toddler68

Thanks for the info, toddler, I'm working on the plans as I write this.  If you don't mind, the measurements from your nut and bridge end of the fingerboard would be a great help.

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OK. Located the Mockingbird neck tonight. Width at the nut is 1.680 inches. Width at the 24th fret is 2.265 inches. Hope this helps

Just a couple weeks ago, I let a relative 'borrow' my GOTM to show a bandmate of his -a reasonable enough request I thought, since he's a responsible father of two in his fifties and a medical professional. He said I could pick it up the next day at his office -that he'd have it in his TRUNK!!! What??! I said. It's the middle of June and you're going to leave a glued-together comglomerate of oil and tempermental wood in your steaming-hot trunk all day? I don't think so. At least treat it like you would your dog. Don't leave it in a hot car. Go figure, he's a horn player... at least he told me before he actually did it.

So, I get the thing back the next day (fortunately) and I go to play it that night and the action seemed a little high. Turns out this 'bandmate' of his had taken the opportunity to re-tune it. I guess he wondered why it was tuned so low and cranked it up from B-to-B to standard!!! I don't even know if that was enough to do any damage, but I freaked nonetheless. That's the last time I let it out of my possession! I hope I am mentally able to cut the cord when I deliver on my first paid job.

I got this message:

The error returned was:

Sorry, the link that brought you to this page seems to be out of date or broken.

Toddler, maybe you can link to it because the page is still in your browsers cache.

Pete

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That must be it. I told you, I'm not very bright.

It's just a link to another thread on this forum. Don't I just copy from the address bar of the page I want to link to, hit the 'http://' button up there and paste the link?

Here it is again: Moderne thread again

You're an industrial designer, right?

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Toddler, your link is broken already

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Really? Hmm. I'm linking just fine. Is anyone else having a problem? I'm an ignoramus when it comes to this here 'inner net' thingy.

I posted that link a while back...

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Damn! I knew I should have done a search before I posted

It might work with a small HP router to do little parts, but I wouldnt think it would work for general luthier related routing.

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Yeah, I'd probably mainly use it for doing my rebates for carved tops... or flattening the surfaces before I glue tops on.

I personally like the Wave and the Boomerang, but the Boomering seems a bit off proportionally.

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I agree. Neither the Wave nor the Boomerang bother me as much as the original. It has been featured in articles and design mag covers for a couple years now. I just don't see what all the fuss is about.

Found this article on how to make an overarm pin router. Enjoy!

Overarm pin router

i don't really see what's exotic about the C1 exotic.  it's got a mahogany body and a maple top just like the rest of the C1 series.  it's just flamed with a natural finish instead of quilted and dyed.

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If it's in the Diamond Series like my 006, I think they are maple veneered. The exotics are actually thick carved maple tops. I know for a fact that my 006 is veneered - the adhesive failed and the veneer actually pulled away from the body.

There are some interesting explorations from a technical standpoint, but IMHO the execution of the basic aesthetics is hideous! <insert 'vomit' icon here>

To me it's like 'edge' design gone bad... like someone forgot to sand it. The surfaces are clumsily faceted and just don't flow. What really bothers me is that an industrial designer came up with the design.

One benefit however is that it is built kind of like a stealth bomber, so it probably has a very low radar cross-section!

Has anyone seen these?

RKS guitars

What is your honest opinion of their design?

Thanks for the info, toddler, I'm working on the plans as I write this.  If you don't mind, the measurements from your nut and bridge end of the fingerboard would be a great help.

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Just wanted to clarify your use of the word 'stripes'. Understand that these carbon fiber rods are for added stiffness and are buried in a routed channel within the neck, not used as a visible laminate

No, they are not mandatory but if you're going to the trouble of constructing your own neck, it's well worth the peace of mind. I have them in both my scratch-built necks.

Here are a couple sources:

LMI

Stew-Mac

By the way, welcome to the forum!

Hey Albertop, I'm not really a big fan of teles but you may have just turned me! That thing is the quintessential example of simplicity -super clean and well executed. Damn fine instrument. I think it was the awesome custom scratchplate that did it for me. That and maybe some subconscious points for your previous submission -the SG. Keep up the great work.

Do you simply want a color change or are you looking for the natural wood look?

If you just want to change the color, I wouldn't strip it. It makes more sense to paint right over the existing factory finish.

Side note: should we be worried about posting original designs up here? Esp if we have any intention at all of trying to make a living with an original design? (pipe dreams and all)

Is there a way to protect a body design? I assume so since Gibson went after PRs . . what a crock.

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You can get a design patent. I think it covers just the aesthetic aspects of your concept. Not sure what costs are involved in filing such a patent, tho. It's still a good idea even if you don't become a luthier -if it's original enough, others may want to license your design $$$

Yeah, the LP shape has been in the public domain for so... I guess Gibson just has better lawyers.

Yeah, a neck-through is tricky. You will have to know what thickness you want to achieve in the end before you start -it's tough to plane things down after they're all assembled and glued. If you haven't already done so, a detailed side drawing should be your first order of business. That way you can layout your neck angle (if any), string height above the body, bridge and nut heights... all that stuff is critical to understand before you ever cut a piece of wood.

Use the search feature too. There's loads of stuff about all these issues.

I have an old NJ bolt-on Mockingbird (in pieces ). I don't know if the neck specs will be the same as the neck-through but I can probably get widths at the nut and 24th fret if you want.

No offense, but you shouldnt be ashamed slugtrial beat you in volume and skill. They look double your age!

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Double?!! They look more like TRIPLE. What's that at stage left -a walker?

The singer looks like Kirk from Crowbar

My first gig was at a bar called the Trophy in Glenn's Ferry, Idaho. They don't take too kindly to the "heavier musical stylings" at the Trophy if you know what I mean. I consider it a miracle that we all walked out of there that night without getting stabbed!

Hey sexybeast, I couldn't interest you in taking this on could I?

Moderne drawing

That's almost exactly how I would do it. Although, I'd probably use 1 continuous curve using the pen tool. If you drag each point, it gives you these little handles to adjust the curvature of your line. You can move the points around and change the shape until it fits around your pic. Under the flyout of the pen tool, there is an add point tool (looks like a pen with a + sign) to put additional points on your curve if you need to.

Another tip that works for me is to use Object>Path>Simplify and drag the curve precision slider around to 'smooth out' shapes. It's also nice to experiment with to get weird free-form body outlines.

Man, no way! You still have access at school don't you? Where there's a will, there's a way. <in old grandpa voice>

Well if it does have to be a year, you'd better have 20 new guitars to show off when you're back online

Mockingbirds... ah, my favorite of the pointies! It has to be the coolest shape around. A truly successful mix of round and pointy.

Excellent work RaMaN!

Deft is lacquer, right? From what I've heard, lacquer can take many months to fully cure. A few years back, I sprayed an old guitar with regular automotive lacquer and I swear it took 2 full years until I couldn't dent it with my fingernail.

Then, I accidentally dropped it onto a concrete floor!

Since I finished my first guitar, I have begun to rethink the finish. Mostly because I've dinged the hell out of it and want something more durable. Common sense is telling me that I can't spray poly straight onto the Tru-Oil and that I'll probably need a buffer layer first -shellac most likely. Is this accurate?

OMG, THG rawks!!!