asm

arent most amps. espcially older tube ones wired point to point or with a turret board anyways.

show us a schematic of exactly what amp your talking about.

t

the guys down at Home Depot made my quilt top.

DAYUM. nice. is that a Fadal?

is that top Ren? how much did that cost, never seen it in a sheet that thick.

nice work with the paths, did the roundover bit cut that smooth or did you finish by hand?

edit:

oh, ive got MasterCAM and Solidworks 2003 on my comp. got it with the mouseclick discount

took me FOREVER to find masterCAM. when you see how much it cost then you wonder why you cant find it.

"I'll be taking down the tree tomorrow."

if the whole story isnt BS, then that family got OWNED for the holidays. haha

is that bocote just laminated width wise? where did you get it from?

really nice stuff man!

sorry jeremy,

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Ca...and_kevlar.html

i was off a little, but not much. its around 15-25

heres an idea.

dont carve it out of a block of carbon fiber or graphite.

just make it hollow, use carbon fiber cloth, that can be bought for about 8-13$ a yard, buy a couple of yards, then just make a body jig, put the carbon fiber cloth in there to fit to your body shape, then epoxy it up like they do surfboards.

should probably use at least 5 layers of cloth.

http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/Surfboard_...ng_Bottom_1.jpg

i shaped and glassed a surfboard a few months ago, was alot of fun.

also, you wont need to do any kind of finish to it.

they do what they call a 'hotcoat' in which more catalyst is mixed with the epoxy, and it will kick faster, put that on with a brush and you can get a nice thick smooth finish you can sand with a softpad and 320grit on a power sander.

http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/Surfboard_...rd_7/Tail_1.jpg

im pretty sure industrial graphite doesnt have any of the same properties as pencil graphite. you cant rub it off on you, break it easiliy, ect.

if you do decide to sand any of it, watch out for the dust, very dangerous in that its got microscopic pieces of glass, worse than fiberglass, and the dust is pretty toxic i think.

i saw a Laguna ad in a mag the other day. looks like they have some pretty nice hi quality stuff out there.

check out their flagship lathe:

http://www.lagunatools.com/pinnicle.htm

thing uses chain drive instead of a horizontal leadscrew as far as i can tell. strange.

i had a situation with a 4" block of pine flying across the wood and shattering on the wall a while back. said i would never use a tablesaw again. to me its the most dangerous tool in the shop. i'll use a cut off, big bandsaw, shaper, router, planer all day, F a tablesaw man. nothing but asking to get hurt.

of the people i know that loose fingers 70%+ lost them on a tablesaw.

espeically if its Claro, or English walnut. they usually have alot more figure than the regular Black walnut.

http://www.ca-walnutdesigns.com/products/images/cwd%204d.jpg

that image is really overly contrasted in photoshop, but check out that grain. nice stuff.

NICE drawing man!

where did you find those dimensions? guitar center?

no motors or psu's.

there are alternatives that are WAY better than a dremel or rotozip, using a stationary head. much like the turning end on a lathe, bearings on both ends will have WAY less backlash than a dremel, and you can turn up your ipm cause will have less to worry about side to side pressure on. then mount you a 1/3 or 1/2 baldor motor on top and your set.

bits are cheap and if your doing wood or aluminum you have NOTHING to worry about in wear. pretty much anything is carbide tipped/solid these days. all the expensive stuff now is TiAN and the exotic coatings are the pricey ones.

for software i got solidworks and mastercam (took forever to find mastercam).

go see how much they retail for

as matthew lesko would say..... FREEEEEEE

i'd advise using a pre slotted fretboard also.

just make it easier on yourself and save alot of time. you can get a ebony fretboard thats slotted from stewmac.com for around 25$ i think. not bad at all.

got a pic of it fryo? id love to see it,

whats the dimensions?

im not accusing you of trying to copy anything.

just that if anything needs a tutorial, THIS process doesnt.

all you have to worry about is any magnetic material between the strings and pole pieces. you can use any wood, plastic, non-ferrous metal that i know of.

im just saying youve got alot of possibilites for this situation, so just throw out all the rules of how people have normally done it and go at it.

dont even bother looking at using snakewood. that stuff is extremely expensive. ive seen cane blanks go for 650$. i dont think it grows naturally wide enough for any of our usage ayways.

i still cant believe you got that fretboard from woodcraft. i thought they sold crap. guess not

that spalted AND flame maple prs body is AMAZING!

how did you carve the top? totally by hand or did you drill out the contour, ect?

rosewood neck is amazing, what type of rosewood is that? expensive in your country?

keep up the good work!

stop trying to just duplicate stuff.

if you dont know how something is attached, or made. MAKE your own, and let other people ask YOU how XXX's covers are made and where can they get them.

there is no set rules on something simple like that. and since your going to be making them, you have a full range of possibilities.

dont let others traditional ways make you think you have to do them that way.

experiment, thats how things are made. have fun with it and just dont copy!

and so follows the panic search for any available clamps

made little wood protectors out of 1/8th masonite so the metal clamps that put down the most pressure wont mar the wood.

overhead shot.

got clamps?

wish i had some that reached a bit farther inwards.

and as always, stay tuned for more pics tonight

looking a bit better, dont mind the pilot holes on the forstner tho

rough sanding with 150 klingspor to rough it up a bit getting ready for glue. taking all the oils out of the top, then i'll wipe it down with denaturated alky to finish before gluing.

glue spread out over the top, a bit of excess is used around the edge to assure even flowout.

just a bit is addded to the top incase of any unseen cuts that wont get filled in with the bottoms glue.

headstock lam rough trimmed and truss rod channel rough cut to be able to lay flat. not glued down just yet.

routing different pickup access channel, i didnt have a short enough template router bit and a template made so i just used a small forstner and will rough it out then finish by hand.

press was set on 2600rpm but it was waaaay to fast, kept burning my wood and killing the temper on all my bits. put her down to 880 rpm and let the bit do the work, def helped out alot. no smoke.

channels roughed out, between pickups will be a middle channel, then the bottom right of the bridge humbucker will be the access to the control cavity, couldnt come in from the top cause of clearence of the pots.

ghetto-chiseling a straighter path. as brittle as ebony is, it will pull a whole splinter lenghtwise off if you dont watch it and go slow. crazy grain.

are you using any kind of template?

also, what access to any sort of power tools do you have?

man im kicking myself right now. i, for some strange reason, thought a truss rod adjusted warping/twisting neck. i *knew* it adjusted backbow and front bow though.

i just got back from working at the shop, and its 3am. so give me a break.