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thats why you would put a thick layer of clearcoat over it, so even if the actual paint texture is a little uneave the clear will make it appear as it has a mirror finish. and the clear is like epoxy in a sense, your sand it away until you get it smooth, then just use a fine grade sandpaper and wet sand or a polishing compound and give the clearcoat a mirror like finish. i would say do the stencil route though, how elaborate is the design? at stores now they sell aeresol cans that can spray mostly any type of paint, primer or oil, it uses a refilable hopper, so you could buy primary colors in small quantites, mix your colors up, spray them, then just run some paint thinner between different colors thru it to clean it out, and keep going. youll have a nice smooth finish and sharp lines. but yes, that will take alot longer than hand painting. t

this might seem stupid, but how do you adjust string height and intonation on a system like that? t

was looking at a tune-o-matic, but the only ones i can find in 7 string cost like 120$. so i might fabricate one and use saddles from a TOM, so the cost will be in the 15$ range. also, i was thinking about using an acoustic-type bridge shown here. and instead of bone use a hard wood piece. think that might work? or would it sound weird? thanks for all the help. t

i was thinking of winding my own, if not, an emg bridge. so not many people sell them as individual saddles? ill check that company's website out. t

i dont see the lathe on their site. any way you could post a link? thx! t

not an expert at this but i might can help...... what kind of taper pots did you get? like audio, linear, ect different pots have differnt fade offs and ons (bad terminology). ill try to find a graph. maybe you got one that had a sudden drop off at the beginning? thats an audio taper i think. cant find a graph but a linear taper would look like this: ======= = / = = / = = / = = / = =/ = ======== yes, you can marvel at my graph anytime. t

not a fan of padauk but they are very nice!!! walnut+ebony on those = x 3.3923 btw what kind of lathe do you have? t

true, but theres alot of shapes you cant turn on the lathe oblong or one-off custom shapes are gonna have to be either carved by hand. or a cnc. now dont get me wrong, if your looking at just a simple rod like knob, you could make one in a few min on a lathe!

looking at making a 7 string, neck thru, string thru, baritone. thinking about a piezo system to either eliminate the neck pickup or keep the neck and just have it to give me some acoustic like tones. not much of a 'shredder' so necks not to important to me

i need some links/pics/info on how big they are, what they replace, how much they cost, ect. never seen one in person. i have the basic 'idea' of what one does but havent seen it in person to examine them. any help appreciated!! t

i am in the middle of a knob making project so i can be of help... make a square out of plaster, clay, resin, anything hard but carveable but not grainy so you can get detail. get some rubber type liquid that dries, i think they make it for dipping wrenches in, but you can also get some at an art supply store. coat your hand carved knob with it, make a alot of layers and let them dry in between, so you end up with about a 1/2" thick rubber cast, peel this off your hand carved knob. turn the cast upside down and make a little jig so it holds it flat, get some clear casting resin (found at an art supply store) fill it up, dont let it kick (dry) to much cause it will get hot and limit the amout of life of your rubber cast. hand sand then primer, sand again, then paint, and decorate with lines, grooves, ect. sounds more complicated than it is and when your done youll have custom made knobs that are rock hard and smooth, expect to get about 8-20 knobs out of each rubber mask. t

CookWoods? Really? I've tried three times to order wood from them. Each time, she says that the person I need is in the warehouse and will call back. I tried calling them back twice and got the same. I don't know if it's because I'm not ordering a truck load (they ask each time how much wood I'm looking for) or what? Maybe I should try one more time? strange. its a family owned company "guy and his wife" she probably didnt know to much about techincal stuff so she had to get him to asnwer your questions. same thing happened here. but they called me back in a couple of hours. dunno. how much were you looking at getting? i got about 120$ slab of maple. look at the stuff they are bringing in. http://cookwoods.com/WarehouseSnapshots.htm cha ching. its probabably pretty easy to forget to call someone back who didnt want 2000$ worth of ebony or something. id give them another try, once you finally get ahold of someone they are more than welcome to help. t

wheres a good place to buy the magnets from? and how do the top 'pins' that are visible hook into the bobbins??? making own amp= im just getting on the level of electrionics to possibly wire up my own effects pedals. fingers crossed on that one though. t

ahh. i gotcha. trying to salvage all the pieces from the sewing machine. good idea of all the ones ive seen around here (in the US) are around 10$ USD cheapest running ones at garage sales and thrift stores, quid.

sounds good. im not a fan of redwood tops, of those ive seen at least. i think the boards it's in are around 5" wide minimum and might be up to 8 or 9" ? havent inquired about the width yet.

cool, or you could use a dc motor speed control, and hook it up to a pot, then you could have a hand adjustable speed controller. so your saying they allready have the typewriter thing in place on the 350$ machines? or were you refering to my idea? t

well when the time comes i will definately get some. its dirt cheap too, figuring your using so small of an amout it cant be over 0.50$ worth of material. i dont think the string would move enough to make it produce a lubricant, bit its naturally slippy and i think thats all that matters. your right, cant tell unless you do it! t

thanks!!! just found this pic, they have it at stewmac too. for 325$. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_...kup_Winder.html buying stuff sucks, its so much better when you can build it, or at least attempt to yourself! that thing doesnt look that hard to make at all, a little work with the pulleys maybe. dunno. why are you trying to get a sewing machine? wouldnt that be a little to much torque for this application? have you tried hobby motors on ebay? i know they make little rc car motors but they turn fast. like 10k rpm. kind to high speed for our app. but im sure they have something slower. right now im trying to think if using the whole winder as an automated process, only thing im stuck on is how to make it do a typewriter effect when it gets to the side of the pickup and wind back, then repeat, guess i could pull apart a typewiter and find out and use some of the parts maybe! muahahah! inventing stuff rocks! thx and good luck on yours!!! t

or maybe your right, your saying use different brand/model staggered pickups? interesting. will it give it an enhanced sound and tone or make some messed up stuff? nice idea! t

i was thinking about doing just that. how much work is involved in the winder? is it some kind of special perfect tension winding device or something to just save you the headache and time to hand wind? reason i ask is im on a project making kick, 1. aluminum melting foundry - 90% done 2. cnc hotwire foam cutter 3. cnc metal lathe 4. cnc milling machine 5. guitar so i think if i get those out of the way making a pickup winding machine isnt going to be to hard has anyone made some yet from his instructions? how much cost is involved? thx for the help! t

hey guys thanks for the replies! reason i dont want single coils is that ill be going for some really low distored sound, (not a typical metal sound, but really low abstract style stuff). so i could probably just get by with one bridge humbucker. single coils kinda seem not the right match, but thanks very much for the idea! im sure ill use it down the road

ive got access to some 200+ year old aged redwood. super tight grain pattern ive never seen in redwood and very dark, almost black in some streaks. think this is strong enough to hold up on a neck by itself? or would it be better to use the redwood as a laminate, or a stronger laminate around the redwood? thx for any help! t

ive mostly seen hard materials, such as hard plastics and bone for the nut of the neck. i know a little about metal maching and sometimes they use exotic materials instead of metals for high stress and movement areas. ex.- on a slide that goes back and forth on a table, instead of making it out of aluminum and getting 3months life out of it they use products like Acetal which are teflon injected nylon based materials. they machine just like metal, but instead of chips they produce slivers, so the have a plastic like property to them, have a greater weight than that of aluminum and are not flexible like nylon is. cool thing about them is that the more you rub them or the hotter they get the more lubricant they put out, not like drip out but have an oily feel to them. think this could be used as an application for a nut or what? lets hear your suggestions! t

they say "nearly as dense as cocobola". probably near the same. pretty nice looking stuff too!

http://cookwoods.com/5_Unique_Rare.htm 3/4 the way down. i think they have a minimum though, i forget what it is, maybe 50$? awesome people to deal with, bought alot of mape from them once.