six_stringer

Just for the fun of it I tried Behr Premium Plus Metallic interior trim paint on some scrap and it worked fine. However, it was too thick to spray so it had to be reduced(alot)with water and tinted with TransTints to get the color I wanted. It's a waterbased 100% acrylic formula and I haven't seen it on the shelves for a couple of years(discontinued?) at my local Home Depot. I sprayed this paint on an Ash PRS style body and neck then sprayed a coat of waterbased clear(StewMac) with a little flake in it over that and when dry a few coats of a 2 part clear. It's several years old and is still holding up just fine. I still have enough finish left over for several guitar's. That being said, to make things easier for yourself you should stick to paints commonly used on the guitar.

Sometimes you get good results with products that you weren't expecting anything from at all. I haven't sprayed anything in a while and need to get some bodies prepped for painting soon.

Good Luck,

Jeff

Rockler sells a nice Dozuki saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30. The blade is replaceable as well.

Do you have this saw? I ask because I tried to find one at a local Rockler and the salesmen didn't know any of the info on those saws. Also, I didn't have any luck searching their website so if you have a link or a part number that would be very nice.

Thanks,

Jeff

"CNC... hmmm I want one... but not this year. This year I am buying a new belt sander, bigger drum sander, and a new Bandsaw."

You build some really nice guitar's and I aspire to build with the same quality as you. Also, thanks for documenting all of these builds.

I have been thinking about getting a Jet 16-32 drum sander for some time and saw that you had the 10-20. I have wanted the larger drum sander for some time but have been short on cash. I would use it for everything I could but mainly for whole bodies and glued up book matched tops. If I may ask, what is your main reason for getting a bigger drum sander? Have you decided on a particular model as a replacement for the 10-20? Also, have you had any problems with that brand drum sander? I ask because I had a chance to get a used 10-20 at half the price of a new one some time ago but decided to hold out until I could afford the 16-32 model.

Thanks, Jeff

Nothing to be sorry about, I have brainfarts often.

I followed the instructions and had great results with the product that's why I will use it again.

I've used the Spray Max 2k version in a can on a couple of guitars and like how fast it dries for recoating. However, I only use it outside with a respirator, eye protection, gloves and long sleeves because it is dangerous. If I had a proper booth in my basement with an explosion proof fan etc. then I would use it for all my guitar finishing. Otherwise I use waterbase stuff. Also, the Spray Max 2k costs less than the Aeromax. Just one place where it can be purchased. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/search.aspx?keywords=SprayMax

I also checked the Home Depot in South St. Louis County for Tints All and the guy at the paint counter looked at me like I was speaking Greek. Some of the local hobby/art supply shops might carry it though.

Jeff

I built my long tenon neck guitar in 2005 after seeing pictures of them on Ed Romans website. I drew it up on paper and built it.

Jeff

The Schaller Roller bridge is adjustable from 1-29/32" to 2-1/4"(48.42mm to 57.15mm) according to stewmac.com.

Jeff

I too have made a long tenon guitar that at least I believe turned out very nice. It was my first attempt at this type of guitar but was my fourth actual build. I will probably do another one in the future. I entered it in the guitar of the month contest but didn't win. There were many guitars so much better than mine entered that I wish I owned. Here is the link. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...hl=six_stringer

I remember seeing his band play many times and they were really good. Nice work.

I was cruising lumberjocks last night and saw this post and thought I would share. Brilliant use of leftover scrap wood, if you ask me. Luthier Clamps Video

That was cool. Thanks for posting it.

Jeff

I don't have a PRS so I just blew up a picture of the peghead until the nut was the size I wanted to use. Mine ended up being 3 & 7/16" wide at the widest part near the high and low E strings.

Good luck.

do you happen to know how many coats/cans of the spray max to get a nice thick clear? i want a nice candy look.

Thanks..

-ndamaren

It's been almost a year since I sprayed those guitar's and unfortunately I didn't write down everything I did while finishing. However, I seem to recall spraying two to three heavy coats from one can and waiting almost two hours between spraying the coats. I might have used four cans for two guitar's and various test scraps. Sorry I can't give you more detail.

Good Luck.

I've used Spray Max 2k clear on three guitar's and it worked fine. Also, at half the price of the Alsa 2k it's a deal in my opinion.

One of the guitar's I cleared with Spray Max 2k is the Metallic Gold (AutoAir Colors) Charvel strat style body in my pic to the left.

I have used it on 4 guitar's and it works well. Like cSuttle said, be prepared or you will waste more product than you use.

Did you have any issues with the saddles while bending strings?

no, although the saddles can rotate a bit when stringing up. as soon as string pressure is on they stay in the right place

I figured that would be the case. Just wanted to make sure that it worked for you without any issues. Now I will feel better about trying it myself.

Thanks Wez, Jeff

Wez, I have been thinking of making a similar bridge using those Graph Tech Wilkinson saddles myself and I thought I would check with you first about your use of those saddles.

First of all, I don't own a Wilkinson trem but from what I've seen of the pictures and diagrams the base plate has little recess's for the height adjusters of the saddles to rest in. This would seem to help keep the saddle from rotating on the allen head bolt while bending a string. On a homemade bridge without these recess's I would imagine that if the saddles were right next to each other there wouldn't be much if any movement but if slightly spaced it seems there could be movement while bending strings. I know the saddles don't move on my 7 string neck through baritone with the strings through the body but it's a regular strat type bridge with the shorter and wider saddles resting side by side.

Did you have any issues with the saddles while bending strings? As always, you do fantastic work and I look forward to more of your builds.

Thanks, Jeff

I only spray water based paint in my basement so if I wan't to use a 2 part clear over my finish I use SprayMax 2k cans and I pick a nice day to spray outside. It would be nice to have a proper spray area for year round use where I could spray anything. My spray booth is a box fan with a filter attached to it with a wood frame and clear plastic. It folds up so I can get it out of the way when I don't need it. I want to build a frame for the fan so that I can drop in a new filter without having to go tape crazy to seal everything off.

My spray booth http://www.flickr.com/photos/18783498@N07/2857738726/

I had the same problem on my Cocobolo 27.5" scale fretboard from LMI using Stew Mac fretwire. However, it only happened on the treble side of the last 5 or 6 frets. I haven't had problems with any of the other five guitar's I've built using Stew Mac fretwire. Sometimes I hammer the frets in but I usually press them in and on the 27.5 board they were hammered in. I either didn't over bend the radius of the fretwire or I messed up the radius of the fretboard a bit on the treble side.

Great work! I think I will make one myself based on how you did it.

Thanks,

Jeff

How about an online source like http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m400-3.aspx or http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/

That being said, I got mine from a Sherwin Williams Automotive Paint store locally. Maybe there is one near you.

Good luck,

Jeff

I don't have any experience with this but I did see a good pic story on installing the Graph Tech stuff on a seven string Ibanez RG7321 without a pickguard. He drilled into his fixed bridge to route the piezo wires and it looks really clean to me. Here is the link, http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/the-seven...zo-install.html

Good Luck,

Jeff

I also added a piece of Maple to the neck heel of a PRS style guitar that I made and it works fine. The thickness of the extended heel is 3/4" and goes all of the way into the humbucker route.

Jeff

When I glue a fretboard to the neck I use a bunch of C clamps and Irwin Quick Clamps to hold it secure. I also use cork under the C clamps so they don't mess up the fretboard or the bottom of the neck. I drill a small hole between a fret slot at the upper and lower part of the fretboard and install temp locating pins (paper clips) to keep the fretboard from sliding around during the clamping process.

There is a picture in Melvin Hiscock's book "Make Your Own Electric Guitar" of a fretboard being glued to a neck using a bunch of clamps. That's basically what mine look like also. Stew Mac makes an 18" aluminum radius sanding block that can be used to help distribute the pressure more evenly during glue up. However, it is fairly expensive so you could go with 2 of Stew Mac's 8" wooden radius sanding blocks for much less money or make your own. However, I haven't had any problems with using the clamps only.

Good Luck,

Jeff