jackruby

I certainly will give it a shot. My experience though is the standard spaced pups lack a bit of volume in an f-spaced axe. I was just thinking this would be the opposite

Thanks

btw, love your signature

Hi all

I have a FRED pickup ( DP153 ) and it's an 'F' spaced unit. I'd like to try to find a used unit but standard-spaced ( for Gibson's ).

I think I'm going to peel/sand off the spray on crap and start over. I'm going to buy a spray gun...any recommendations? What brand/type of poly should I use in a spray gun? Thanks everyone for the replies! I'm learning a lot

Yup...my poly coats peeled like snakeskin just like you said This sucks. Guess i'll go down to the color-coats and try again with some real poly.

Hey, would one of you tell me the entire process if using poly, including exactly how to do the last part as far as what grit paper, compounds and so forth? please!

Here's a great thread I read: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1362

Heres another one: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1723

I sprayed another coat last night and the scuffs DID hide :D I was sure they would but something like this, you just hate to have to redo it LOL

Now onto searching this forum for tips on final buffing

Hold on there cowboy...I'd venture you're still about 8 coats short of being able to buff out.

Rattle can poly is way thinner than the stuff folks shoot out of HVLP guns, so it goes on very thin. Unless you're laying it down rather thick (in which case it wouldn't be all that dry after a day), keep scuff sanding between coats and shoot about 10.

Then let it cure for at least 2 weeks (or more) so it is rock hard before you buff. You shouldn't be able to smell any solvents coming off, or be able to dent the finish with your fingernail at all. If you try to buff too early, it will look like hell....tiny scratches everywhere, little gloss.

Thanks for the feedback

I have 6 coats now and do plan on at LEAST 10. I didn't know the rattle-can products are thinner but I shouldve known that...simple physics. haha

I've also read that the spray poly is nearly usable overnight but yes, I'd planned on waiting about a month or more before I started the final steps

again, thanks for listening and helping

I'm planning to use gloss polyurethane on a Thinline Tele I'm putting together, I didn't know I'd need to polish it at all when I got the final coat on it................. Are you sure about doing this step? Please tell me more if this is in fact needed because I want to do what will be best for the finished product.

Yea, you'll want to buff out the final coat to give it a high shine.

I sprayed another coat last night and the scuffs DID hide :D I was sure they would but something like this, you just hate to have to redo it LOL

Now onto searching this forum for tips on final buffing :D

Yes the scratches will hide in the next coat. Make sure the surfaces are clean before spraying the next coat. You don't want sanding dust in the clear.

Thanks

What poly did you use? And why are you scuffing between coats? If it is can stuff, it should adhere with no need to scuff. You only do this if you have imperfections and if not at the end before final buffing. If it is 2K, then you have a window that you have to finish your coats, if not then you need to sand with no more than 1500 and that is even pushing it.

I come from 'old skool' I suppose. I used to build plastic model cars and that's how we always used to lay down coats. I've never done a clear coat though so I wasnt TOO sure

The poly is minwax spray.

I appreciate the replies

Hello everyone

I apologize if this question has been answered before but I could not find it easily.

I have sprayed a coat of polyurethane and it dried. I then took 0000 steel wool to prepare it for the next coat but now the poly is scratched and scuffed and doesnt look good Is this normal? Will spraying the next coat hide these blemishes or should I buff out the scratched coat first?

Thanks