Fan O' Zakk

I'm currently working on a fairly complicated multi-layer paint job, and I'm putting clear intercoats between each color, so that taping is less likely to damage the already laid down paint. My question is, should I be lightly wetsanding the clears before putting the next tape on? My thinking is a smoother surface would release the tape better, but that could be wrong... Thanks for your thoughts!

If you are using a automotive intercoat then it only needs to be sanded if you leave it open past the window. Most paint recoat windows are within 48hrs. If you go past it should be sanded or skuffed with a scotchbright pad. Most of the time I use intercaot to seal down the airbrush work because it is very light and has less adhesion than painting solid color. When Painting solid colors the only reason I would use intercoat clear is to bury the paint edge or to allow it to stay uncleared to allow skuffing later. The less you do this the better in my opinion. I like to bury my graphics with the final clear.

Alright, thanks for the advice. I'm using this clear as a means of helping bury the paint edges where I've pulled up tape, since there's gonna be a few different layers of color, and I don't want huge differences between the lowest paint layer and the highest. So there's no forseeable problem with the tape sticking more or less with sanding or not?

I'm currently working on a fairly complicated multi-layer paint job, and I'm putting clear intercoats between each color, so that taping is less likely to damage the already laid down paint. My question is, should I be lightly wetsanding the clears before putting the next tape on? My thinking is a smoother surface would release the tape better, but that could be wrong... Thanks for your thoughts!

Here's one for y'all.

The middle node (a true dead spot in string vibration, where movement is near nil) would be classified as dead center between the nut and bridge. That'd be the 12th fret.

So if you're picking the string open, or even fretting it at one of the lower frets, the amount that the string's moving near the 12th is near squat anyhow.

Instead of worrying about explosion proof exhaust fans, why not just pressurize a paint booth using a normal fan, and have a series of filters leading to an exhaust vent?

No longer is there risk of paint/solvent vapours ever reaching the fan, or any moving parts, for that matter. The filters would take care of much of the particulates before it can be released into the atmosphere.

I think it would be a cheaper and simpler alternative to hunting down explosion-proof fans, or doing the whole sealed/belt driven affair.

What say you all?

Unbelievable. Simple test you can do on ANY oil to see if it can be used to finish wood: pour a small, thin amount on a flat, non-absorbant surface, leave it for a day. If it's hardened or hardening by then, it'll work. If not, try something else.

Disregard...found my answer. The wonders of the search button triumph again!

The neck on my old Harmony is bent. Basically, the area of the fretboard that lies along the body is nice and flat...and the area from the nut to the neck/body joint is nice and flat...but where those two sections meet, they meet at an angle.

Is this a truss rod issue? A neck re-set issue? A neck in need of reinforcement?

Help please!

Just a thought about finishing it...yes, aluminium is a bit tough to paint...and I'm fairly sure that you could not gold plate it, either.

Anodize it!!! The texture, the color vibrance...the durability...it's SO worth it!

Just make sure you go through the entire guitar and get the surface super smooth first!

I went from factory finished les paul, to bare wood, and back up to a bullseye finish, with wetsanding and reassembly inside 4 evenings.

Was it good quality? Not even close to what I am capable of...I'm almost loathe to admit it's my work

But I banged it out in time for the gig.

hey guys, i was just wondering if any of you have used a sanding sealer thats cheaper than the stew-mac stuff.  Prefferably something i can get at a hardware store.  I just sprayed the first coat of sanding sealer, and i only bought one can.  I can sorta tell that 1 can isnt gonna be enough.  I also have 4 more cans of nitro. On that note, is there a cheaper "hardware" store alternative to that laquer as well?  Ive never finished a guitar before so pretty much any advice would be nice.

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I found a sandable sealer by Killz that works great! It comes in a white can, as I recall...

you could also go to lowes or walmart and buy aluminum tape. it should be in the same aisle as the masking tapes.

it basically the same as copper tape but u can find it more easily.

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It doesn't work. Aside from the fact that aluminum doesn't adhere to solder, the adhesive on the bottom of the tape is an insulator, so two overlapping strips will not conduct. It just doesn't work well, trust me, I've tried.

I've done the conversion, it's quite simple, really. Disasemble the pickup, snip the wire connecting the two coils, and then lengthen each one.

Here's the deal:

You'll need to upgrade the power tranny, the output tranny, add twice the power tubes, increase the filtering in the power supply, and do a few other minor changes. Depending on the amp, should run from 200 bucks on up for parts. Labour'll getcha another coupla c-notes.

-FOZ

P.S. where did ya pick up that bit of fiction 'bout Page's setup?

Looks preety darn decent for a rushed job.  Only thing I would have done different is the choice of paint.  I would have used ReRanch Gold top just to get the nice shimmer that the real gold top gets, kida like orange-greenish when the lights hits it in the right spots.  And to see that you did it the hard way makes it better.  I would have gotten one of those vynil sets and uesd the transfer tape instead of tracing my own lines. 

Great Job.

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Thanks man. I honestly had no end to difficulty finding a Gold that was even close. I think eventually I may re-do the guitar when I have a few weeks to do it. Thanks for the tip on ReRanch. I'll check 'em out.

looks good to me, but we need better pics! lol

-Jamie

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Workin' on it...

Looks RIGHTEOUS!

I am working on a project where the graphics will require similar masking to what you did. What material (tape? adhesive vinyl?) did you use to do the actual masking? May I aPM you a bunch of questions over the next few days?

Keep up the GREAT work!

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I used 3M blue painter's tape. It cuts well, leaves a clean release, and comes in some decent widths.

Cool it looks good what are you useing for pickup's, are they the same as Zakk's

!!METAL MATT!!

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The EMG Zakk Wylde set. Great pickups.

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/1.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/2.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/3.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/4.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/5.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/6.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/7.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/8.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/9.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/10.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/11.jpg

http://www.mts.net/~klharlow/pics/Goldie/13.jpg

Took 4 evenings, beginning to end. Fit and finish isn't where I wanted it to be, but that's what happens with a rush job. Used Dupli-Color for the works. Please forgive the image quality...

Nice job! Would you mind giving me the part # for that color? It's exactly the color I'm looking for for my project.

Which color are you referring to?

Measure the output voltage of the amp while it's plugged into a correct speaker load.

Take the number you get, and square it.

Divide by 4.

Over at Ed Roman's shop, they use cotton balls to blend the paint, and gold leaf, as well...and it looks great!

Motomaster clear is Enamel, and gets EVERYWHERE and stays super-tacky. At least, the can I was using the other week was...

You want to use dupli-color clear...available at the same place, and for aboot the same price.

My Crybaby's switch doesn't work anymore. It is always on. Only way to bypass the signal is to unplug the wah and do the bypass "physically".

I haven't changed the switch yet as I'm not using it often. But I wonder if it is a common problem with Crybabies.

I've been thinking of dissecting the old switch from mine to find out...

At any rate, I put a DPST switch in it to make it true bypass, then added a Q control, so now my wah is a sick monster, and I've never had switch problems since. <shrugs>

My vintage crybaby used to do that to me, and I determined it was because the rubber feet impeded the rocker from fully switching the pedal on or off, and as a result, the signal grounded out and became nil.

I fixed this by pulling the rubber feet off the rocker, but if you don't wish to do this, you could try raising the switch some...

Good for you, I rather not take the risk... I use metalic paint, and in the case of my LP the mirage color changing paint, one little piece that gets lifted, and it's a complete REDO! I seen a very large tape, like the one used on the auto industry for the custom jobs that you just lay on top of the outline tape and then cut over your out line and peel the part you want painted. I will see if I can get my hands on some of this and let you know how it turns out.

Valid point, Maiden69...

Finally, a Red Green signature guitar!

The man's my hero! StratDudeDan, you NEED to send pictures of that into his show!

One of the main Gibson/PRS lawsuits was over neck joints. PRS was using a proprietary process/concept developed by Gibson.