Kenny

bring your wood inside and dedicate a closet

thanks avenger that actually was very helpful

heres another sort of related question, for a fingerboard, would you be able to apply the shellac to a fingerboard after fretting and just use the same technique as removing lacquer from a maple board? reason i ask is because i want to keep up the wenge/mahogany two tone pattern i have on a few of my necks (plus im broke but i have wenge laying around, not ebony, or any other wood that would really even be suitable for fingerboards)

Kenny

EDIT:

i was doing some browsing and i know someone was wondering about doing an Oil finish over filled grain

i found this guitar

http://home.mindspring.com/imagelib/sitebu...;target=tlx_new

on the site where its located http://home.mindspring.com/~adhamilton/id15.html

he describes it as amber shellac used to fill the grain, then a tungoil finish over

hope that may be helpful

I absolutly love that neck, it looks like you want to touch it! good job!

cant wait to see more progress

alright well im really glad this thread is going; ive tried sealing pores with two things

1: out of desperation i got that natural wood filler from hardware store. worked very well to fill the grain, but it also stained the surrounding wood a strange color; not ideal

2: epoxy - this was terrible, when i finished sanding back my gunky mess i had sanded past the pores DOH; plus i ruined a pair of jeans...haha

i know this has always been asked, but if someone could repeat it for me, what nationwide supply store would carry Tru-Oil? (i went to some places but i cant seem to find any hunting sections in any stores anymore :-\)

also, as far as shellac goes, what are some benifits/ drawbacks as apposed to an oil finish, also if your using a clear shellac, does it give you that nice oiled color under the finish, or a satiny, natural color. EDIT: ?

Kenny

that looks great man!

where do you get your pearlessence that thick? ive been looking for inlay material i can use on my 12fret inlay and avoid doing an angled route, i need something that .1" or more

Kenny

dare i?

no epoxy makes a terrible finsih; it doesnt buff to a sheen and it feels very sticky to the touch, i remember another forum member who did an epoxy finish on a guitar and if i remember correctly he said he was refinishing it

no worries dean

i smoke "medicinally" as well too, i dont think many other people on the forum do though (we need to band together!)

anyways welcome to the forum man! and greetings from California!

Peace

Kenny

ive snapped off a headstock before; but it was with a one piece mahogany neck; somewhere around 13 degrees

i can tell you from experience that as long as you have a solid scarf joint there is absolutely no reason to worry.

i accidently sanded through a neck i was making, and to remove the truss rod i had to break apart the neck. i started by clamping it down and proceeded to hit the nut area with a large hammer. 12 hits later it broke....around the 4th fret (i used a scarf that met in the middle of the headstock for that one) take that with a grain of salt though; i use angled headstocks now though i just don't really like the look of flat ones, not many options for 3 on 3 imo

Kenny

what angle does everyone here use? i know ranges value from 10-17degrees; personally i use a 13 degree angle

i was also actually curious if anyone had any notable experiences with certain angles; or if you use the one you use just from sheer tradition

Kenny

i dont use a sanding block (to do most of the raduising) i use a router jig (2 rails and a raduised sled) i did however make a concave and convex one for each raduis so i can make long blocks (longer than the FB) to use as cauls and for final sanding

Kenny

way of the kami

yea, they only sell them in japan :-p the rasps do all the work for you!

well, i think from an artistic standpoint this is a good way to "cover up" the shape of the headstock on the prototype necks

the only thing i would do differently would make the shape a little less "melty" your implying its melted a lot already by the lines on the top of the gook; you don't need to sell it so much on the bottom if that makes any sense

anyways just my opinion; i wish i had the tools to build like you did! anyways, great work, managed to turn a cheesy concept into a rad guitar congrats

Kenny

hahahaha

(i will not elaborate becuase i refuse to hijack this thread)

Doug,

i just wanted to say, im not usually a fan of tackyish guitars but ive been really getting into your stuff latley (with the exception of the paulstanely doubly neck mirror guitar , just not a fan of kiss)

the way all the lines work together..just blows my mind my friend; if all goes well ill be getting a free CNC within the next 5-10months; maybe ill come to you for advice, you seem to know what the hell your doing!

Kenny

EDIT:

a note on the sandblasting you can really control the roughness of your "cut" by the distance you hold the nozzle from the peice, but if your still not getting desired results, try just going out and getting your own grit sand, id imagine you could get the results you want that way, with a lot more control than a blow torch haha

why not try and get a hold of a sand blaster (any local university with a ceramics dept. would have one) it would give you better results IMO

wow! that is a beautiful guitar my friend! guitar of the month? it looks classy, but still has an edge you know? one thing is that there is a lack of contrasting colors, which is totally cool if thats what you were going for, but did you stain the back too?

if your hell bend on using a router

this should really help with your neck angle, but be warned, you need some trig

http://www.mykaguitars.com/tools/neckpocketjig/default.htm

instead of ruining your neck, put the neck angle into the pocket, it makes much more sense!

yea dude, this is really impressive!; i really like the top carve

what finish were you considering doing?

well, it looks like an sg style headstock, but i dont think those are "gibson" necks, since im not aware of any models that have dots on sg's and the crown on it.

les pauls have the diamonds

wow, very nice clean work!

i love how clean that fretboard looks!!!!

, are you doing any type of beveling or carve?

i voted for andy's as promised since i love the way the goldleaf alternates colors!

but now seing that i put him in the lead, maybe i should have voted for myself

i hope i didn't write it earlier

liberon finishing oil with black bison wax.

Don't laugh

Kenny

i will be laughed at

ill give you a hint

it starts with an L

the top is just standard quilted maple, ebay; if you want to know which seller it was PM me but it was sanded down completely smooth 220-1500 so there were no scratches then a secret oil i dare not say for fear at being laughed at :-p then wax rubbed on after 3 coats; rubbed with steel wool in between each coat to remove shiny spots.

Kenny

:-p i have the clearence