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toddler68

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Posts posted by toddler68

  1. Jer,

    Thanks for the feedback. Well, I've had to re-make the frame because the old one (which was not the original) was falling apart and the cloth (also not original) was attached very poorly with staples and not stretched properly. So, I don't really have a good example to go by.

    My question is, exactly how was the original grill cloth attached at the factory? Or better yet, what's the generally-accepted method of attachment these days? Is any kind of adhesive involved or just staples? Also, does it need to fold over to the back side (overlap) and get attached on the back or is it fine to attach to the outside edges?

    Thanks, Todd

  2. well i got some part a/b wood bleach yesterday at rockler. klean-strip i believe

    ill post pics and give you guys results when the woods bleached :D

    If I'm not mistaken, that's the same 2-part stuff I've used. It rocks! Don't bother with the single container stuff they sell at Woodcraft... it is worthless.

  3. If it were me, I'd buy a decent band saw first. If I'm not mistaken, Home Depot has a nice 14" Ridgid saw that hovers around $400 I think. Next is a drill press - a benchtop will do just fine for most guitar stuff. Then keep some of that money for when your Skil router craps out (which it likely will) and buy a nice Bosch or Porter Cable. As for the scroll saw, I have one but since I got my band saw I quit using it.

    Just my $.02...

  4. I recently bought a B-52 AT-100 head (which I absolutely love) after reading some reviews on harmonycentral. However, I also read that the stock tubes will likely croak after about 6 months and I wanted to have a replacent set ready if/when that happens. I wondered if anyone here would recommend any particular brand over another.

    I play mainly METAL, so I'd prefer something that would lend itself to that style. Any recommendations on power tubes and preamp tubes would be appreciated. Also, If any of you have any firsthand knowledge of this head and would like to share your thoughts, I'd really like to hear what you've got to say. Feel free to reply to this or PM me.

    Oh, and do any of you amp gurus have a favorite amp mod website? I thought I might pose these questions in an amp-specific forum.

    Thanks, Todd

  5. Seriously, for a hardwood that's not too wide (how big's the cavity, is the question?) 2-3mm is plenty thick. Besides, you can always sand it thin, and add a lamiante or two (odd numbers of lams for stability, look at how plywood is put together) to make up for any thickness/stiffness issues.
    Yeah, what Mattia said.

    That's exactly what I have done on both my guitars. Just gluing a thin veneer on the backside of the cover will give you tons of added strength.

  6. You could try wood bleach if you want to lighten the wood a bit. It's something I've been wanting to try myself... when I find the right piece of walnut. Anyway, lighter wood might give you a broader range of colors to choose from. I remember seeing someone on this forum (Drak maybe) who bleached a walnut top and then did some kind of transparent reddish burst. It was very cool. Anyone remember that? I tried a quick search with no success...

    Found it. It was Drak... a GOTM entry by the name of "Bones". Unfortunately, the links to the pics are not showing up for me anymore. Here's the link anyway: Drak's "Bones" GOTM entry

    You could PM Drak yourself if you wanted some pics... or guidance.

  7. You could try wood bleach if you want to lighten the wood a bit. It's something I've been wanting to try myself... when I find the right piece of walnut. Anyway, lighter wood might give you a broader range of colors to choose from. I remember seeing someone on this forum (Drak maybe) who bleached a walnut top and then did some kind of transparent reddish burst. It was very cool. Anyone remember that? I tried a quick search with no success...

  8. The first (and only) time I sprayed lacquer without a respirator, I got a nasty headspin. Just brain cells I'll never get back - and I was already running low.:D

    Never again. I am truly amazed at how well those things really work. When it's working properly, you can't smell a thing! I even use one when I'm fitting PVC pipe together with that awful primer and cement.

  9. one of the coolest Ive ever seen...

    seriously wondering where you got that burl

    I'd like to tell you I scoured the globe looking for that perfect piece... but alas, I only scoured eBay for a couple days - seriously, eBay. I wish I could remember the guy I bought it from. I don't think it was one of the usual suspects. What I do remember is paying $125 for it. :D

  10. I'm finally done and I've already entered GOTM. This thing took forever (nearly 2 years) but I'm really happy with how it turned out.

    Here are the specs:

    Maple/Purpleheart/Walnut laminated neck

    26 fret Rosewood fretboard

    Graphite nut

    Mahogany wings with carved purple stained burl cap and faux binding

    Carved back

    Purpleheart pickup rings with creme DiMarzio Evolutions

    XBridge Piezo Tremelo

    Sperzel tuners

    Hand-rubbed nitro finish

    Enjoy!

    pic3.jpg

    back

    back closeup

    body front

    front closeup

  11. To restate, does anyone know a way to stop the marring, or the slight indentation, caused by a router bearing?

    Yeah, I've had that. I usually ignore it because I end up spindle sanding the body profile anyway. I should really replace all the bearings on my router bits just to be safe. I had a similar issue when the set screw for the bearing collar stuck out farther than the bearing. Just take a Dremel and grind down the set screw a tad. (The side opposite the hex key :D )

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