asm

i was thinking about that

but what if you just calculated half the width of the neck at the nut, and used that for the width of the bit, then carved down to the heel, you would be left with a strip that got wider as the cut went farther to the heel where it didnt reach to the center. dig?

so then you just have to hand plane or sand down a little raised strip in the center to meet either side, which would be easier than hand radiusing the whole neck.

wouldnt that work?

also, if your ever going to be doing any more soldering in the future or if you just like it. SERIOUSLY consider investing in a medium-high grade one. the difference is alot. bascially the ones at radio shack and stuff SUCK compared to a nice Weller.

a good one will run around 60-100$ so not crazy expensive

i was just thinking why *wouldn't* someone just buy a large roundover bit to do the back of the neck.

unless you do a compound radius you get a perfect cut all the way down the board, unlike by hand and chunking it out with a rasp.

is it the cost of the bit for the large size or what?

im thinking about maybe chambering it. if i think it might be strangely bright (which im not beliving it will) chambers might help out. or, i could go for heaviest guitar on earth with no chambers. lol

yep, i know its not a true rosewood. cause 2"x60"x9" of brazlian would run about what? i dont even want to know. id say 700$ if it even exist

this looks just like rosewood, sounds similar and cost not so bad

if so, then i will counter with un-harsh , un-bright pickups

thx. you can be assured its quickly wiped off and properly dried after the dampening. cant afford to buy more lol

and yes. please hold the "its going to weigh a ton" comments to a minimum

allright, construction starts monday. thats when i get the remainder of the parts in.

heres some pics of the wood i'll be using.

its a 22fret 25" scale PRS.

template was from guitarbuildingtemplates.com

parts:

-Planet Waves Locking/Cutting tuners. 3L3R. Black

-Black plastic binding. .090 x 1/4

-18" hot rod truss rod with 1/4" allen end

-ebony 25" scale board

-Medium-Tall fretwire 18% nickel

-Smith All Wood Epoxy will be used on whole guitar

-matching headstock slice cut from body

-scarf joint neck with added heel block for thickness

-body of guitar will be laminated ebony due to cost/availiblity of it

-no marker dots on board, only small ones on side in the binding

-Undecisive on Pickup choice yet, but might go with EMG hums.

-Bridge will be a custom one made by me, ill show the CAD files of it soon.

input needed! feel free to chime in with comments

(wood was wetted for some of the pics)

*heres the carved top piece of wood im using, its 8/4 Bolivian Rosewood (aka morado). will be ripped bookmatched*

*heres the back/neck of the guitar. 4/4 Macassar Ebony, real nice stuff, due to width restrictions the back will have to be laminated.

the wood looks ALOT more red in those pics than it actually is, look at the group of 3 to see the real looking brown/black tones.

why are the string furrules spaced so off? why didnt you just print out a template like this:

http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/bridges/pd...510_Diagram.pdf

and get the dimensions of how far they are supposed to be away from each other?

the best selection of spalted maple ive seen was on ebay. with something with such un-original grain and pattern to it, i woulnt buy it from a company that didnt let you see it first. thats the good thing about ebay is you see what you buy first.

it depends on how its finished, planed or surface sanded. it needs to be pretty dang flat, if not perfectly flat.

you'll also need to decide what kind of glue, epoxy or titebond (just go with titebond and not titebond II) and you'll need a few good wood clamps to keep some pressure down on it

thats really pretty. what kind of "contour sander" are you using?

what are you using now? and why?

i know they arent hard to find online, but i hate buying one thing located in all the way across the US.

i need something i can find locally at home depot or ace hardware

great. many thanks!

i just got a stewmac hot rod and i forgot they make the width a STUPID 7/32" width which is an extremely hard bit to find.

sooo. how exact does it have to be? can i just route a tad smaller size and then sand till it goes in?

ive seen people say "NO" you have to get exact size, then a recent guy went with one larger bit and said it worked. just wanting to make sure.

thx

http://order.harborfreight.com:80/EasyAsk/...ght/results.jsp

those are even cheaper than grizzly stuff. one is only 20$

lex, i think you usually see 1/2" chucks on high hp/expensive routers, so i dont think thats gonna be a problem for his way.

EDIT:

arrgg. stupid link just type in "router"

i like that write up, 3+ pages of black and white text and detailed info on how to make a guitar from a MULTI million dollar company. and not ONE picture of any of the process. what gives.

i think if you want the 'bare' look the best thing to do would be to oil it. any lacquer or poly will either give you a thick satin or gloss finish.

i would think the nitro or poly would bring the grain out a little more and give it a deeper mirror finish, but the oil would look natural.

what do you want?

*off topic*

nice gt in the background, ive got a sunset orange ws6 TA

got enough rosewood to do a bookmatched 1" top and 2 necks i think, 90$

ebony will have to be laminated cause i cant find a board thats 7x2x20 or 14x1x20. and if i did id have to sell my left kindey to get it. so im going with the lam route. dont think youll be able to see grain difference either.

the ebony neck and body wood was 180$

little pricey but id rather spend a few bucks more for something someone has never done before. think it will turn out real nice.

i love sanding and ive got some power tools. shouldnt be to horrible

not to much worried about the sound either. dont think it will be to harsh, thinking about PAF's so that should soften her up a little.

edit double post arrg

i agree, i will try it.

what ansil said about the active pickups..... i think the stock cable is meant to carry +5vdc or whatever. soooo thats 5 volts right? but isnt a active pickup 9volts?

nope, got the wood, and its gonna be badarse. wood looks SOOOOO beautiful. the rosewood board i got was 30lbs and the ebony for the neck and body is 16lbs. of course im not using it all but still should weigh a couple start cutting stuff tomm and all my parts are here monday. ill keep you guys update and im doing a step by step picture tutorial too!

mahogany is heavy huh? i wonder how much my rosewood top ebony body prs is gonna weigh. ouch. lol