GREGMW

Should I shield and earth the PU cavities for humbuckers.

I was going to put some copper foil in there and run a seperate earth wire back to a common point in the control cavity .

Is this the right way

Thanks

Greg

Hi,

I need to fill 4 x 1/8 screw holes (they are slightly out of square ) ,then re drill them to re use them.

What is best to use.

They will not be seen as they will be under the bridge.

I was going to cut some small dowells, about 1/8 inch round . and glue them in but I am not sure how strong this will be as they will be holding the bridge.

TIA

(yes, the second one will be easier!)

Hi all,

How many of you guys reckon the second guitar is easier to build than the first and did you make some new "Stuff ups" instead of the ones you made first up.

This is just something I have been thinking about as I am just finishing the first one and I know that there is a lot of things I would do differently the second time around .

You learn by mistakes!! and how to fix them I suppose.

Cheers

Greg

In Sydney,

Annagate Timber Marrickville (Near the Sydney Airport)

Gillett at Botany -Near Sydney Airport www.giletguitars.com.au.

Hendersons timber St Marys - Miles from the airport.

All of the above are very good bunch of people to deal with.They all have someone thats into building guitars.

Good luck

Hi,

I am trying to wire 2x Seymour Duncan 4 wire humbuckers as illustrated in Denis Warings book-build your own electric guitar

Firstly has anybody wired this out of his book.

I am using the 2 x HBs ,1 volume,1 blend pot, 2 tone pots both with push/pull switches and a 3 way selector switch.

I am not sure of the connections to the PUs.?

He has Bridge Hot and Neck Hot which is OK but there are 2 wires,one marked "neck PU series connector" and another" Bridge PU series connector"

Which wires would I connect these too ? Would this be the series joint (Red & White) of the PU.

IE: Black - hot, Green -Com - Red & White joined -(Series Connector?)

Great book but lacks a lot of detail.

TIA

Greg

I am starting to cut the nut for the guitar .I cut the slot with a ground down saw blade then I found some old strings I had and used them to widen the slot.

They cut it ok but the hard part is keeping them straight.I am sure their would be some way to fit them into a small saw frame

The other thing that I found useful was a set of Oxy welding Tip cleaning files

I haven't finished the nut yet but I am hopeful this works

Just some thoughts.

Greg

I have used Tung oil (about 8 coats) on the ash body and it came up great -at first.

A couple of (hot) days later it feels quite rough and the grain is very open -not smooth like it was.

I was thinking of using a wax on it and giving it a good buff up.

Is this the way to go or just sand it back smooth and leave it?

Thanks

Greg

What would be the best recommended size nut files to start with for building guitars.

Thanks Soapbarstrat,

I did what you suggested and it look OK.

regards

Greg

I have noticed a very ,very small split in the rosewood fretboard about the 16th fret -at the A string .

I think the screw for the neck was a bit long and has split it.

I removed the screw and cut a bit off it but should I try to do something with the split or let it go?

Its not really noticable by eye but you can feel it.Is there any kind of filler or sealer I could use.

Thanks

Greg

Do any of you guys know of any good Valve Amp building sites?

TIA

Hi Southpaw ,

I was wondering what you ended up using.I am thinking of useing the Pearly Gates for the bridge and the neck, so I am interested in your outcome.

Regards

Greg

I was going to use a Tung oil on it anyway ,

Should I put a coat on the body before I finish it (as it may take a bit of time) just to seal it .

I would never consider painting this timber.

Thanks

Greg

Thanks for your replies.

I dont believe it but I tried it again today and it seems tight again

It might be the weather??? OR I am going nuts!

Regards

Greg

When I cut the neck pocket on the body it was a nice snug fit.About 10 days later I find that its not as snug as it was and I can move the neck a little side to side.

I can fit a piece of paper down beside the neck and the body and that makes it a good fit.

I am going to screw the neck to the body but I was wondering if I should make a wooden packer or shim and glue it into the neck pocket before I screw the neck in.

I dont know what has caused this but I presume it might be the weather.

TIA

Greg

Thanks Dugz,

I presume that after the Tung Oil dries its not "oily"?

What about the Maple neck?Would that come up OK .

Should I buff the body & neck after the last coat?

I dont want a "gloss" finish but a natural look with a bit of sheen.

Thanks

Greg

Hi,

I have a Ash body and a maple neck which I am thinking uf using a Tung oil finish on (Any suggesteions) but I was wondering before I use the oil should I use a grain sealer on the Ash?

Does the oil finish come up alright? When I apply it should I buff it after its dry?

Any other info or links.

Thanks

Greg

Would it hurt to put the lemon oil on before I finish the neck and fit the frets or should I wait till I finish the guitar?

I was going to use a tung oil on the body and neck,mainly because its easier.

Hi .

I have used a rosewood fretboard and was wondering what should I put on it for a finish . if anything , and at what stage of the project I should do it.

I might not complete the guitar for a while so I kind of want to protect it from the elements.

Thanks

Greg

PS-How do I post a picture here?

Hey all .

At long last I have almost finished my neck.

I can say that the 2nd (or should I say 3rd as the first one got stuffed up) would be a lot easier,because what I have learnt here is unbelievable.

Like dont use a router to shape the neck!!!

I am still not 100% happy with the headstock and the part behind the nut, but I can still keep working on it to try to improve it and clean it up.

I am not sure how to post a photo here but when I find out I will.

Any way thanks all for the advise and help-so far .Hopefully one day I might be able to come up with some answers and advise .

Cheers

Greg

I forgot to say that its a Tele style headstock. (6 in line machine heads)

Any help Please

Thanks

Greg

Hi again,

I Just finished shaping my neck (second time around ) and I started trying to setout for drilling the holes for the machine heads,which I thought would be pretty simple BUT I have a pre slotted Stewmac Fender style nut and when I started setting it all out I cant seem to get the machine heads inline with the strings and even along the headstock.

How do you guys set them out.

Thanks in advance -Again!!

Greg

You get what you pay for!! I don't think I would spend that much on a GMC jigsaw.They are not meant for Hard Work.The guy in the hardware probably makes more on them.

If you can save up another $100.00 dollars or so and pick up one of the Tiawanese 14 inch bandsaws you might be better off.

They are cheap but I have one and after some tuning etc it cuts pretty good.It cost about $280.00

If not maybe look around for a second hand Makita,Bosch or De Walt jigsaw.They are around.

Regards

Greg

I found if you keep the timber moving along and dont push it into the drum should help

Whats the best way to cut the transition (the curved section behind the nut) from the fretboard to the headstock on a Fender style neck.

I see that Guitarfrenzy uses a drum sander ,but I was wondering what other methods you could use.?

Also with the guitar I am building I am using the Hot rod truss rod with the small allen type adjustment screw.

I am going to have this at the body end so access will be under the neck PU.Would this work & adjust OK with the type of screw.

TIA

Greg

PS Thanks Guitarfrenzy for the great site.Its really helpfull to be able to check out to see if I am stuffing up before I do!