deeboy

I have an Ibanez that is a s-s-h configuration and I want to change my single coil pickups. Does the middle pickup need to be reverse wound?

I have used both liquid epoxy and putty epoxy. Putty epoxy works better because you can mold it better. This is useful when filling dings in the corners or contours. The putty epoxy that I recommend is Quickwood. You can find it in Home Depot. It is easy to use, shrinks less and sands well.

I am thinking about using white primer as a layer of "color" in a pattern that I am using. Is it possible to v

clear coat directly over it.

Looks awesome!! Very impressive for a first time. Did you use spray cans or airbrush? Can you offer any tips on how you painted the black burst?

try bondo.. I've heard that bondo does wonders w/ refinishing guitars as opposed to epoxy, b/c epoxy when it is drying it tends to settle and run.. bondo will take care of that. you can find it at any automotive parts store

i hear bondo will loosen and fall out on wood

Never heard that before, stuff doesn't fall out of cars going down bumpy roads. Never had a problem with it.

Then again...anybody have any wooden cars

I ended up using liquid epoxy for surface dings and Quickwood for dents on the edges. Let's see how it holds us to reranch spray cans.

I am in the process of refinishing a guitar. I stripped the old paint off and I am down to a poly sealer. I filled most of the surface dings with liquid epoxy but I am having problems filling dings that are on the edges/corners between the front and side of the guitar. Should I try a putty type epoxy so I am able to mold an edge better? If so...any recommendations as to what brand? I plan on painting the guitar a solid color.

I am looking to paint "hot rod" style flames on a guitar body. I was wondering on how I should handle the masking of the flame.

Should I:

1- Prime the body, outline the flame shape with tape then mask the inner portion of the flame with tape and apply color to the rest of the body. If this happens, I would have to then unmask the inner portion of the flame, mask the rest of the body and then color the flame.

2- Prime the entire body. Then put my first layer of color over entire guitar. Once that has cured. One layer of clear, then allow that to cure then outline my flames and mask rest of body. Then I would shoot the flame color.

Which way is better and how long to allow for total cure? I don't want lines to appear in my color coats from masking.

I recently stripped off the finish of a guitar body using a heat gun. I was fortunate enough to get down to the sanding sealer. I need to repair some dents and cracks with bondo. Do I need to seal over it before I prime or can I just sand everything smooth w/ 320 grit and prime over it?

If I apply primer over a sanding sealer, can I use duplicolor or plastikote paints? I am looking to finish a guitar in a Silver finish and add flames in either duplicolor mirage or Plastikote Kustome effex. I emailed the tech dept at duplicolor and he thought I might run into problems with the sanding sealer because it was made for polyurethane paints and not laquers.

I am embarking on my first refinishing project soon. I plan on priming and using either duplicolor or plasti-kote spray cans to finish the body in my garage. I live in NY and the temperature is dropping day by day. The good thing (I think) is that as the winter approaches, there will be less humidity in the air. Is it safe to prime, paint, clear, and allow to dry in my garage? Am I better off spraying in my garage and bringing it indoors to dry or should I wait till the Spring to avoid potential laquer cracking issues?

Take a look at the picture of this neck pocket.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff155/d...ra/IMG_0555.jpg

Should I be looking for Tele or Strat replacement neck based on the curves in the neck pocket?

Hi-

I am attempting my first refinishing project over the next couple of months. I just picked up a Fernandes Dragonfly body on ebay and I am looking to replace the neck and bridge. From my understanding, the seller indicated that the neck that was previously on the guitar was a standard 22 fret neck. I am not really sure what a "standard" neck was so I asked him if he knew the scale length....no response. On the Fernandes website all 2007 Dragonflys have 24 fret necks. I believe my body is from 1990's (stamp at neck joint is #90110). I searched online for old Fernandes catalogs and couldn't find any. I noticed on Harmony Central that Fernandes had 22 fret necks on the Dragonfly in the 90's. So I am pretty sure that the seller was correct in saying that it was a 22 fret neck. Anyway....will a tele neck work? I noticed that the neck pocket on my body seems to have a right angle on the left side and a more curved angle on the right side. From my understanding, teles have rounded necks at the pocket. I am note sure if the right angle on one side and curved on the other is propeitary to Fernandes or if I am just a newbie who is looking at it wrong. My main concern is getting a neck that 1) doesn't fit the pocket properly and or 2) is the wrong scale length and I will have to move the bridge. Any and all opinions, options, suggestions are welcome. I am looking forward to this project.