Dickie_rayne

The Z1 LP

First time ive entered this so here go's

1 piece english walnut top

brazilian mahogany wings and a 5 piece mahogany and maple neck.

cream binding and pickup rings.

sperzel locking tuners.

ebony compensated nut.

wenge fretboard with custom Z inlay.

gotoh hardware.

hand made pickups.

wooden cavity covers held in place by magnets

all topped off with an oil and wax finish.

thanks

Dickie

Well I've just knocked up a quick CAD of a 12" - I am specifying the cutting blade length as 50mm (i.e from tip to shank) - this should be sufficient for even 8 strings as it would radius a blank of 100mm wide. Or would people prefer it longer say 60mm?

Let me know on that score.

Im based in the uk as well and i would definately be interested in a few of them mainly a 12 16 and 20.

if you need anyone to test other radius's out let me know.

Hi

Ive recently bought a load of flamed maple from canada and ive a few sets surplus to requirements.

theyre on ebay at the moment.

(i have some more to list)

ive wiped them down with some water thats all

Here are the links

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=280285485716

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=280285486561

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=280285487156

Cheers

Dickie

i worked at fylde guitars for quite a while and the finish was allways sanded with compressed air palm sanders.

if you want to see if it affects the finish or not look ob the fylde website.

like glass every time.

Dickie

it was just wierd as im used to making right handed guitars and evrything was back to front i had

to check check and tripple check every time i did something lol.

heres one just for the sake of it.

Yeah there was a number of times i had to take a step back and get the plans out just to make sure.

everything allways looked wrong

ok

ive been building guitars for 4 or 5 years now as well as spending 3 years at fylde guitars,

but this is the first left handed guitar ive done and man was it confusing.

(the pictures were taken by the customer not me so excuse the backgrounds)

27 jumbo frets on a rosewood fretboard with a mop teardrop at the 12th fret (it needs a clean).

Quilt maple top with a 5 piece (flamed maple wenge oak wenge flamed maple) neck

The headstock has been scarfed to add strength to the vunerable bits and the body is 1 inch thick mahogany

to keep it light as the customer is quite petit.

The covers are rosewood and the hardware is gotoh and schaller.

there are some rosewood pickup rings in the works but im in the process of moving workshop atm so they are on the waiting list.

lemmi know what you think.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar012.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...01/untitled.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar008.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar007.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar006.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar002.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar003.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g234/bla...1/guitar001.jpg

Dickie

it will be a 16" radius

all rgs are 16" radius and the edge 3 is only for the higher end korean guitars.

the 2 edge 3 trems ive used were both 16"

the jem and universe are the only ones to my knowledge (appart from possibly the 8 string) that have an

18 or 20" radius.

hope this helps

Dickie

just wondering did you use the usual carve method of an angle grinder or did you use another method?

A 1/3rd of the way down the page there are some here

£17.50 PER SET TWO PRONG FIXING 3X3 MACHINEHEADS

Looks good, but I'm lookig for 6-in-line, 2 Prong.

keep scrolling down there are some more further down

The Fender Ones for £56.00? Too Costly.

The "Fender® engraved Schaller® inline chrome string tuners" are a bit too Stocky.

Other Sellers than Axesrus?

they sell 6in a line for 20 quid ish ive bought 2 sets from them

A 1/3rd of the way down the page there are some here

£17.50 PER SET TWO PRONG FIXING 3X3 MACHINEHEADS

Looks good, but I'm lookig for 6-in-line, 2 Prong.

keep scrolling down there are some more further down

If you do find anywhere letme know ive been looking for somewhere for ages.

just doesnt seem to be an option to buy small scale amounts of templates they

all want you to buy three million or something (im exadurating)

good luck anyhow

Im trying to refinish a strat using the how to paint your guitar book from www.paintyourownguitar.com, Ive wet sanded the clear with 1500 grit paper and now i need to apply 3M Perfect-It Finishing Compound to complete the project, Only problem is that i dont know where to purchase it within the UK.

Does anyone happen to know where i can get some, If not, could you recommend what product to use instead of the 3M stuff.

Cheers

i get mine from ebay.

if you cant find a panel factors near you try ebay.

if your still stuck i can send you some for cost

lets see some progress then!!!

il post it when its a bit further along the guy keep schanging his mind ive allready had to re scarf the neck and change the fretboard.

Dont you jsut hate musicians sometimes lol

sorry about that

lol no problem

that maple that i got for the explorer is looking really nice .

its being stained black so you cant even see the colour diference down the middle

its a definate possibility but if the weather stays like it is i wont have to!!

Dam you wez

it was all nice and then you open your mouth and we get p****d on all day.

sods law.

build is looking great btw.

Dickie

I've started on the 7 string version. This one will have the same body shape, 27.5" scale, bubinga top, the neck is something I found called monterillo (I think it's a rosewood, can't find anything about it, looks cool though) with a cocobolo fretboard. I screwed up on the fretboard, I nearly sanded the fret slots out. I don't want to take the binding off to fix it, so I'm searching for a good way to re do the slots, any help?

stew mac sell a little saw for doing jsut that but i made my own.

get a micro saw or a gents saw and using a dremel cut all of the blade off down to the spine of the blade appart from the last inch.

you should end up with a long handle with an inch long saw on the tip.

you can use this to deepen the frett slots.

heres the link to the stewmac one.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...Refret_Saw.html

you should be able to get a gent saw for about a quarter of that price and you will end up with exactly the same tool.

Dickie

Ive taken 4 or 5 ibanez fretboards off with the tutorial on the pg homepage.

ive found the ibanez boards come off faster than other makes i usually get one

free within about half an hour.

i use a thin knife to start it with then a wallpaper scraper thats been sanded and

polished to about 1500.

comes off really easy.

the builds looking great.

thanks for the pointer on where to scource it.

just looking for something a bit unusual to use.

does anyone know of a supplier of the flamed blackwood in the uk ?

It may just be me but the tail stop looks a little close to the saddles to me.

could be wrong tho

looks like you need to angle the neck as well (someone else pointed that out)

hope this helps

yeah

dam right

followed the progress on youtube

would really like to see more info on this build

Cheers

hi

has anyone used rustins plastic coating on a fretboard?

is it comparable to standard laquer for protecting maple etc?

ive used it before on bidies and necks.

Thanks

hmm maybe

neckthrough acyrlic would defiantely look sweet

hmm , well ill look into it =]

thanks for the input

Go to http://www.crimsonguitars.com/page104.html

ben has built 2 or 3 of these bases and a lespaul from perspex.

really helpfull guy and check out his diary section too.

Alright thanks for that info. Now i took out the wood on top of the truss rod. The truss rod cavity and the truss rod are concave (theyre shaped like the bottom of an M&M rather than the top) which I believe would mean that tightening the truss rod would actually cause the neck to bow down more rather than compensate for the tension of the string. non-bolt end of the truss rod is flat rather than a barrel shape. Should I just flip the rod over and drill into the cavity where the adjustment bolt is (so that it can thread onto the remaining threads on the truss rod) and so that it compensates for bow rather than adding to it, or should I get a new truss rod and rout the nut end cavity so that the barrel-shaped anchor nut of the new truss can fit? I'm not sure if a new truss rod would fix the problem or just also bend down and increase bow when tightened.

Thanks alot.

Wolfgang

Id say seen as you have it out anyhow replace it with a modern 2 way trussrod

they dont cost a lot and it will be a dam sight better