Captainstrat

I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but here goes: on my current build, I have zero fret buzz, rattle or note outs, I think the frets are properly level, but some are rough (me thinks the seller went too Gung Ho with the Dremmel tool to relic the neck), string bending feels like I'm bending over a rasp!

Full fret level/crowning/polish, crown and polish or just polish? 

I have a fretboard straightedge, 9.5" radiused blocks, a diamond fret leveler, multiple grades of sandpaper and a crowning file/fretboard protector being delivered today...oh yeah, and a sharpie and plenty of masking tape...

There was a YouTube tutorial of a luthier using a diamond fret leveler to level his frets; but I can't find it anymore!  Do i need to do a full fret job, or is just a polishing enough?

oh, and here's a pic of my DIY beauties  

10 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Reversed hot and ground in the jack? That's common.

I tip my hat to you: that was EXACTLY the problem!  I bought the control plate prewired (including the output jack) and I expected it to be properly wired...anyway, problem fixed, next will be dressing and polishing the frets  

Then again, after reading more on the topic (buzz when touching the strings & metal parts, very low when not touching) perhaps Prostheta is right on the money - the prewired Tele plate might have had the jack wired in reverse...damn those factory workers  I never would have thought I'd still get a guitar signal if the jack is wired in reverse!

1 hour ago, curtisa said:

Make sure it is the bridge ground that is causing the issue. Take a piece of scrap wire and strip both ends of it to expose the strands. Attach one end to the outer metal shell of your guitar lead and wrap the other end around one or more of the strings. If the buzz goes away when you plug in and touch the strings, your bridge ground is making poor contact. If the buzz remains, you'll need to look start looking elsewhere for the problem.

I'll give that a try, though when I touch the strings and the jack's outer casing the hum does go away (I become the ground?) I swear the damn bridge plate doesn't sit flat on the guitar surface; it's like the pressure from the screws pushes the back down and slightly raises the front part (with the pickup) up...frustrating

looks like I'm not the only one with a similar problem:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/bridge-base-plate-doesnt-lay-flat-help-suggestions.920644/

looks like a strategically placed screw at the front of the bridge plate might sole the problem 

6 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

If you're having trouble getting the bridge wire to make good connection with the bridge plate, crimp on a solder tag and loop it under one of the bridge screws. You might need to mash it into the body a little to prevent it from holding the bridge off the body.

great idea!  

6 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Reversed hot and ground in the jack? That's common.

Nope, I'm getting pickup signal, with a hum that shouldn't be there.  My Squier with cheap single coils is quieter in comparison!

replaced the bridge plate ground wire with a thicker wire, still getting buzz...looks like the bridge plate isn't resting perfectly flat on the guitar body?  Mystery needing solving...

Got a second email notice that the strap locks were also delivered  I'll be busy when I get home from work!

2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Good to hear. It's about this point that any bugs start to show themselves.

Indeed, first bug - the bridge ground seems to be loose.  The pickups are hum cancelling and should have zero noise; they were dead quiet in the Squier.  The noise level seems to indicate that the bridge plate isn't making contact with the ground wire; so I'll have to loosen the strings, remove the bridge and look underneath...oh and I just got a delivery notice from Canada Post, they say the ferrules/string guite parcel has been delivered!  

Okay, string alignment better than I thought!  adjusted the truss rod, set the intonation, lowered pickup height and string height - no fret buzz, looks like the fretwork was better than anticipated, a few frets might need crowning and polishing but no "note outs". I'm getting there my friends!  

7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Looking good

Ref the bridge position - is that already fixed?  If so, it might be a better route to just tweak the left/right neck angle a touch.

 If it was me, I wouldn't worry about waiting for the ferrules - I would pop a top E  and bottom E on normally and just tighten enough for them to be straight.  I would then loosen the neck screws a touch and pull the neck towards the bass side - because of the length of the neck, the impact of tiny movements make a big difference to the string position at the upper frets.  If I could comfortably reach even string spacing this way, I would just hold the sideways pressure while I retighten the screws.  If not, I would just relieve the neck pocket a teeny bit (really talking teeny, teeny, hand sand with a nail-file emery board) at the relevant places and try again.

Lining up a neck this way is pretty routine for bolt on or set necks - it is very rare that a neck will be smack on straight first time.

Anyway, that's what I would personally do if the bridge is in the correct position.  Hope this helps

Yep, i realized after the fact the my bridge is a dual load (works as either top or string through), so I strung her up...broke the top E string at the tuning post (I'm really starting to hate the  vintage-style Klusons)  but at a glance it looks properly aligned

Progress report - took a chance with the rubber depth stops - no drill through yay! I used a hand drill as opposed to a power drill, to have full control of the drill bit..extra work but it paid off.  Did a bit of cussing installing the tuning pegs... but it seems to be holding. I'm still awaiting the ferrules and string retainer from Guitarfetish as well as the strap locks.

I might need to slightly shift the bridge so the strings align properly, the "string test I performed last evening showed that the strings would be too close to the treble side, I'll be able to double-check once the ferrules are installed and I can string it for the first time!

And once that's all done...fret dress!

On 2/8/2018 at 9:38 AM, ScottR said:

Hope it works out well for you. I'll pass on our most repeated words of advice: Test on scrap!

Let us know how it works out for you.

SR

Say, what's our opinion on rubber depth stops for drill bits?

Okay here's a neck fitting. The neck pocket is nice and tight. I drilled shallow pilot holes, which I'll enlarge and drill to the appropriate depth later. Somehow, the holes don't seem to be evenly spaced from the center of the neck's skunk stripe, but I can't move it any farther left or right, and it seems to be properly centered on the photo...

9 hours ago, Prostheta said:

 

How about another vote from me? 

 why not?   I'd ordered that decal because the large knot bothered me, and lo and behold, it's just the perfect size  agreed, I'd much prefer a natural look, but the knot is an eyesore in my opinion, whereas Bettie is eye candy  

1 hour ago, curtisa said:

Then I reckon you'd want to use a 9/64" or 3.5mm pilot hole. 1/8" is probably going to be pretty tight, 5/32" probably won't hold the screw. Give it a go in scrap timber first to see what difference it makes.

Oddly enough, the 9/64" drill bit was the one I figured I'd be using!   I have a few pieces of scrap pine I can practice on

7 hours ago, curtisa said:

That depends on the size screw you're using. Don't forget that driving a screw into a neck isn't proprietary function solely owned by the guitar world. It's an operation that's employed by anyone wanting to secure two pieces of wood together.

If I ever need to quickly determine the correct size of a pilot hole, I'll just grab a piece of scrap timber and drill a test hole into it. If the screw falls out of the hole or offers nearly no resistance to being driven in, the pilot hole is too large. If the screw starts binding or getting so stiff that it becomes difficult to drive in by hand, the pilot hole is too small. You can usually speed up the pre-selection of your pilot hole by eyeballing the drill bit against the screw - the drill bit diameter should be just a fraction smaller than the outer diameter of the screw threads.

I personally wouldn't use lubrication to help a screw into a tight hole, unless the material I was driving it into was particularly hard or the screws were particularly fragile.

 

I would think that is the way most people would drill the neck screws. The holes are already in the body - use them as your drilling template.

According to my calipers, the screws are 5/32" in diameter

Just now, Prostheta said:

Always with Bettie Page. Always.

Votes one for, one against, need a tie breaker

4 hours ago, mistermikev said:

also, where are my mannors: sweet tele.  Some pretty pine.  no sticker is my vote. 

Thanks!

Is there a difference between digital calipers and a micrometer?  At any rate, after reading up on how to properly use it, I measured the neck screws (the portion clearing the neck pocket) the neck thickness (looks like I have 3.53 mm of wood to the surface of the fingerboard).

I also measured a drill bit and temporarily marked it with masking tape; the collar with set screw sound much more reliable, so I'll wait!

As I await delivery of the rest of the parts, i made use of my digital calipers.  I'm a noob, so after looking up how to properly measure the length of the necks screws clearing the neck pocket; I got a 20.67 mm measurement; which is in the ballpark of the 20.225 mm measurement I'd found on Telecaster Forums. 

I also measure the heel thickness, which is 24.02 mm on the sides.  Since the necks have a radius, I figured I'd err on the side of caution and measure the heel where it's a bit thinner (rather than from the middle at the top of the radius). Which should leave me with enough clearance not to have an accident and drill right through the fingerboard (as it happened to me in the past). 

According to the telecaster Forum, a drill bit slightly larger than 1/8" (9/64" or even 5/32) is preferable as it makes the screw thread easier.  I might apply a bit of paste wax on the threads too.

Since I don't have any fancy jigs, I might start pilot holes using the neck pocket itself as a drilling jig, using one of my trusty Mastercraft clamps (which are rubber padded) drilling only the surface of the heel.  Then, measure the drill bit and using a collar with set screw as a depth guide, finish drilling the holes... 

Okay, ordered a set of vintage style ferrules and a vintage style string guide from Guitarfetish, and (why not) a pack of 3 sets of strap locks, one chrome (for my thinline PRS), one gole (for my home built DC Les Paul) and one black which I can use on my MIM Strat...I've spend all that money on those axes, might as well keep 'em safe right?  ';)  I'd already ordered a set of strap locks for my Telecaster build but what the hell, let's protect my investment on all of 'em!

Sooo...after waiting over a month, the ferrules are finally delivered and they're the wrong size , too long and too narrow.  Looks like it;s Guitarfetish time, for the right sized ferrules...more waiting 

7 hours ago, ScottR said:

You could use a micrometer for the measurement and use a collar with a set screw as a depth stop on your bit.

SR

Cool, found a digital micrometer locally, ordered a set of collars with set screw from Amazon... work in progress, thanks!