ISUBARUI

Here are two more pictures. The bearing on my bit broke so i could not follow any templates so i had to route all the cavities by hand. Thanks for the tips hyunsu, I have only been using sandpaper on the neck so far to carve it so ill keep doing that.

This is it so far i still have to route the electronics cavities then sand the neck pocket out correctly then paint it. The neck still need to be sanded. The neck is a one piece of birdseye maple.

alright thanks. Should i drill the holes for the faceplate and what not before or after i paint the body?

does it need to be to scale cause if it does you will have to tell the me a deminsion of something on that bass that is knows like the length of the pickup or or the bridge etc. I have it traced but its not to any specific scale.

What is a good depth to route the pickup cavities and the electronic cavity on a strat??

ill try tracing it saturday since i have to do other cad work anyway, but i'll only trace the body. You sure its your "friend" that wants it done???

Is the bulge on the SRV neck on the top or the bottom of the neck?

First, on the warmoth website they have a picture of a SRV neck back, does the neck buldge down or up when it is put on the guitar to play. The second thing i wanted to know is if anyone knows how fender is using a 12" radius for the fingerboard on the SRV neck with what looks like the same tremelo as all the other guitars that have a 9.5" radius. Are they just raising the outer trem parts a lot on the tremelo or what

You could try asking around to see if a tailor that normally works with leather clothes could stich up the leather around the guitar. It wouldnt even need to be very precise if you want the seam showing like on the audi seats.

Instead of stiching the two pieces of leather together how about routing a channel around the guitar, for example on the side the two pieces of leather meet, then use plastic or metal strips to wedge the two ends together into the channel then fill over it with some type or inlay or just use a wedge that gives a nice finish. I'll be attempting to cover a guitar in a month or so either trying this method or just use stiching.

According to my book the Les Paul is 2 1/4" center and 2" edge. A PRS is shown to be 1 3/4" center and 1 1/2" edge. For reference a strat is 1 3/4".

When you install the Stew mac hot rod does the back of the rod where there are still small pieces of thread sticking out just sit against the wood or do you need to put something between the threaded rod and the wood to keep it from digging into the wood when you adjust it.

It might not adhere to the wood with a strong bond "grip" but it does insulate very well it forms a tight uniform bond. You dont need a strong grip when staining to create a natural binding do you just a tight uniform seal right?

How would electrical tape work for masking off the natural binding area? It has a really thick adhesive that i assume would keep the dye out well.

I had an old guitar with the same problem, the nut kept falling out all the time so i had to go look for it if i wanted to play. Maybe it was jealous of the locking nut and kept trying to run away??????????

I'm also building a PRS and about 3 of them have passed through my hands in the last month, with lots of meticulous scanning and observing, so I might be able to give you a hand.

From the PRSes you have seen what is the neck angle or is it angled at all? Right now on my cad mockup i have it at 2 degrees but i think i will need to make it more like 3 to get the correct string hieght over the fingerboard unless i use a smaller nut and recess the bridge.

How about this Freud bit only 10.99 even cheaper except shipping.Bit

I think i fixed it i realized that the second i posted you posted back to fast see if it works now. This is a small part from the larger drawing i am working on if you want it i can e-mail it.

Will this bridge setup work for a PRS with a 25" scale, this is the first guitar that i have built so i dont know if there is something wrong with where these parts at aligned. There is a line that shows where 25" is from the nut to the bridge.

pic

Thats what i was wondering why should i pay around $80+ for bridge and tailpiece for what looks like a couple of tapped holes. Just so i understand the Tonepros has a tapped hole in the bracket screw to tighten down from the top as well as an allen screw on each side.

But why does the hole have to be drilled through the full length of the stud?

Where is this 1.5" long hole that needs to be drilled? They also sell taps individually atleast here in the big city as well as screws.

so if i can drill two holes and then tap them i will save myself 40 bucks and get the same result?

Is the only difference between the tonepros and "stop" bridge or tailpiece that the tonepros has a small set screw in it? Or are there other differences that justify the large price difference?

Im wondering if anyone here uses air tools and if so which ones do you use for what purpose?