Andreas

Which tuners do you suggest for a guitar that doesnt have a tremolo? ( dont know if it made a difference if it had a tremolo)

I may know physics but in electronics im a complete dumbass. I salute you ansil

tape the pieces...it usually takes 4 A 4 pages. It is pretty accurate.

I find it subtracts sustain. And having less sustain is what gives it more a a hollow-body sound, which I like. I also think it makes the "attack " less sharp. Although we'd have to go into what kind of wood, bridge, scale length , etc. I just know from experience that I found what I said above to be true for strats where a "swimming pool" rout had been done.

Are you sure it subtracts sustain?...I only suspected that the extra vibration would remove energy from the string but I always heard ( or thought I heard) that chambering increases sustain.

Just something I would like to mention...I dont know if you already know this and it is completly useless for me to say it but the phase shift most probably will be of constant difference since we are talking about coherent sources...the delay is extremly small. Since the phase difference is constant it will create a stable driving pattern....it will just form a differend kind of vibration...hence the differend effect on differend frequencies. The phase difference if it is contant it will not cause in any way a dampening of the string. The dampening and amplification of the vibration only has to do with the frequency. Afterall a 0 phase difference is just a constant phase difference...thats why it works on a stable pattern of vibration.

well I was just seting a metafor....but ok. hehe

I cant imagine being deaf...altho for a time period I was when I was too young to remember. Fortunately I was operated in time.

Btw to set the meaning of my previous post right...

You cant go to an art gallery if your blind and you cant go to a concert if your deaf.

You can go..of cource you can go but it is obviously not going to be the same. So as making a guitar without plans...you will feel out of place, but yeas you can try and do it without plans if you feel you are a genius talent that can picture and translate perfect with his mind`s eye then go for it.

its chamBered!!!!! not chamPered.....lol

I wrote it chambered and I stoped and thinked about it and then it seemed wrong.

Oh well excuse my english it is not my first language.

I did mine with two chambers that ran down the wings of the guitar and I certainly don't have a feedback problem.

Thats what I plan to do...it is going to be a neckthrough.

Im thinking to champer my guitar to make it less heavy and to better define tone and sustain with a sharper attack (almost quoting from the melvyn hiscock book ) but what I want to ask...Will it cause feedback problems at high gain sounds? and who agree with the discribtion of the champered tone given?

If you make an inch deep wont you rout out the wood of the long tenon for the pickups? If that happenes then the tenon needs to be up to your first pickup (the closer to the neck) since it has no need to be this long, unless the look of a neckthrough is required that I guess two veneeres of the same wood (kind of rectangular inlays) would do the job.

You cant go to an art gallery if your blind and you cant go to a concert if your deaf.

The same stands for guitar...you cant make it without plans...You will try to shape it but you will not see it and you will try to bring it together but you will not understand what exactly you are doing.

That said...Im making my plans for the templates now...(I have them on paper)..for a PRS. Basically I printed a straight-on-the-guitar photo and them measured 10-12 points on it and figured out its excact scale..(You can never get it right from only one measurment...I had values ranging from 244% increase to 236%). I enlarged it and printed it. I left a part of the neck to measure the frets to check my results. I was dead on the frets..it is a 25 in scale guitar and worked out the distances between the frets and checked it out.

Does anyone else suggest another way I could check out the distances to see if they are correct?

Yeah I didnt my calculations based on the thinnest base plate.

Now the question that stands is Who feel that a ressesed bridge is more comftable?

I didnt have any expierience so far with ressesed bridges so I really dont know.

Hmm I see,

Unfortunatelly no money right now. Ill see if I can convince my younger brother to start playing guitar and buy that one a humbucker.

I have a medium quality stratocaster copy that sounds like crap. It has an overall ok clean sound but when distorted it is too muddy. Its confiquration is single / single/ humbucker. The humbucker is in the bridge and I just measured the resistance across it and it rates at 8.4 Kilo ohms. Do you think that a booster circuit will enchance the whole instument?

There may even be some kind of physics at work here that I'm not familiar with. Perhaps the string vibrates because it is being stimulated magnetically at it's resonant frequency on some kind of molecular level? Purely speculating, as I have no idea!

Actually a current passing throught the string will create a magnetic field around it.

That magnetic field will be driven by another magnetic field...pickups.

I performed a test in my physics A level a while ago. I passed current throught a string that was the thickness of about the high E string. The current was driven by AC voltage so it had a certain frequency....I think it was 50Hz. Anyway...the experimend a magnet around the coil creating magnetic field around it (a pickup will do the same job). Then I started adding weights on the string...a way to tune it up. As soon as it started to match the frequency of the driving current it went wild. The current was kind of high and the magnetic field was strong. It had an amplitude of vibration of about 3 - 4 cm.

So if this is aplied to guitar situation it can be thought that if the pickup output is passed throught the strings it will drive the strings instead of stoping them due to the magnetic pull.

I will try to experiment on it on my strat copy and see what results I get.

It is perhaps more likely that, unlike conventional pickups that sense (or in this case drive) a small portion of the string, this is driving at, of all places a guaranteed node where all vibrations meet.

Hmm so it forms some kind of electromagnetic stationary wave in the string, which (due to the pickup magnetism) translates into mechanical stationary wave which in fact is a vibrating string.

Interesting....if that is true then all you need is a signal generator on the bridge...altho it sounds too simplistic to be fuctional.

hehehe

They dont look small in picutres, but i think they do look small in real life.

why would you want to copy the shape or headstock of another brand of guitar?? Why not design your own unique one??

I was thinking to design one. The headstock seems to be the ground to add your own touch to the instrument. I just wanted to make a template of what the original is so I pretty much had in mind what to do...Altho it might wont have any resemblance to the original it would be a nice dimention guide. Do not overdo it lets say.

I worked out a blown up image of a prs headstock to 1:1 scale.

I printed it and all seems ok. When I cut it and move it around in the photo I used to compare distances on the body (eg. the tip of the headstock till its end is almost the same distance as the start of the one humbucker till the end of the other or from the bridge till the end of the body) and then check them on the template of the body I made its all ok...all seems to be a perfect fit.

The point of me saying this is that it seems to me that it is a bit small. I dont know it just seems too small to be correct (altho all measures out well...I left the first fret on the printout to measure it and is excactly perfect.) You out there that have a PRS is it smaller than normal or it is just my imagination?

This discovery has rekindled my idea of building the driver into the bridge as this too provides a conveniant hunk of metal to work with...

If you build it on the bridge will it have the power to drive the strings? I mean if you consider momentwise it is much much easier to drive the string as close as its midpoint is. (not the 12th fret since when you fret the half distance changes)

Think of it like trying to open a door by pussing it at the hinge and not at the knob.

I used to paint guitars and did it quite well, then I stopped partly because I thought it was a lot of work just to make the guitar sound worse. But I don't build guitars from scratch, I just like making ones that already exist better. And I only strip body finishes for myself. (necks for others sometimes)

After you remove the finish do you close it with oil or something?

And If you do can you post some photos?

Since I dont have almost any experience with finishing my self I would like to see the different results you get from different finishes. Can anyone suggest a site or something?

hmm....a new desision...

who think that ressesing the bridge is a good idea?....We are talking a rought 2 - 3 mm according to my thoughts.

I didnt have any expierience with a ressesed bridge so far. Is it more comftable for palm mutes and general playing?

If the action is too high you could always recess the bridge slightly during pre-paint assembly, ie: route a recess for the baseplate to sit in

Yes thatswhat I want to avoid doing by calculating all these numbers... I hope I dont end up to that since I think It will start to loose some comfortability if it is too low

Since you are going to do the job...finishing that is...why not do it good? I mean you always should try for your best when doing something especially a guitar. I think is a pity to work your ass off in the making of it and just finish it carelessly just to get the job done.

I dont think in electric guitars there is a difference in the sound of the guitar which is finished and unfinished. There are so many factors affecting that I would grade the finishing in the negligible category (of course there is no mathimatical formula proving anything so I could be wrong).

Also guitar is a piece of wood with metal that excides the sences. I think that the magic of the damn thing. Why not excide the vision as well?

Im reading now from the Melvyn Hiscock boock and it says about compensation:

"The amount of compensation needed depends upon a number of factors including action,string thickness and string tension. For a low action and light strings very little compensation might be required on the treble side of a bridge although up to 3 mm might be needed depenting on the setup. THe bass side will need approximately 3 - 4 mm more...This adjustment is usually well within the limits of the bridge"

As you see you dont really need to worry that much about it..the bridge can be ajusted to that compentation.

Just for the sake of conversation Im planing these things at this time and I made a post about bridges. The hipshot that was mentionted alows a span of 6.3mm of adjustment so it prety much covers the worst case scenario.

The fixed bridge by hipshot seems excelent.

The lowest height is 7.62 mm in the one with the lowest base.

If you subtract from it the fretboard thickness which is 4.8mm on average and the 1 mm thickness of the frets you get a total of the lowest action possible of 1.82mm.

To be able to compensate that lowest value on a 25 inch scale you will need an angle of 0.45 degrees which is imposible

My curent action in my guitar is more than 3 mm and I feel its prety low since it sometimes gives me fret buzzing.

So after saying that I feel that this bridge can give me the option of doing a neckthrough without a neck angle.

also i used this bridge with no neck angle on a neckthru guitar. i just about got away with it

john.

John you made something im only planning to do. Please tell me some more about what you made...When it is at its lowest action how low is it?