Kenny

i taper my fretboards to thier absolute final size on my table saw (most accurate way ive found so far) then after that i glue them onto the still oversized neck blank using a support caul of the matching radius (concave naturally ) then after i get my neck close to the FB with a bandsaw, and use a router witha bearing guide to get them flush.

hope this helps

i didnt feel like investing my time into making one, so i opted to but one from stewmac

works perfectly. no complaints, keeps a constant radius

reminds me of when i worshipped the salvia god

well, where the saw is there used to be a washer/dryer...20? years ago anyways, i was planning on hiring an electrician. we also have a heater in the garage, but at this point im unable to find a licenced electrician :-\

i got the shop all clean an organized too. haha anywho, thanks for all the advice guys, im gonna see if i have a 220v circut (becuase i think we had it capped of but im not entirely sure)

thats what i was thinking 'cause i remember the P=iv from highschool where p is power i is current and v is voltage

well, i got my bandsaw today. the fedex guy helped me move it off the truck, i was stuck moving it from my driveway to shop though. that was an experience

so i found out that they do not include the male part of the outlet, aswell as it is wired to 220v that raises a problem since our house is wired to 110v

so heres my question. the grizzly manual says rewire the motor to 110v, but im not sure if there would be a drop in power, or just in increase in current.

the other option (yet about 100$ more expensive is having a converter box installed for 220v)

any opinions?

captains log star date 4231

im still emmersed in university math so i know what coplanar is , but i just wasnt sure what it was refering too. when my woodworking mentour passed away i inherited all his equipment aswell as books, so i will start reading one of the bandsaw books that he left me.

maybe ill post pics and whatnot. i think im going to make a resaw jig though....

yea, i ran across a lot of terms that in context of seetting up a bandsaw i was completly ignorant about

such as for example: Coplanar

also i dont know if this fence can adjust for drift (becuase i know some cant, and it didnt specify...)

well, as im sure a few of you may recall, ive been in the markey for a bandsaw. originally i was looking at the laguna 14" but later opted for a much less expensive saw (not saying that its lesser quality, you could get a car for less than that saw....)

anways i was tired of trying to lie to myself and say when i had more money, so in a moment of clairity i went on ebay and snagged a new grizzly G0513X2 17" (with the cast iron wheels)

although it only has 12" resaw for 850, i just could not resist (its 50$ off grizzly's site, which almost pays for the shipping)

i also bought a 3/8 pos? Timberwolf blade and a 1" pos timberwolf blade i think it was 6tpi

anyways just thought id let your guys know

and thank you very much for all your help in helping on the latest addition to my family of tools :-p

Kenny

awsome, good choice on PU'ps the sperzel locking tuners are a bit more difficult to install if you havent already

thanks for all the kind words!

today i leveled and recrowed the frets

to be honest i was very worried becuase for those of you who were following this build i had to remove the fretboard due to a large lump starting at the 5th fret, and it was a constant problem, i tried correctrive clamping with heat and much else

in the end i fixed it enough (without having to adjust the rod) that i could level the remaining upbow out, now its just darn near perfect (still some touchup work to do)

when i was leveling i scraped the body a little with sandpaper so i gotta sand it out and rebuff :-p

and jmentris - i already ordered SM's all black graphtech ones they match the graphtech nut and saddles :-p

regarding the pickup/PU covers

i also loved ERIK's idea for bass style covers, so i will be graciously borrowing that aswell. the only differnce is im doing ebony covers with Seymore duncan distorions in there :-p

hopefully after work tomorrow i can fix the bridge (i shred so i love really low action) i calculated it out and i need to sand the base of the bridge about .04" when i made the bridge i didnt do any calculations and i just went off the standard thickness for baseplates but i have to adjust for everything else now just little things and itll be done

as for my next project, im debating what she'll be called but dont tell, i already finished the design process and am just watiting to get my mini shop cleared out

ill post more pictures soon!

regarding the GOTM for september, do you think i could enter it wihtout pickup covers?

haha i cant cut off the ends because i need to take the stings off :-p

thanks for all the kind words! it really means alot to me guys

and dave...send me your bodies :-p

but seriously id carve them

haha

anyways on a differnt note

ERIK inspired me to do a bridge like that on his V8 build, his was much better, but i put my spin on the one that i build

also, i want to enter this into the GOTM for september becuase i turn 18 in september and winning would be an awsome present, but i dont have the PU covers yet

any constructive crit?? im also getting some string retainers cause i think thatll help out, the high E has slipped out of its slot twice and thats not acceptable

so heres the deal

i finished the finishing, and strung her up! wow, im surprised at how close i cam with the FB, but i still gotta do some fretwork, i also misjudged the bridge height so i gotta make it closer to the body, no big deal tho, just a little sanding

here are pics

(note: the mahagony looks plain, trust me its not, thats just the lighting angle, you know how oil based finishes glisten in the sun, i left the neck at a satin gloss. it looks llike the top is scratched on the first pic, thats just an illusion, keep looking down )

i hope you guys like it

Kenny

well, its not the prettiest thing ive ever seen, but you made it out to be much worse in the first photo!

i honestly think that a little filler and some sanding could take care of your worries, but i wouldnt be able to promise anything stability wise, if possible i like no imperfections in my neck wood,

just my thoughts

Kenny

haha, yea, if you ever need any help with anything else, shop or whatnot, just ask!

the three dots is cool, differnt too

maybe you could play it to your advantage as a "custom feature" thats what i did when i made the mistake of trying to press the 17-24 frets on a neck thru. i filled the slots and said. partial fretless..AN INOVATION!

nobody bought it :-p but yours is more sellable.

yea, it messes with the string height, but thats why you make a new nut and saddle aswell (I LOVE working harder than I need to apperantly, hahah)

really, ive done the pinesol route too, that works great aswell. but the best thing ive found is the Gibson fingerboard cleaner.

well it sounds like you dont have much experience so with that assumption let me say this:

my first guitar (i had no specilized tools say for fretting or anything like that) cost me 2-3x more than what i would have cost to by the guitar of my dreams.

not only does building a guitar take an investment of money, but it also takes 100's of hours and your first job is always less than ok also. (mistakes are the best teachers!)

but if you wanted to continue building guitar i would highly recommend it!

hahaha i was wondering CA? wth is thiss? anyways superglue yea

so when i fret, i just bevel the slots slightly tape off, apply a little CA (1 or 2 drops at each end and 1 or 2 in the middle so it has some room to spread out and i dont get mad seepage) and ive never had any problems

i wouldnt trust the wood alone to hold the frets in...

Kenny

well, what type of fretboard is it? a maple fretboard with a poly (depending on when it was made) or nitro finish over it, a rosewood, ebony?

i aquired a 33 year old classical guitar that had been played so much the fingerboard had some massive grouves and the pore's were filled in by dead skin and sweat (an ugly greybrown)

so what i did was when i broke the headstock off the guitar is i took off the fretboard (great tutorial on projectguitar.com) removed the frets and just sanded my worries away. from there i treated it like i was making a new board. i deepend the slots to the watned depth after i had gotten the board flat (it was a classical you would want to get the previous radius ) i refretted and reattatched. simple as that (the board is like new)

but thats the REAL hard way of doing it

heres the way you probly want to do it

go pick up gibsons cleaning kit the Fretboard cleaner on there is amazing. that and a little elbow grease and a paper towel should do the job

awsome, i love the way the woods contrast eachother, it works very nicely together

as far as filling goes ive awlways been a fan of just epoxy (if your doing a laquer or poly finish that is)

if your doing an oil finish i would check out the differnt type of wood puddies, in my experiance if you can match the colors they are next to invisible after the oil and wax.

Kenny

here is Kenny Kayes list of finishes based on ease and cost effectivness

1. any oil and wax finish. this entails applying oil with an old cotton rag (old so no fibers get stuck in the oil, it gets sticky) and then a few coats later applying the wax, very simple and IMPOSSIBLE to mess up

2. Polyurethane - this ones pretty simple too you dont need to spray it which makes it cost effective aswell as easier to apply (for someone without the equipment) all this really takes is some foam brushes from any hardwarestore (also called poly brushes) then application, then buffing as usual. Heres a great link for info on how to apply and buff poly finishes to high gloss (granted you use high gloss poly - they usually come in 3 flavors [or atleast minwaxes do] high gloss, semi gloss, satin)(fenders are finished in poly)

3. non nitro laquer - takes more investment in tools, is a little more durable, less plasticy than poly tho. needs to be sprayed, buffing procedure is the same.

4. Nitrocellulose laquer - ive never worked with it but i i know its a hassle to work with and the cure time is rediculous

hope this helps a little

hahah, that wouldnt work, you have to do ALL THE FRETWORK (blindfolded!) ha just kidding

but really, i dont live under a bridge, ill give you a hint. its across from downtown, and you have to take a bridge to get on the island, and then that island leads to Imperial beach

yea, definitally. at some point all us sandiegans should collaborate on 1 super guitar haha

EDIT: maybe you can tell where i live by looking at my avatar

Kenny