the middle color?

I must admit, my Warmoth neck is well built and comfortable, but the fretwork isn't perfect. Having nothing to compare to in terms of other necks alone, I really can't give a comparison, but my problem is that I can't get consistent action, and will have nice action along the whole board and one or two frets that don't sound at all, or buzz extremely, or play the same note as the next fret up; it's kind of annoying. If I adjust the action I can get rid of the problem, but then the action is kinda high for my tastes.

This was the case on ALL 5 of my Pacificas. Now, these were from the early 90's, but on a couple there was no appreciable wear, so the issue was the frets themselves. I've had the worst ones leveled & crowned, but even one of THOSE had a low fret that the repair guy missed (low enough to not be touched by the level), so it still buzzes on that fret. I've heard from a couple people that they need to have some thin glue shot under the frets to tack them down.

My Carvins have no such issues - they are ROCK solid. And I'm lucky enough that their design & options fit my idea of "the perfect neck". In fact, I just got a bolt on neck and figured I'd have to sand it down slightly (I had to do this to my last one), but their newest profile is perfect for me.

But they have *far* fewer choices available, so if you don't like their basic flavor, you need to go elsewhere.

Stew Mac has bolts & ferrules, but I dunno if those are the right length...

I have 4 Pacificas with Warmoth necks (I HAD 5). And 3 Carvin necks.

Both are good builders. Warmoth offers more options, including several profiles. The frets sometimes come unseated after a while, though. Carvins are a bit more stable, IMO - My main axe sports a Carvin neck.

Don't breathe the dust. Very bad...